CDB6100AWX Magic Chef Dishwasher - Instructions

First of all, rather then spending the 44 dollars on the main door seal simply cut yours in halve and trim a quarter of an inch from the disintegrated ends and use superglue and glue these ends together. this glued end will now be up top and in the middle and new clean ends will be down in the corners. next I removed the plastic door panel using a torxhead screwdriver, I just stuck the new inner foam pad on the old one. Then I glued rubber washers to the inner frame about 1/8 thick in the top 2 corners only. Finally I reattached the plastic door being careful not to tighten the torx head bolts just tight enough. It's dry and working good.

We ordered the replacement part for our Maytag model and when it came we saw that it was different than the original part. The original part had 8 wheels with a higher left hand side. The replacement part had only 6 wheels and no higher side. The replacement part would not pull in and out evenly and was a bit too narrower. We called Parts Select and told them our problem and they are going to refund us in full and take back the part they sent. Alas we will have to buy a new dishwasher. We would use Part Select in the future for replacement parts.
Alice
Cambridge, MA

I replaced the old basket with the new one. Fit perfectly, now I do not have silverware falling through the cracks!

Unscrewed old nut, inserted new nut into new spray arm and screwed the assembly back in. Took less than one minute. Requested the 3-5 day delivery and received parts on second day. After examining the old and new parts it appeared the nut was the only part I would have needed, but since parts were less than $5 each I did not want to take a chance. Total cost was $16, the shipping being the most expensive item but much cheaper than paying for a service call.

slid the part in the groove (left side)

I ordered the new spray arm and nut, snapped them together, screwed the nut onto the screw and started a load of dishes. That's how simple it was. Glad I found your website. Thanks.

All I did was put in the slot and it fit like a glove.

Took off the float, the jam nut was hard to get off, we ended up breaking the bottom piece of the float to get it off, but that was okay because we had a new float. The new float went on real easy and the jam nut went back on real easy. The foam insulation strip was real easy to get off we got a good hold of one end and striped it off slowly so there was nothing left on the door, then we cleaned the surface and put on the new insulation strip. We ran dishwasher to test it and there was no leak. Awesome. Cheap and easy to repair. We were impressed.

I replaced the door latch grommet just as everyone else has described on this site. It was pretty easy. I was amazed that such a little piece of rubber can let so much water get by. The inlet valve was not too bad either. Take the two bolts out that hold the bracket to the dishwasher. Remove the rubber hose on the back side and take loose the two electrical connections. My water line was long enough to pull it out in front of the dishwasher. Then I took the water line loose and removed the fitting. Installed the new one in reverse order of what I just described. These items took care of the bulk of the leaking problem. But I am in the process of ordering a new door seal which I hope resolves the rest of the issue. Also make sure you check the upper and lower control arms to make sure the spray holes are free of debris. This dishwasher was full of pieces of clear plastic that caused the spray arms to spray indirectly and towards the cracks of the doors.

Removed four screws on bottom plate. Located repair site on outside of cabinet. Had to hook spring on bottom rear plate by brail. Then attached linkage to spring and ran stiff wire through linkage to raise it above arm. Called a man with stronger but larger hands had him stretch the spring while I guided linkage over arm and into the slot using the wire. Removed stiff wire with needle nose pliers and reassembled front plate.

removed inner door panel. tested ythe Wax motor that operates the soap dispenser latch. It tested OK so I removed dispenser assembly. replaced the worn plastic parts and reinstalled the inner door panel.

First I turned off the circuit breaker to dishwasher. Then removed the lower spinner and related parts. The water in the bottom needs to be sucked out with a shop vac next, because when the pump screws are removed any remaining water will drain underneath onto the floor. Remove the wash pump and drain rotor.
Remove the front bottom plate to access underneath, unplug the electric motor and thermister. Unscrew both hoses,drain and upper wash arm. Move the locking ring to release the the entire assembly up into the dishwasher.
The kit I bought had most of all the washer parts included, so on reassembly I used the new ones. The rest when back together in reverse order after a good cleaning. Since the thing was apart anyway why not clean up all the filters on reassembly. The kit also came with complete instructions.

Myscanning other reviews i saw mention dishwahser developed a small leak on RHS of door. I assumed the door gasket and planned to order that. On of the dispenser gromet which is only a $5 part so ordered that as well. I first replaced the door gasket which is an easy 10 mins job and ran the dishwasher again, but it still leaked.

I then removed the 7 torx screws on the door panel which came away easily. It was obvious that water was in there, so i removed the two screw on the dispenser with a nutdriver to replace the grommet. This process took 20-30 mins. After reassembly the leak was gone.

Without the comments on the website i would never have thought of the disepenser as source of the problem.

I took apart the lower spray arm apart and removed the 6 hex screws. I noticed that the little plastic circle thing had been ripped off the dome-shaped thing. I replaced the part and put it all back together.

I used a torx driver to remove the seven screws holding the inside door panel in place. Flipping it over exposed the dispenser mechanism. There were two hex nut screws holding the whole assembly in place and two wires attached to the wax motor. As an afterthought I had ordered the sealing grommet for the latch, and as it turned out, the main problem with the sticking latch was that the grommet had worn out and allowed the hard soapy water to leak into the slider assembly and build up a hard crusty residue that had helped to ware out the old wax motor. After completely disassembling all of the parts, I scrubbed the residue out of the housing, replaced the slider, latch, spring, and grommet. Next I snapped the new wax motor into place and connected the two wires. The whole thing went back in place and the two hex screws went back to hold it all together. Finally, the seven torx screws went back to put the door back together. The whole repair went without a hitch.