ASI2175GRB07 Amana Refrigerator - Instructions

The switch fix but did not fix the problem. I assumed the wires go on the same way as on the old switch. Is it possible if one light Burns out, the other will not work either?

Everything went as planned except the cold temperature (freezer door switch located inside freezer) made deflection of the switch locking tab difficult to remove. Letting the switch warm up was not an option.

inst said,"50 pct of the time this calls for new capacitor," so we changed the capacitor. Same prob. It also said,"25 pct of the time it's the bi-metal thermostat" So we ordered it. We removed the plastic rear panel from inside the freezer comp. using small nut driver. Here we found much ICE surrounding the defrost unit, three inches thick. We thawed the whole mess. and the freezer has worked fine ever since. I think my habit of getting ice cubes from the inside container rather than from the ice cube dispenser, had kep t the freezer door open too much, interfering with the normal defrost cycle and allowing ice to build up over time so that it finally defeated the system. My new rule, "get ice cubes only from the front."

Replaced drum and reassembled unit.

I followed the instructions on your video.

i used the instructions that came with the part and it was really simple. thank you very much. it saved me a HUGH repair bill.we use alot of crushed ice and the part shipped in 2 days. thank you.C.D.L.

Opening up the Evaporator Fan section was a quick and easy job. After opening, I checked and removed the fan and looked at the grommet. The grommet on the fan was tight and secure and I could no longer hear the noise. I closed the opening. Something I had done while checking the fan grommet must have solved the problem. I have not hear the noise again!

replaced the drum ---- however it would of been more helpful if directions came with the part on how to take off the old drum we had to look on line to see how to do that wants we got that done the rest was a piece of cake

Removed old filter then insert new filter and pushed door closed

Pried out the old switch and installed the new switch.

Repair was tremendously easy. All I did was remove old light switch by prying out with screw driver and plugging in the new light switch and pushing it into the hole. Simple! The instructions weren't needed, but they were very thorough.

Had to push the light switch to get lamp to light up.
Removed power from refrig. and removed old light switch
and replaced with the one I got from Partselect. Turned power back on and was done.

Remove 4 self tap screws holding on front cover/bin handle. Remove 2 self tap screws holding drum cover. Remove 1 self tap screw at back of bin holding door actuating rod and spring, slide forward to disengage. Remove "E" clip and flat washer. Remove plastic nut {clockwise/left hand threads]and remove crusher parts [keep in order removed]. Slide new drum on shaft and reassemble crusher in reverse order. Install drum cover w/2 self tap screws. Install flat washer and "E" clip. Re install actuator rod and spring assy. Install front cover and test in refrigerator. The 2 self tap screws that hold drum cover are easier to remove with a 1/4' drive ratchet and 1/4" socket because of limited space behind actuator rod. This job is a snap to do. I'm sure it's at least $50.00 cheaper than a service call.

bulbs were not burnt out. received the new switch in a few days. watch the short video, was good to see how it comes out. used a putty knife to release the defective switch, removed wires put them on the new one and posed the new switch back in. Not bad Part cost $11.00 7 dollars shipping so for 17 bucks it works great. nice to see what is inside the refer!

Eased the putty knife under the edge of the switch housing and pried it off. Pulled two wires off the old terminals and hooked them onto the new one and reinstalled into the refrigerator body.