CDE8520ACB Maytag Range - Instructions

Parts no longer available so we went to several appliance stores and measured racks. We found a jenair model had racks that measured correctly got the model number and ordered the racks. There working great and now the oven looks like new. Our kitchen is a restored 1956 GE metal kitchen in Cadilac pink. Thanks guys for the fast service and very resonsble price. Was also very happy to find the racks were made in USA.

Nice filter. Exact fit. Had a little ring to use to pull out to clean. Shipment was packed well.

1. Unscrewed glass cover on bulb
2. Removed old bulb
3. Screwed in new bulb
4. Replaced glass cover
5. Mixed drink & baked cupcakes

1. Flipped breaker and confirmed no power at cooktop.
2. Removed the Fan grille and removed the two screws holding on the control panel. It tilts up and out to the rear.
3. Unscrewed the 2 screws on top holding old switch to panel.
4. Disconnected the wiring one lead at a time and connected it to the new switch in the same spot. There are 5 wires total and I carefully used needle nose pliers to remove reluctant wires and to adjust connectors if they were loose on new switch
5. Screwed the new switch onto the panel and screwed the panel back onto the cooktop.
6. Tested new switch...worked great.

1. Turn off power at breaker. Take no chances. Turn on each working burner, fan, oven light to be sure there is no power to the appliance. Then, turn them off.
2. Pull knob on switch straight out to remove.
3. Remove 4 Phillips head screws under control panel. Pull panel gently down, then out toward you slightly to release top edge. Rest control panel on self-clean lock knob.
4. Confirm terminals on new switch match up with old switch.
5. Use needle-nose pliers to gently remove wires from old switch one at a time and place them on the
corresponding terminal on new the switch.
6. Reverse steps 3, 2 and 1. Test switch and burner.

1. Diagnosed problem = switch at fault not element
Made a diagram of wire positions on faulty switch
2. Ordered part = remarkable service! Switch arrived in less than 24 hours
3.Installed new switch
4. Tested appliance = success!
5. Saved $150 and a lot of aggravation
Terrific site. Excellent help in figuring out and solving the problem. Two thumbs up!

Unplug power cord, remove wires from block. take 2 screws out. replace with new block about 15 mins. Done

Followed instructions, once saw and how to replace and replug wires as the instructions it was easy as per your instructions

Remove cover plate, install new switch, replace cover place. Replace one wire at a time, a pair of needle nose pliers may be helpful. Surprise of this job was that I had a torque screw driver (I think that's what it's called) to remove the switch from the cover plate. These are the screws you'll see after removing the knob. Find that driver before you begin, mine was in the garage and for the life of me, I can't remember why I ever had one in the first place.
Thanks for a great web site!

First I removed 7 screws, using a Philips head screwdriver, to allow access to the inside of the oven door. I then removed several more screws to separate the panel holding the seal so that I could remove it and replace it with the new seal. Once the seal was in place I re-inserted all the screws to the panel and door to complete the repair. The knobs just slipped on to replace the ones that broke and fell off.

It was worth the money for that little screw, since I didn't have to run all over trying to find the right one.

Remove cover and install

Removed top and front panel

Really easy ...followed advice posted from others with same problem. Before anything disconnect the power at the breakers and use a voltage detector to verify there is NO POWER!!!! Only need to remove the two phillips screws on the four controller panel, Slide panel away from you to access the controllers. Match wire/connector for connector from the old to new controller. Reassemble, restore power .. Happy wife!!!. She has been on my case to fix this thing for several years.

I removed two screws that held the switch plate together. Then I removed two screws that held the faulty switch to the swtich plate. I then unpluged one wire at a time from the old switch and pluged it into the new switch. Reattached the switch to the switch plate and then reattached the switch plate to the stovetop. Bingo! Everything worked beautifully. It was so easy and I saved ~ $100.00 by doing it myself, as opposed to a quote that I got from a local repairman.