CAV2005AWW Magic Chef Washer - Instructions

Pretty simple repair--popped the fabric softener cup off of the agitator top and took out the bolt that secures it to the assembly. Removed the broken agitator top, replaced with the new one and reinstalled the bolt and softener cup. EZ as pie for only $24 including shipping! Great price!

Fabulous turnaround time from www.partselect.com. I had the problem corrected inside of 4 days using standard shipping. I will definitely do business with them again!

Removed the screws on the back plate pulled the hose clamps off removed the belt and three screws off the pump went back just as easy and the machine was like new again. If only all repairs was this easy!

I pretty much followed the video,and read some of the other comments on how to do it. I only had one problem, the back panel had an opening of about 14"x14" to access the 2 rear balance springs. I finally laid the machine on it's face,so I didn't have to kneel down.The only problem with that,is the tub falls forward, making the springs farther away from the upper hole to attach/stretch, the springs to remove/install. I cured that problem by cutting a wedge out of a piece of 2x4, and stuck it between the top edge of the tub & upper frame. Worked great,held the tub in position, closer to the springs & locating holes. Taking them off is no problem,installing them, was made easier by using the wedge. The parts were a perfect fit, no more 'walking away from the wall' now! Thanks PartSelect

Top loader May Tag washer with open bottom. After research I presumed it needed a new belt, or Transmission, which runs 3 pulleys under the open bottom. After tipping the washer back for inspection, saw oil splatter underneath. Removed old belt by turning largest pulley on Transmission while pulling the belt "off" the edge. Belt was aged, Stretched and worn. Belt and all 3 pulleys were oily causing slippage. The main large Drive pulley on the Transmission shaft, has a plastic snap on grease cup at it's center. I snapped it off with screw driver. The cup was partially full of thinned old grease causing the oily mess. There's a C clip inserted in a groove on the end of the drive shaft holding the pulley on. Removed the C clip with screw driver tip and slid off the Drive pulley. The Center of the pulley contains a plastic ratchet assembly that operates the washer tub cycle to rotate and stop and repeat. The ratchet assembly falls right out, and in the end of transmission is a Thrust washer which can be pulled of easily also. I Cleaned all 3 pulleys with De-greaser and finally with Rubbing Alcohol to dry the pulley surfaces. Then cleaned and removed all grease from the plastic ratchet assembly parts and cleaned them. Then I Repacked everything including the Drive shaft with "heavier" Grease that would not break down so easy. Reassembled everything in reverse and installed on the shaft. Snapped the C clip back on to hold pulley back in place and then the Grease cup, which just snaps back in place with a push. Installed new drive belt in the same manner it was removed, only in reverse by turning the pulley, and pushing the belt "on" over the edge of the pulley. Problem fixed and washer works perfect again with Noticeably better operation through all washer cycles.

I followed the video you have on web site. Very good and easy to follow.

Pump is readily accessible at the back of the machine by taking off the access cover. First step is to disconnect power and remove drive belt off tub pulley which is the largest in the center - the takeup is in the drive motor mount but it seems easier to turn the larger pulley and wind the belt off. There are three 3/8 hex mount screws fastening the pump to the washer base and two hose spring clamps attaching the tub drain hose and outlet drain hose to the pump. Follow the directions in the utube video which is the best (most others don't give detailed directions and best method). The only caution I would give is that there is some water in the drain hoses so be prepared to mop it up with sponge and bucket or have some towels available. Install new pump (loose assemble two visible screws to locate pump and then loose assemble far side blind screw and tighten all 3),replace hoses snug to stops and assemble clamps, replace access panel and replace drive belt and plug washer back in.

Pulled machine out from wall. Tilted back and rolled belt from pulleys. Pulled further out and removed cover plate 3 screws. Disconnected hoses with pliers and removed 3 screws with nut driver took out old pump and placed new pump into position. Replaced screws and hoses replaced cover. Tilted machine and replaced new belt. Put machine back in place. Started machine with no laundry. Checked for leaks Done. Approximately 20 minutes. Working great

followed video instructions

First I lifted the top of the washer to get access to the screws that held the hinges in place, unscrewed them, removed the broken hinges and put the new ones on, replaced the screws and closed the top. It was very easy. I was amazed that I could still get replacement parts and at such a great price, less than $15.00 with shipping!

I checked the belt 1st. It didn't look like it could be the problem, but it needs replacement anyway. Replacing belt is very easy, this 1 is at the bottom of the washer.

1. Unplug washer.
2. Move it away from the wall.
3. Tilt washer back & support the bottom front with lumber.
4. You can see the belt looped around 3 pulleys. Water pump in the back. The motor is in the right front & is spring loaded.
5. Grab the motor pulley & push it back as far as it will go, & remove the belt from it.
6. Do the reverse to install new belt.

There is a Brake Rotor & Lining Assy on this washer. I looked up the part on this web site, sure enough somebody else had this same problem. Part is on order. If this is not the fix, I will revise this posting later.

Followed the excellent utube instructions you provide. Piece of cake when I followed the video. The rear springs became much more difficult because my model does not have rear access panel. They were the only stuggle. Thank you for doing the repair videos

Took the whole machine apart tipped tub upside down to put on snubber ring. One person had to hold down very very firmly to the metal ring that fits on top of the snubber ring while another person quickly screwed in the screws to hold it down.
The springs required an extra strong person and a few words of frustration to stretch to get them on. My son who is 39 years old did it. My 60 year old husband would not have had the strength to stretch the springs.
So far it works great. My son washed his carheart jumpsuit and coat with not a sound or wiggle. Your trouble shooting site was what made us decide to order what we did because of the percentages of what the problem was beside each part. Thank you for being so prompt in sending our parts.They came so quickly we weren't without a washer but maybe a day or two.

Removing and installing the pump is theoretically easy, as everyone on this site has said so far. Just remove three hex-shaped screws, loosen drive belt and remove pump, then install new one using the same steps in reverse order. The trick is getting the screws off and on--they do not have slots for a screwdriver and there is not room around them for a socket wrench or pliers. I probable spent over an hour just on removing/replacing these screws and have many bruises to show for it. I ended up attaching a vice grips on the tips of the screws underneath the washing machine and screwing them out that way. And replacing the drive belt was horrifically difficult--that's where the other hour went. The devil was definitely in the details! If anyone had told me what I would have to go through to make this repair, I would have called a repairman. And I am an extremely handy person--I do stuff like repairs all the time, so it is unusual for me to say this. The good news is that the new pump works and the washer is back in commission.

Pop the top of the washer and use the nutdriver to remove the two screws holding the frontpanel on. Use the nutdriver for two more screws holding the plastic motor cover on. Use nutdriver for the two BIG screws holding the motorplate to the washer frame. After this, I literally beat/chiped/sawed the old motor geat off. Once that was done, I put the new one on; had to use a hammer to knock it all the way on (try not to damage the clips). Reassemble everything. Flip washer over and place bet around two smaller gears. Rotate main tub gear to feed belt on. Make sure you use the nutdriver to loosen/tighten the motor positioner screws in the slots if things aren't working here.
The only really hard thing was taking the old motor gear off.

Took off the back plate. Looked to see where it was leaking. Squeezed the clamps on top and bottom to remove from hose and pull hose out.