CAV2050AWW Magic Chef Washer - Instructions

Back of this washer did not remove, so we had to go in through the top--more restricting space. As you remove the old electrical metal contacts (two each of white and red), pay close attention to where they connect properly. Best to mark them so as not to confuse how to place new contacts. Also, we disconnected a white plastic hose on opposite side of top which determines load size and amount of water, so be sure to look for this.

The lid switch is on the right side top of the washer under the lid. I took a putty knife and found the clips that hold the top of the washer and pushed them to release it. I then lifted it up to fully see the lid switch. I unplugged the washer from the wall socket and took out the 2 screws that holds the lid switch in. Then unplugged the lid switch from its electrical connection and put the new one in its place. Washer is working great so far.

Disconnect Power. Disconnect supply hoses. Open top by releasing top retainer clips with a thin blade or putty knife. Remove 2 sheet metal screws retaining front cover. Remove front cover. Lay a blanket on the floor and lay the machine over on its side leaving access to the front where the panel was just removed. Take belt off. Remove pump hose at bottom of drum. Prop up drum so it is centered in its normal position and not laying to one side. Do this near the lid end. Remove all centering springs - carefully. Drum and transmission assy will now come out through the front opening. Flip drum assy upside down with transmission up. Loosen the screws (do not remove completely - WARNING OF 200 LBS SPRING LOAD!) that clamp the snubber ring to the transmission. Remove the old snubber ring and replace with new. Be sure it is completely under the flange all the way around. Tighten the retaining ring screws. Reassemble all parts in reverse order. Done. Be sure to level the machine per owners manual instructions.

I moved the washer out from the wall. unplugged washer, turned off water. Took off rear plate exposing pump. Disconnected hoses, using dry/wet vac to catch water. Took out three screws holding pump to base of washer and removed pump, belt slipped right off. Set new pump in place and put in screws. Connected hoses, put rear plate back on. Tilted washer back and installed belt on pulleys and motor. Turned on water, plugged in washer, started to wash clothes. Washer works fine and QUIET. I have yet to find the model number on my Maytag washer. I ordered the pump by sight (good pics).

Followed the great instructions on your video

Removed front panel by releasing spring clips with putty knife and removed two screws with a ratchet and 5/16” socket. Removed rear access cover with a ratchet and 5/16” socket. Removed and replaced tub to pump hose. Loosened clamps on each end of hose with channel locks.
Re installed rear access cover and front panel.

I pulled washer out and removed filler hoses from water supply and drain hose and tilted it forward placing three short 2X4's under the washer to keep it tilted forward. Removed
back plate with nutdriver. Removed belt from pulley and disconnected the two hoses from pump with pliers. Removed three large screws from pump base with nutdriver and removed old pump. Installed the new pump in reverse order. Quick and fairly easy took about 30 minutes.

I removed the screws and the power connection to the timer. I had to remove the broken plastic piece stuck in the collar with pliers.
I as able to get it put back on and working pretty quickly. It is too hard to describe it all here but I got it fixed and saved about 120.00 doing it myself.

Disconnected both power and hot and cold input water lines. Laid the washer on its front side for access to the bottom. Removed the small access panel from the back of the machine to remove the metal screws holding the pump in place. Removed the single drive belt. New pump installed easily, replaced the belt and access panel. Reconnected the power and water hoses and everything worked fine.

Changing the hinge was not difficult, but here's a hint: the top of the washer raises up if you pry it with a big screwdriver- be sure to wrap the screwdriver in a cloth so as not to scratch the appliance. Doing it this way makes it easy to access the retaining screws. You can push the wash tub to one side and reach the screws from underneath, but they're a tight fit and doing it that way is difficult. Overall a pretty easy repair and I'm only moderately handy.

First , I unlocked top cover and propped; removed front cover. tilted machine back propping front. pump is at lower right corner, removed both hoses, removed belt and three screws. reversed order completing job. You will have some water leakage removing hoses.

I changed the piece easily

It took long because I did not know where the noise is coming from and I took the sides off. I went to the store and bought a new washing machine. Delivery was scheduled in 3 days. I decided to lay the machine on its side and look underneath. I pulled the belt off the 3 pulleys and turned each pulley by hand. The one runing the pump was stiff and noisey. I ordered the part, arrived in 2 days, installed it in 15 minutes and closed the machine in 30 minutes, then cancelled the order of the new machine and saved $500.00

raised the top of the washer to get at the front panel screws. Removed the front panel. Removed the cracked hose and installed the new one. Reinstalled the front and top panels.

Hardest part was figuring out how to get to the water valve. Turned out that the way in was from the top. All I had to do is remove two screws at the back of the top panel, and then unclip the front edge of the top panel (use a thin screwdriver to press in on the clips from the front of the machine). From there, it was easy to reach down inside and remove/replace the valve.