BKEF3048LSC Frigidaire Range - Instructions

Removed back off of stove. Removed two screws that held in the switch, removed the wires that were connected to the switch and replaced the part.

Twisted replacement bulb into place easily. Let there be light!

At the Frigidaire parts website, I found the parts and saw that there are videos that show how to replace the burner controls. In brief:
1) Slide the range/oven out so you can get to the back of the control hood.
2) There are three screws that hold the cover in place (the video showed four).
2a) The video also suggests using a #1 square bit. I found that there was indeed a square hole in the caps of the screws, but they also had a hex head that a 1/4" hex nut driver fits. So I used that.
2b) Be careful taking out the last (top center) screw. When it comes free, the cover can drop and bruise or cut your foot or the floor. Having a helper is worth it!
3) The switch for the larger elements has a red dot on front and back. Match it with the one in place that has a red dot. The switch for the small element doesn't have a dot.
3a) Holding a new switch in your hand, remove one wire at a time from the switch in the control hood and put it in the same place on the new switch. I found that for my stove, there was a fixture holding two wires and another holding three wires. This made it impossible to put the wires on wrong.
3b) When all wires have been transferred, pull off the control knob in front and unscrew the two screws that hold the old switch in place. Take out the old switch and replace it with the new switch.
3c) Use the two screws to attach the new switch in its place and replace the control knob.
4) Repeat for as many switches as you purchased. I did all four.
5) Replace the cover.
6) Slide the range back into place.

I found black deposits on all the switches, that must have come from a contactor inside, so I was glad I replaced them all.

Another tip: while the unit is out, clean off the sides and back that you couldn't get to while it was in place. For us, this took as long or longer than the steps above for replacing the switches.

After replacing the oven temp sensor, with no success of correction, i purchased and installed the electronic control board. After turning off the power at the breaker and unplugging the stove, I simply removed the top back cover, unclipped the wiring harness, unhooked the 5 oven element wires(writing the color and order for easier reconnection), removed the screws, carefully peeled the face plate off the old control board and re-installed everything in reverse order. Took me all of ten minutes and the oven works like new again.

Took upper back off ( 6 screws), chech to be sure was right switch, pulled spade clip wires of, put on new switch, checked to see that it worked, replace cover.

Your service was OUTSTANDING...Ordered one afternoon, and before lunch time the next day, the delivery man rang my door bell...Thanks a bunch for you excellent service.....

Wife was cooking our thanks giving turkey, when an oder of burning was noticed. I walked over to the oven and smelled the area of oven light, it was bad. I turned off and unpluged oven. Got a screw driver, unscrewed 4 screws then noticed the burned switch from under the oven top. removed 3 wires, covered w/ elec. tape, and pulled oven light switch out front. looked at part number and ordered online. We were able to cook our turkey and enjoyed our meal.

check for power in to the module,when it had incoming power,order new module,jnstalled it and walah done.

When the part arrived, I open the box. Cut off my breaker to the range. Pulled back the stove and unscrewed the back. Located the probe, unscrewed the one screw that held it in. I then unclamped the white connectors, remove the old probe, replaced it with the new one reclamped the connectors. Screwed it back into the range. Replaced the back and screwed that back together. It was so easy I was very proud of my self. I cut the breaker back on and cooked a can of biscuits just to see if it really worked. And it did. My bread was not burned, it was cooked to perfection.

First unplug the stove before staring any of this task. loosen and remove three cross tip screws at the upper front of the stove top. You will need a piece of 1x3 wood about 1 1/2 feet long to hold the stove top up (sets at an angle upwards to the front). Loosen remove the bracket holding the burner you wish to replace. Disconnect the electrical wires connected to the burner. The burner is held in place with bracket clamps, remove the clamps from the oven bracket holding it. The burner will have a series if numbers in the back side, remove the brackets one at a time and reinstall on the same number on the new burner. do this to all 3 or four brackets. Install the new burner, install the bracket holding the burner, reconnect the wires. remove the wood brace and all tools. lay the stove top back down on the stove. plug the stove in and test the burner to make sure it works. turn off the burner and install the screws hold the stove to in place. Ta-Da your done. Also you tube has movie shots to give you a much better picture of what I just wrote about...

Needed just a screw driver, removed the top back cover and unplugged two wire sets. Four screws and the mother board was off. My only problem was the facial front ended up pulling off some of the almond color when I pulled it off, even after I used a heat gun to soften the glue. Besides that it was very easy to fix and the range works perfectly again.

made a drawing as to where the wires were to placed on the new switch,took longer to do this than finding right tools. Important safety tip,always pull off the required breaker!!!

Disconnect power to Range at Electrical Service Panel control box. Remove 240 volt service electrical plug to range. Remove back top panel to expose element control switches. Remove element control switch to L.F. burner by first pulling off the control knob. You may need to use a large flat screw driver to pry behind knob to get it started but it should come straight off. There are two screws revealed under knob that need to come off. Then the element control is easily, but carefully, removed out the back. Be careful you do not pull the "Hot Surface Indicator Light" switch off right above the element control switch. If you do, this will break the end off the plastic "Hot Surface Indicator Light" lens. If this happens you can still replace it but you will need to use super glue to make the "Hot Surface Indicator Light" switch stay connected to the clear lens. Install new element control in reverse order before gluing the "Hot Surface Indicator Light" switch as stated above or you will knock it off again. While holding the old element control in your hand with wires still attached, remove one wire at a time (making note of the location code for each wire) from old element control and install on new control. The new element control layout for the wire prongs will be different so you need to make sure you look for the code (like L1, H1, P) located on each prong location and put the same coded wire from old element control location onto new control prong code location. Reinstall new element control (with wires pushed fully onto prongs of new control) into panel with screws removed before. Reinstall knob, reinstall panel cover and reconnect range power plug. Restore power to Range at Electrical Service Panel control box With electric power restored, test element control by turning it on and see if it properly cycles on and off at different settings. If working properly you should be able to hear it click on and off and element heating and going off accordingly.

Husband very ill in bed. It's up to me!! Got a new bulb at HomeDepot and figured out how to get that wire 'thing' back in and the new glass cover installed. I DID IT!! WOW! My husband has always done these jobs around the house.......but now it's up to me.......and I'm not so dumb after all! I DID IT!! Now everyone who comes in the house.....I show them what I DID!! :-)

Replaced switch by according to video with no issues, Terminals were nearly identical as the new switch.

The terminals on the new burner were not located in the same position as the terminals on the old burner. I had to reference the wiring diagram to locate the correct wire to terminal location. There was not enough slack in the wires to position the new burner in the same position as the old burner. I had to rotate the new burner so the wires would reach. This cause me to have to rotate the warming burner because rotating the new burner, the terminals interfered with the terminals on the warming burner. I also had to reposition some of the wires so they would not contact the burner and terminals.