ARC700LL Amana Range - Instructions

One screw taken out, 2 wires switched, new part & screw put in. Burner like new!

While trying to clean the oven, I decided to remove the lower heating element to make it easier. After removing the 2 screws on the bracket that holds the heating element in place, I pulled the heating element out only to short it out on the back of the oven and wreck the element. Luckly I was not injured or shocked, so if you need to do this, I recommend reading the owner's manual on how to property ground out the circuit first.

Anyways, to replace it, I just removed the lower panel on the back of the oven (roughly 10 screws). Installed the new element on the inside of the oven and screwed it into place. Then, connected the wires to the element from the back of the oven. Replaced the panel and turned the power back on.

In all, it took probably 15-20 minutes to fix and only cost me $37. I know that a minimum repair cost for this from Sears would have been $150, so definitely worth my time.

Pretty simple. Turned off breaker. Lifted the top, cut the 2 wires. Going to the burner, put the 2 wire nuts on, and screwed the bracket in.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires.

Slide stove out and unplug. Using nut driver (phillips screw driver would work fine) remove screws securing back panel. Remove back panel. Pull off wires from heating element. I made a lose knot on left wire so I could install as removed without confusion - sometimes it matters. Removed 2 screws securing element inside the oven. I installed everything as it was - oven works great. I saved over $100 and my wife thinks I'm a genius. Hardest part was cleaning accumulated mess behind the stove.

my wife did the the job and it was that easy. she took out two screws sliped the wires off put the two wires back on and put the screws in . She is a bank teller and teachers water aerobics

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires.
Then I reconnected the wires to the new element and screwed it in to the oven back. Simple and inexpensive fix.

First I removed the one screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires.

First, I turned off the power to the house at the breaker box. Then I removed the broken heating element through the front oven door. I hoped this would work as it seemed from other reviews that some people pulled the oven out removed the back panel in order to access the element. I unscrewed the plate and then gently pulled the element out. I had a little trouble "unplugging" the element. When I tried pulling, it seemed they were stuck tight. Turns out you have to sort of jiggle the connectors and then they easily pull apart. Had I figured this out initially, the repair would have been under 15 minutes. Attaching the new element to the connectors, rethreading the wiring back into the holes, and then rescrewing on the back plate too the oven wall took just minutes. Easy peasy. So glad I spent $40 to fix rather then $500+ for a new oven!

The directions were very clear. I removed the heating element, detached the plug-in block by unscrewing the screw, then cut the wires about 3 inches from the block. I put the shrink-wrap collars around the wires leading to the new block, then attached the wires to the cut ends of the wires leading to the back of the stove, using the connectors provided in the kit. I couldn't get the collars to shrink as much as shown in the picture. I attached the new block to the stove top using the screw, plugged in the heating element, and it worked!
So the instructions were good, and the heating element is now working. The only problem was the heat shrink collars that go around the connectors: I couldn't get them to shrink much, but that doesn't seem to matter.

Cut power. Removed four attaching screws and raised stove top. Cut two wires of existing burner plug. Used existing plug to select correct plug configuration from parts in kit. Attached new plug and wires to wiring harness using connectors and heat-shrink tubing supplied with kit. Used hair dryer to shrink tubing on connectors. Closed up stove. Restored power. Burner now functional.

First I lifted the cooktop out of the countertop & removed the screws so I could access under the burners.Then I cut the wires for the old plug-in block & then stripped the wires.Next I connected the new wires with the wire nuts & then used a lighter to shrink wrap the wire nuts.Then I screwed in the new block & re-installed the screws for the cooktop.I put in the new burner & it worked just like new.

Ordered a left & right hinge. Paid considerably more for the left hinge but both hinges were identical when received.
Bolt holes in both hinges were not tapped for the bolts which were sent with the hinges. This required a trip to the hardstore to get a tap set. After the bolt holds were tapped there was no problem removing the old hinges and installing the new ones.

I had bought the 1st set of plug-in blocks at lowes, They were the only type they had the univeral ones! They did not hold the elements plug tight enough and half the time they would have to be punshed in more then they would snap and sizzle- I ordere the newer style and they have done great they are better made and heavier metal parts- they elements fit in snuggly and do not sizzle or nor do I have to push the element in. This stove is 35 years old and I have replaced most everything on it. But it's still cooking...

Cut the two wires approx 1 inch behind old connector and removed one screws to remove old connector, stripped approx 3/4 inch off the wires and connected them to the new wires on the new connector with wire caps and shrink wraps which came with the new connector. Replaced the old screw with the new screw and the job was completed. Be sure and disconnect power before starting!!