AZ2727GIHW Maytag Refrigerator - Instructions

Removed old ejector arm and installed new part.

Emptied the door by taking out all the shelves with their contents. Removed the upper door closer works. Removed the door by lifting up and away from the main box. Layed the door on its side. Took out the old lower hinge pin and door closer with cup. Put in the new lower hinge pin and door closer with cup. Applied sewing machine gear grease to the 2 pieces where they work together. Lifted the door and placed the lower hinge pin into the door closer with cup. Replaced the upper door closer works.

Removed the ice bucket, reached under the ice enclosure and unplugged the auger motor removed the ice enclosure, attached the auger motor on the new ice enclosure reinstalled the new ice enclosure, plugged the auger motor and put the ice bucket back in place. The hardest part was to get the forked piece that goes inside the ice enclosure off of the auger motor. I ordered the part one day and it was at my house the next day!

The switch fix but did not fix the problem. I assumed the wires go on the same way as on the old switch. Is it possible if one light Burns out, the other will not work either?

Popped out the old switch and replaced it with the one dying

Removed approx. 5 phillips screws to access the flap from the outside of the freezer door and R & R'd the flap, then repaced the screws. Fairly simple installation. Most impressive was how easy it was to find the part here and the quick delivery.

Removed the screws that held the main ice bin and slid back the bin to leave space behind the auger to remove the broken ring. Replaced with new ring and replaced screws to hold ice bin back in place.

Very easy to install. Just snap in and done.

Followed included instructions. Thank you.

Removed all screws on back and 4 on front. That part is easy IF you have a Torx of the right size. Slip out the ice bin a bit and replace the drive ring. Reassembly is a bit harder since some internal shift can occur -- rotate or tilt the whole assembly to get two -- I think -- screws started. No need to over tighten screws; snug is good enough.

Taking everything apart and eyeballing what was wrong only took 15 minutes and one tool, the T15 torx driver ... a star screwdriver.

Disclaimer: I am 79 with arthritis. This should have taken about 15 minutes to put together. I made a couple of errors. I did not wind the ice door spring tight enough. It needs to be wound almost two turns ... so I had to do it over again. This is where I needed the long nose pliers to wind the spring.

The second mistake was I did not unplug the refrigerator. That is a basic safety precaution. I did not get shocked, but while I was working on it the ice was melting and refreezing, which created an ice jam at the ice door. All is working now. It is always satisfying to have fixed it myself.

The plastic fill cup part is also used to hold one end of the wire “one/off” switch that is manually activated or activated when the ice tray is full. This wire piece fell out because one end, that is part of the plastic fill cup, broke off. The wire switch was fine.

The video demos show you exactly what to do. The repair man showed me a trick to speed up the testing process. The trick is to insert a wire jumper cable to actuate the ice maker and make it rotate. But this isn’t necessary.

Hardest part of this fix is emptying the freezer (bottom with a slide out door) and removing the door.

Why this part is so expensive is beyond me. But I’m happy it was available for a 24yo fridge that still works!!

I switched the ring and still had the same problem. What caused the Drive ring to crack was the Ice maker drive was cracked also, when it filled with water it would tip. The ice was not freezing completely and would cause the ice to build up and the auger was froze with ice or a big piece of ice would jam it. So I replaced the Ice Tray, it is working like new. I have to buy another ice tray as inventory, although I know inventory is bad but I never agreed with that theory.

Removed ice maker. Removed one screw and removed ice tray with motor. Had to unplug the wire bundle from the refrigerator wall behind the ice maker.
Screws holding motor and parts were corroded and very difficult to remove. Once remover the unit was easily reassembled and replaced into the refrigerator.
The ice maker was cleaned and carefully placed onto the ice shelf.
the ice maker restarted fine.
Great part delivery.

Everything went as planned except the cold temperature (freezer door switch located inside freezer) made deflection of the switch locking tab difficult to remove. Letting the switch warm up was not an option.