CDG4205AWJ Crosley Dryer - Instructions

Per instructions I printed off online: took off door, then the front panel. Pulled out the old switch/button, connected the new switch/button, made sure the new button was working; put the panel back on then the door and DONE!

Unplug the dryer and pull it away from the wall so front and back can be accessed. Remove front panel. Remove front drum support. Remove rear access panel. Disengage drive belt from idler wheel. Make careful note of course of belt and which side is "outward". Remove drum through front. Remove Rollers using circlip pliers. Remove nuts behind shafts. Remove shafts. Clean-up area and parts before re-install.

Install new Shafts and nuts. Grease shafts. Install new Rollers, washers and clips. Drape drive belt over drum while reinstalling from front. Remount drive belt over drive and idler pullies from the rear access. During this step it helps to have a helper to position the belt around the drum in correct fore/aft position, lying flat and without twists, smooth side against drum. Install front drom support. Rotate drum to seat belt before closing up. Install rear panel cover. Install Front panel. Plug it in and turn it on for a test.

I looked on line and found a scematic from your web site to determine how to dismantel the dryer. Once I was inside I was able to determine that the drum roller was making the noise. I decided to replace the other moving part while I was inside just in case. . . Pretty easy job

A new gas valve solved the problem. The valve was an exact match but the gas fitting nut has a slightly larger diameter and required a minor modification to the 30 year old Maytag mounting bracket to provide clearance.

Replaced the motor with a new one from partselect per the YouTube video. Had a problem with delivery of the motor. I paid for next day delivery. FedEx picked it up and it made it to the first stop, Indianapolis ok and then stopped. After a week went by I ordered a second one. That one came as promised + 1 day so I’m satisfied. The telephone people were very well spoken and attentive to my discomfort and again I’m satisfied. The motor was at least 25% cheaper than if I bought it from Maytag so the savings is significant, about $50.

The numbers on the metal plates were the JC Penney numbers - that no one recognizes. I eventually found the model number inside the timer case on a printed schematic. I started by disassembling whatever metal covers were removable by finding sheet metal screws and unscrewing them. If you pull on the sheet metal covers, you can find where they are connected to the frame. Eventually, I found that both the heating element was broken and the thermostat was fried. It took a while looking at various websites to find the proper parts. It's all OK now.

Removed four screws from the door hinges and front panel. Removed the front panel by pulling forward from the top and found two screws. The part does not come with screws which are #10 x 1 and 1/4" long hex head sheet metal screws. I believe that the screw size is critical as the part may break loose again if the screws width is too large or small for the predrilled holes in the baffle. One set of holes in the drum had slotted screw holes which would allow for installing the baffle with the screws partially installed in the baffle. I would recommend washers for that installation. Check all three baffles to ensure that all screws are tight.

By watching a video I disassembled the front and took the dryer tub out and replace the two rollers and it took about 60 minute.

Removed Dryer Door and front face of dryer, total of 4 screws, turn dryer drum to position broken baffle screws, remove screws, install new baffle, attach front face of dryer and reattach dryer door. Time 15-30 min. total. Real easy. Thank You PartSelect. Maytag told me my part was no longer available, but I fold it at PartSelect.com.

unplug dryer; remove dryer door; remove front cover; thermal fuse located on heater underneath and beside drum; remove two electrical leads on fuse; remove two screws holding fuse in place; install new fuse and do the above in reverse; clean lint from duct; plug dryer into

Unplugged dryer. Removed dryer door with philips screwdriver. Removed front dryer panel aftr loosening philips screws on each side of door. Then at top right corners I used a nutdriver to remove clips/hooks that hold down top of dryer. I then lifted top of dryer up- it is hinged at back. I could then manually turn drum to access screws that hold baffles. I held each baffle in place with left hand and turned in screws with right hand until tight, using nut driver. I vacuumed out inside of dryer. Reassembled top, front panels and door. plugged in and tested. All good.

Found the high temp thermostat was shutting off the gas after just a few seconds. Tested the thermostat and it looked like it was opening at 180 degrees as opposed to the rated 240 degrees, so I ordered one from PartSelect, which shipped the next business day. Replaced the thermostat and no luck, still shutting down after a few seconds. Turns out the duct going outside the house was blocked with years of lint stopping the air flow. Cleaned out the duct and the dryer is working fine again. Wife is happy she won't have to go to the laundromat.

Take old out, slide new one in. Perfect fit.

Removed front panel and tumbler, replaced roller axle,
wheel, and front glides. Anybody can do this.

take screws out of front of dryer, pull front off to expose drum and replace baffle