CEB1590SS1SS General Electric Microwave - Instructions

Another company said the new plate would arrive in mid-March, this company seemed to be faster so ordered the tray here, and it came in less than a week. I put the turn button back in the center hole, set the wheeled ring on the bottom of the oven, fitted the new glass tray onto the turn button.

-unplug
-remove top and front covers
-unplug wire connectors from heating assembly
-remove heating assembly from metal stand and push out of the way
-remove metal stand from dry
-pull out heating assembly
-install new one in reserve order

First order the assembly which includes the smart board and new touch pad. as for the actual replacement un-plug the power cord of the unit. and move to a work bench or suitable counter to work on. Remove the outside cover about 8 screws. turn the unit so you can easily access the control board. Carefully note the connectors on the board. (hint take a photo if needed to remember the locations of all slip on connectors.) Remove all connectors. press the door open switch on the old board assembly. with the door open on the outside slip the control assembly upwards about a 1/2" and the board will come loose from the unit. with the door open install the new board in the same slots that the other board came from noting that the door opening plastic arm is in the correct position and the slots are aligned. press the assembly down. make sure the door closes correctly and all looks to be in the correct location. re-attache the connectors. Now double check the door operation. now carefully plug back in the power and check the board operation the first thing all lights will come on and after 30 seconds or so you will get a prompt to set the clock. Check that you can set the time of day. If not un-plug and check all connection again. If the board does not respond un-plug the power cord, with the power disconnected check the power fuse on the voltage regulator board ( gray fuse about 1-1/4" long ). if the fuse is bad replace. This should be checked before ordering the assembly. if the fuse is good and the new board does not respond the board is bad. (This happened to me and the first board I ordered. the second board was fine). un-plug the power cord and reinstall the outside cover.

Went on Youtube and pulled up how to fix a microwave.

remov cover to check voltage and found problem at the interlock switch ohm the switch and found it was open replace both switches it work fine now

With this model, you must remove the outer covering. Don't try to access the display unit from the front like I've seen in some other GE microwave videos. After removing the outer covering, the switches are easy to replace. They are very visible and easy to get to without taking any other parts off. You will see the door switches just behind the display board. Remove the switch and then remove the connecting wires to ensure you don't inadvertently brake a wire. You will need a tamper resistant star bit to remove 3 or 4 screws from the back panel. All other screws are philips head. I went ahead and replaced both switches (yes...there are two of them) and works like a charm. I saved an $800 microwave for less than $60 and know what to do if it happens again. Appears to be a common problem on this model. Thanks for others making a post...It saved me time and money reading others remarks. Good luck!

removed cover over motor blew it out of leaves and dust. Removes 4 screws and removed piece ordered. The coil was rusted and not connecting. Changed oiece its working again

Unscrewed the control panel (2 screws), lift up and let hang, with a plan screwdriver open bracket holding the switch, unplug 2 wires, replace with new switch, plug in the 2 wires, push switch back into bracket. Then slide on the control panel, put the 2 screws back. Easy fix.

Part just snapped into place and wires were reattached.

Phillips screws out of the side; torx screws out of the bottom/back and slide the cover off of the back. The light is not visible but not hard to find: on the top left side mounted on a black plastic base with 1 phillips screw & stud holds other side. You can tell what the base looks like from the new part. GE probably wants you to call them to make the $-ha. Stay clear of any capacitors (shock) or chips (short) & touch the chassis to ground or if a tech, wear a ground strap.

Removed cover
Disconnected capacitor from old magnetron
Removed old magnetron
Installed new part
Connected capacitor
Reinstalled cover

unplugged power
removed main black cover.
located part WB24X10047 and replaced

Took the plate out and replaced the old part with the new one. Worked immediately.

I first read where someone had the same problem. Their solution was a burned-out fuse. I ordered a new fuse...installed it and that did not solve my problem. I revisted PartSelect and read how Marla (from Arlington, TX)solved her problem. I purchased a secondary switch and when it arrived, I made a copy of Marla's instructions and followed them to the letter. I installed the new secondary switch into the secondary space, put everything back together and the oven STILL DID NOT WORK. I had to take the latching panel apart again and test each switch to see if there was another bad one. I found that the third switch was burned out. So I took the new switch out of the second slot and installed it into the third slot. I tested the switches before reinstalling the latching panel. This time everything worked. So I put everything back together, reinstalled the microwave on the wall, tested it again, and everything worked perfectly.

First I had to accept the fact that the unit was designed to keep non-professional people from doing any repairs. The switch was installed in such a manner that I had to break the mounting to remove the switch, then drill a hole in the mounting to secure the new switch in place.