AS2125SIHW Maytag Refrigerator - Instructions

Popped out the old switch and replaced it with the one dying

The switch fix but did not fix the problem. I assumed the wires go on the same way as on the old switch. Is it possible if one light Burns out, the other will not work either?

Removed approx. 5 phillips screws to access the flap from the outside of the freezer door and R & R'd the flap, then repaced the screws. Fairly simple installation. Most impressive was how easy it was to find the part here and the quick delivery.

Emptied the door by taking out all the shelves with their contents. Removed the upper door closer works. Removed the door by lifting up and away from the main box. Layed the door on its side. Took out the old lower hinge pin and door closer with cup. Put in the new lower hinge pin and door closer with cup. Applied sewing machine gear grease to the 2 pieces where they work together. Lifted the door and placed the lower hinge pin into the door closer with cup. Replaced the upper door closer works.

First I removed spill tray. It slipped right out. next I removed the front cover.it had 2 screws hidden by the spill tray. next were the 2 screws holding the selection slider.Under it is 3 more screws after removing them then the assembly will come lose from the refrigerator.Be careful you dont drop the ice door. unplug the assembly. Turn unit over and you will see the limit switch remove and replace it with 1 small phillips screw. remove and replace dispenser actuator pad.replace everything in reverse order.The ice door is the only thing a little tricky.still i replaced ours in about 10 mins.

Just plugged it in

Disconncted power, pulled plug on disconnect, loosened 3 ice maker attach screws, removed ice maker. carefully removed old broken part, to understand reasembly. Reinstalled new water fill & bearing part.. hung icemaker and tightened attach screws. Reattached electrical plug.. turned on power, it all worked. .took about 45 min to remove, 15 min to reinstall. Right tools needed re disassembly AND ASSEMBLY

ordered a new shut-off valve. arrived in 5 days. installation had to wait a couple more day for i had to order a new compression nut. the reason i had to order a new nut was because the original nut was made of teflon and stripped easily when i tightened it to make a leak proof.joint. the new nut arrived in two days and was installed readily being that it was made of brass and consequently did not strip when i tightened to make a drip proof joint. finished in approximately twenty minutes' the video that this site has on the internet was of great value.

Removed 6 screws to get at broken part. Had to remember the disassembly sequence to properly reassemble. The whole process was relatively simple. I saved about $125 which would have been the cost of a repairman coming to the house.

First remove srews from front icewater panel
Second pushed panel up to remove and disconect electric conection.
Third rmoved broke ice door and installed new one in holder frame.
Fourth reversed steps two and one.
Job cpompleted.

Taking everything apart and eyeballing what was wrong only took 15 minutes and one tool, the T15 torx driver ... a star screwdriver.

Disclaimer: I am 79 with arthritis. This should have taken about 15 minutes to put together. I made a couple of errors. I did not wind the ice door spring tight enough. It needs to be wound almost two turns ... so I had to do it over again. This is where I needed the long nose pliers to wind the spring.

The second mistake was I did not unplug the refrigerator. That is a basic safety precaution. I did not get shocked, but while I was working on it the ice was melting and refreezing, which created an ice jam at the ice door. All is working now. It is always satisfying to have fixed it myself.

The plastic fill cup part is also used to hold one end of the wire “one/off” switch that is manually activated or activated when the ice tray is full. This wire piece fell out because one end, that is part of the plastic fill cup, broke off. The wire switch was fine.

The video demos show you exactly what to do. The repair man showed me a trick to speed up the testing process. The trick is to insert a wire jumper cable to actuate the ice maker and make it rotate. But this isn’t necessary.

Hardest part of this fix is emptying the freezer (bottom with a slide out door) and removing the door.

Why this part is so expensive is beyond me. But I’m happy it was available for a 24yo fridge that still works!!

I switched the ring and still had the same problem. What caused the Drive ring to crack was the Ice maker drive was cracked also, when it filled with water it would tip. The ice was not freezing completely and would cause the ice to build up and the auger was froze with ice or a big piece of ice would jam it. So I replaced the Ice Tray, it is working like new. I have to buy another ice tray as inventory, although I know inventory is bad but I never agreed with that theory.

Everything went as planned except the cold temperature (freezer door switch located inside freezer) made deflection of the switch locking tab difficult to remove. Letting the switch warm up was not an option.

Removed all screws on back and 4 on front. That part is easy IF you have a Torx of the right size. Slip out the ice bin a bit and replace the drive ring. Reassembly is a bit harder since some internal shift can occur -- rotate or tilt the whole assembly to get two -- I think -- screws started. No need to over tighten screws; snug is good enough.