C221 - Instructions

Oh this was a toughie and I was sweating it out.
With a delicate touch I removed the old knob and pushed on the new knob, 5 seconds

Philips screwdriver
Removed screw (1)
Removed light bulb
Put in new light bulb
Closed door to bulb compartment
Returned screw.

Pro tip! Check how many bulbs you need before ordering. Mine only needed two. I got two. I suspect I’ll buy a new microwave before new bulb burns out again. Ordering/delivery was fast. No need to have spare on hand.

****Make are you order Capacitor & Starter relay too (we ordered separtely so had to pay shipping twice)**** Super easy just open access panel on back near compressor and remove retention clip with fingers, remove & replace both capacitor & starter, put clip and access panel back on, plug in and allow 8 hours to cool! Works like new again! Hope it goes another 10 years

inst said,"50 pct of the time this calls for new capacitor," so we changed the capacitor. Same prob. It also said,"25 pct of the time it's the bi-metal thermostat" So we ordered it. We removed the plastic rear panel from inside the freezer comp. using small nut driver. Here we found much ICE surrounding the defrost unit, three inches thick. We thawed the whole mess. and the freezer has worked fine ever since. I think my habit of getting ice cubes from the inside container rather than from the ice cube dispenser, had kep t the freezer door open too much, interfering with the normal defrost cycle and allowing ice to build up over time so that it finally defeated the system. My new rule, "get ice cubes only from the front."

I feel that the design of the indicator light, with the base attached to the bottom of the lens, is ingenious in that it eliminates the need for fasteners in that confined space, However, the plastic used for the base needs to be more flexible. Part of the base broke off in trying to force the base over the bottom of the lens. Fortunately, there was enough left on the base that I could slip it over the bottom of the lens and complete the installation.

My wife help take the door off. It was a little heavy . The door came apart very easy and went back the same way.We save over $300 by doing it our selfs.

Removed the access panel on back of unit located the Run Capacitor on the compressor and removed the bad one and put the new one on and pugged refrigerator back in and it started up and works fine now

Not so good that was not the problem. Fan is not seized and all the lights work and display is not on but lights up as well. No start once plugged back in after 15 minutes of being unplugged. Nothing same no change.

Used the suggested problem list here to narrow down that the repair was most likely the run capacitor. Poped the new one in and I now have better control of my compartment ranges. I have a temperature gauge in each compartment. Check them every opening of the doors.

Was told capacitor was problem 90% of the time.Capacior was not the problem.Bad start relay.

Like you video

I had tried several other "universal" brands from the home improvement center but nothing worked with my Jen-Aire. I finally ordered from PartSelect and they fit perfectly! My range-top looks brand new and finding and ordering the correct parts was amazingly easy. Thanks!

Followed other's instructions from the web site: First - turned off the power at circuit breaker; removed two screws from downdraft vent area; pushed the switch housing back towards vent and lifted; held replacement switch next to defective switch and removed and replaced one wire at a time; loosed switch collar-nut and swapped defective switch for new one. Only issue was the "rat's nest" of wires gave very little room to work, especially if you have average sized hands.

Turned off breaker for range. Removed 4 phillips screws on control panel, tipped it forward and rested it on top of partially open oven door. Removed knob and nut on old switch. Moved wires, one at a time from old to new switch. Put new switch in place, tightened nut and pushed on knob. Put control panel back in place and installed 4 screws... piece of cake.

Just slid off the old burner knobs, and pushed on the new ones. The most difficult part of the whole thing was just being sure that I ordered the correct knobs that used a D fitting. I ordered some a year ago that weren't the correct fitting.