BRS80ARANA02 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

The instructions in the package were not helpful. They wanted me to cut the wiring harness and described where to cut based on the wire colors. My wires were not the same color! I removed the light mechanism using a combination of a screwdriver, putty knife, and plain old muscle with my fingers! The wiring harness unplugged easily and the new one inserted. It was easy to push the whole assembly back into the door. I spent more time looking for something to cut the wiring harness with (and never did find it) than the whole job actually took without needing to cut anything!

Was told capacitor was problem 90% of the time.Capacior was not the problem.Bad start relay.

I took the cover off, and noticed the tabs holding the timer wheel were broken off on one side. after removing the wheel, I noticed the shaft from the ice lifters was broken. Since the only way I could repair it was to buy the entire module, which I did. I received my part in 3 days. When it came, I began removing the old module by taking out the three screws holding it. After replacing the module which took about 10 minutes, my machine was making ice within about an hour. My ice holder was full in 3 days. Albert Moran, Milton, Fl

Used the suggested problem list here to narrow down that the repair was most likely the run capacitor. Poped the new one in and I now have better control of my compartment ranges. I have a temperature gauge in each compartment. Check them every opening of the doors.

Removed the access panel on back of unit located the Run Capacitor on the compressor and removed the bad one and put the new one on and pugged refrigerator back in and it started up and works fine now

I took off the broken tube and attempted to order a new one with the confusing we sight at parts.com- after 3 attempts I finally got the right part with help from the operator at parts . Com( nice and helpful) but had to ship wrong parts ( the 2 wrong ones) back. The parts were of good quality and we're not hard to put on

Popped out the old switch and replaced it with the one dying

Pried out old part with screwdriver. Unplugged. When new part came, just plugged it in and pushed the part into place.

Pull the broken one out, push new one in!

Just plugged it in

Like you video

I just popped out the old switch with a flat head screwdriver. Removed the connections and then installed new switch by reversing steps. Popped in back in and the light went on.

Not so good that was not the problem. Fan is not seized and all the lights work and display is not on but lights up as well. No start once plugged back in after 15 minutes of being unplugged. Nothing same no change.

In the bottom of the refrigerator cabinet is a small drain that should allow any extra water to drip down to the bottom pan of the refrigerator where the compressor is. The compressor is warm and will evaporate the water quickly. If that drain gets clogged then the water will eventually spill out onto the floor. These parts are not necessary to fix the leaking water but when you open the cabinet to check around, you’ll find a lot of mold and fungus has grown on the Styrofoam because of the wet conditions. So I replaced the Styrofoam holders that secure the heat exchanger. This is easily done by removing the white plastic cover in the back of the refrigerator, and then wiggling out the two Styrofoam holders on the left and right. It’s a little easier if you have the new parts before you remove the old parts because they have to fit in just right, but it’s easily figured out. To clear the drain, it’s a little difficult because the tube makes a nearly right angle just below the drain hole. I was not able to clear the clog by pushing anything down the hole because it just hit the right angle turn. I found that I had to pull the refrigerator out, identify the tube by reaching in the back of the refrigerator toward the bottom, pull the tube straight, and then jam wire up through the tube to clear the clog. You can also buy a tube replacement but replacing the tube requires getting into the back of the refrigerator also, so both are about the same level of work.

The switch fix but did not fix the problem. I assumed the wires go on the same way as on the old switch. Is it possible if one light Burns out, the other will not work either?