CDT835SMJ2DS General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

took off 2 sheet metal on the bottom, lowered the dish washer, pulled it out enought to unscrew 2 screws, unplugged the old part plugged in the new, put it back together.
Works like a champ.

Bought replacement rack transferred all the accessories from the old to the new. Mostly snap-in-place.

Simply removed old gasket by hand, lined up center of new gasket (white dot was printed on the center of new gasket) with the tub latch and pressed new gasket into place. We have used the dishwasher about a dozen times since and hasn't leaked a drop.

Just snap part in position quick to do.

When new gasket arrived almost two weeks after it was sent out from Green Bay, I took out old gasket, marking which side was in and which out.
Then, with hands, fit new gasket in place making sure it was centered.
No leaking; it worked.
Thanks.

Pulled washer out of space to access cables to the door. Removed moved the cables by stretching springs and unhooking cable from door. Disconnected wire from door to machine in body of machine. Opened door an lifed on an angle that allowed door to be lifted out of hinges. Unscrew and remove hinges on both sides. Remove by simply pulling them straight in direction of the bottom of the door. Then unscrew bolts on either side that are now exposed after taking hinges out. Then push inside of door up and remove. Unscrew the control board unit. Un plug cable to control board. Remove bezel cover. Then carefully unsnap unit case and remove board. Replace with the new board. However since this is a replacement part it must be configured for your machine. Instructions shou you the configuration. However where I ran into a problem was dining out how to set it. There were no switches. What I learned was that altouch it looked like one piece the jumper connections actually were four separate pieces that were tightly fitted together. In order to get the configuration you simply have to lift the jumper connector up. Once done reverse process and your done. If I did not run into that one issue repair time should be 30 minutes tops.

The pump went out after a few months of very loud noise during the drain cycle and then one day no drain or noise. A bit of research shows that this pump goes out frequently on this model so I ordered a new pump after inspecting the old pump for a clog or snag on the rotors.

The Install:
After removing the dishwasher from it's installed location and turning it on it's side (unplug water and electric of course), I was able to remove the pump from the two lines that connected it to the dishwasher and the drain line. I also had to unplug the pump from an electric connection to the dishwasher. Swapping out the new pump was the same but in reverse. Not a hard install, only simple tools required.

One note, my electric connection to the dish washer was different on this model pump since they changed the original part but there is an adapter included with this part so make sure it is in the box and fits before beginning.

Unhook water line . Turn off power to dishwasher. Remove dishwasher from under counter. Lay it on its back. Loosen clamps on drain pump and remove pump. Install new drain pump and tighten clamps. Be sure to put hanger in the hole on the pump. Very easy job. Reinstall water line and put dishwasher back under counter. Turn on power to dishwasher. Go to go.

Bottom rack came complete with all racks. Only had to transfer the (2) side bumper guards,

Read up on part at manufacturers web page and installed replacement correctly.

The repair is easy for most if you have basic skills.

1. Cycle your unit to make sure all the water in the tub is emptied. (Start a cycle then cancel it which forces it to empty)

2. Turn off the power at the circuit/fuse panel & also turn off your water supply going to the unit which is usually under the sink with your sink plumbing.

3. Have a few old towels handy, there will be a little water but nothing that requires a wet shop vac, etc.

4. Remove the bottom kickplate (should be a screw on each side of the front of unit)

5. Disconnect the power supply wiring to make removal easier.

6. Disconnect the water supply line (have a towel handy there will be a little water in the supply line)

7. Unscrew the mounts either at the top and/or sides of the washer depending on the install method into your cabinetry.

8. Carefully slide out the unit.

9. Carefully turn the unit on its side or upside down depending on your preference to work on the underside where the pump is located. Again have a towel or two handy there will be some water that leaks out from the tub even after forcing an empty cycle.

10. The circulation pump is easy to remove. First plug the power line, there is a clip to disengage to separate the plug. A small flat screwdriver will help.

11. If this is a first time being replaced it will probably have crimp style hose clamps on the two lines coming off the pump. Again a small screwdriver will help pry it apart. Throw these away your pump kit will have new hose clamps for installation.

12. Once these clamps are removed you can slip the hoses off and the pump will be free to remove from the unit.

13. Installation is easy. Make sure the rubber hoses seal completely around the unit before clamping. Pay attention to make sure its sealed evenly, your unit will leak water otherwise once its functioning again.

14. My recommendation is to reassemble, slide the unit back into your cabinetry and hook your power and water supply up. Before you screw the unit back into place and close up the bottom panel, start a quick cycle. Within that first minute when the unit is filling and starting the circulation pump you can watch underneath and make sure your circulation pump lines are sealed and not leaking. Once satisfied, you can then stop the unit and finish securing the unit with mounting screws and closing up the bottom kickplate panel.

Good luck! You can do this :)

My granddaughter's fian'ce actially replaced the pump.
He pulled the dishwasher out, tipped it over and quickly and easily replaced the pump.
I had already snapped the converter on to the pump so it was ready to hook up. I had read previous messages that this part had a converter.
After putting the washer back in place we set it on a light wash to test it.
It went very well.

Looked upm the problem it said door wasn.t closed so cause was the door latch. put in the new one no change so I bought a new dishwasher

The only directions that came with the new pump and filter, was how to replace the filter. I had to find a You Tube video to show me where the drain pump was located., and the way to get to it. I also had to figure out how the new pump was hooked up electrically, since the new pump did not work with the plug in on the machine.

Due to the almost zero clearance between the recirculating pump and the floor, getting the pan to line up and engage the tabs on the dishwasher frame can seem to be an impossible task. I did accomplish the task as instructed in the owners installation manual once.

However, I observed that the leak was just a drop at a time only on the deep clean mode where water recycling was in constant use during a long wash cycle. So, I recommend to slide the pan in the relative position without trying to engage the tabs and you will still accomplish the reason for the leak pan. Remember, the purpose of the Leak Pan is to protect your floor, so use it the easy way as I am.