AFC2033DRQ Amana Refrigerator - Instructions
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Both compartments of the refrigerator were warm.
We came home from a long vacation to discover a warm refrigerator with its contents in various stages of decay.
Turning the freezer thermostat to its warmest setting then back to cold generated clicks, and after a few tries the compressor started and cooled the refrigerator to its normal cold temperatures. But… later the compressor again failed to start, and everything warmed back up again. With persistence and turning the thermostat up and down several times a day, we could keep the fridge cold.
It was time to order parts. We needed a new start relay and capacitor for the compressor. For our Amana ARB2214CW a start relay (WP12555902) and capacitor (WP65889-4) were listed on the first page of the Partselect parts list for my refrigerator. I ordered them, received them, removed the old capacitor and start relay (which rattled when shaken). and prepared to install my new parts. The new start relay did not match the old. The old start relay fit my wiring which had a single plug with two small female spade connectors in the plug. The new start relay required wiring with two separate female spade connectors; one the normal size and one larger. Phone calls to Partselect and to Westinghouse shed no light on the discrepancy. On the second page of the Partselect parts list was a combination of a start relay and a capacitor (W10613606) that matched my electrical connector. I could see the connection in the photograph. I ordered it and it fit. Easy peazy. That fixed the compressor start problem. Every time the freezer thermostat clicked on, the compressor started. Success.
But… from our troubleshooting we now had a thermometer the freezer, and it was obvious that the temperature difference between the cold point where the thermostat turned the compressor off and the warm point where the thermostat restarted the compressor was much too wide. In addition, the knob was hard to turn and was sticky as it turned. Oiling it fixed the sticky knob problem but not the wide temperature difference problem. I ordered a new freezer thermostat (WP67003000), received it, installed it, and all is now fine with my refrigerator. The new thermostat was physically a little different from the original, but it fit and worked.
I returned the first compressor start relay and capacitor and received a refund including the shipping charge.
Turning the freezer thermostat to its warmest setting then back to cold generated clicks, and after a few tries the compressor started and cooled the refrigerator to its normal cold temperatures. But… later the compressor again failed to start, and everything warmed back up again. With persistence and turning the thermostat up and down several times a day, we could keep the fridge cold.
It was time to order parts. We needed a new start relay and capacitor for the compressor. For our Amana ARB2214CW a start relay (WP12555902) and capacitor (WP65889-4) were listed on the first page of the Partselect parts list for my refrigerator. I ordered them, received them, removed the old capacitor and start relay (which rattled when shaken). and prepared to install my new parts. The new start relay did not match the old. The old start relay fit my wiring which had a single plug with two small female spade connectors in the plug. The new start relay required wiring with two separate female spade connectors; one the normal size and one larger. Phone calls to Partselect and to Westinghouse shed no light on the discrepancy. On the second page of the Partselect parts list was a combination of a start relay and a capacitor (W10613606) that matched my electrical connector. I could see the connection in the photograph. I ordered it and it fit. Easy peazy. That fixed the compressor start problem. Every time the freezer thermostat clicked on, the compressor started. Success.
But… from our troubleshooting we now had a thermometer the freezer, and it was obvious that the temperature difference between the cold point where the thermostat turned the compressor off and the warm point where the thermostat restarted the compressor was much too wide. In addition, the knob was hard to turn and was sticky as it turned. Oiling it fixed the sticky knob problem but not the wide temperature difference problem. I ordered a new freezer thermostat (WP67003000), received it, installed it, and all is now fine with my refrigerator. The new thermostat was physically a little different from the original, but it fit and worked.
I returned the first compressor start relay and capacitor and received a refund including the shipping charge.
Parts Used:
-
Bill from KINGSPORT, TN
-
Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
-
Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
5 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Icemaker would not fill with water.
Removed screw under ice maker. Tilted ice maker up to remove unit from upper two screws. Disconnected plug at rear of freezer. Attached wiring harness, baler arm and cover from old to new ice maker. Reinstalled in reverse order. Had ice within one hour. Very easy fix.
Parts Used:
-
Linford from Cedarville, NJ
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers
7 of 11 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Power cord was cut
I removed the 5/16 inch hex head nuts holding the rear access panel where the power cord was connected. Once removed, I released the Molex plug and ground wire. I connected the new cord, screwed in the ground and installed the rear panel. Having the exact OEM part made the job quick and easy.
Parts Used:
-
Frederick from Hanover, MA
-
Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Nutdriver
6 of 8 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
My old icemaker lost some of the nonstick surface and the ice didn't want to come out
I unhooked the wire harness from the ref. and took out three screws and pulled the old unit out. I than changed a few parts from the old icemaker to the new and reattached the new ice maker to the ref. and plugged the wire back in. everything is working fine. No problems. Also I was very happy with the ordering process. Thank you!!
Parts Used:
-
Thomas from Ruth, MI
-
Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers
6 of 8 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
top support clip broke
.screw held in the center of the rail,pull it out,slide the rail up off the support brackets on the door,unplug the old one & plug in the new one,slide on, & replace the screw! That Easy
Parts Used:
-
Gregory from South Glens Falls, NY
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
-
Tools:Nutdriver
5 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
RH door closure broke
Removed the door and replaced the broken door closure bushing. I had courteous help and responce from Parts Select people. Excelent turn around time on parts delivery.
Parts Used:
-
Estel from Luling, TX
-
Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
-
Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
10 of 21 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Ice maker eitehr wouldn't make ice, or made odd shaped cubes
First, I shut off the water going to the refrigerator, then removed the ice bin. Then I loosened the two screws on the top of the ice maker (the one toward the front was a little tricky, since you can't see it at all), then removed the screw that fastens the lower bracket to the side of the frig. Then I lifted up on it slightly to remove it from the two upper screws, then unplugged the wiring harness from the side of the refrigerator and lifted the whole unit out of the frig.
I then removed the plastic cover on the front of the ice maker, pressed on the tab to remove the wiring harness from the old ice maker, and installed it on the new ice maker. I then removed the metal arm from the old ice maker and installed it on the new unit as well. The last part that I moved from the old ice maker to the new one was the lower bracket, as the bracket on the new ice maker was bent during shipping.
Once those parts were swapped, I put the plastic cover on the new ice maker, plugged the wiring harness back into the side of the frig, routed the fill tube into the back on the ice maker assembly, and set the unit back on the two upper screws. I then put the screw back in the lower bracket, tightened the two upper screws, and then put the ice bin back in and turned the water back on. After a couple of hours, I threw out the first couple of batches of ice and it is now working as it had in the past.
I also noticed, when looking at the old ice maker, that the black plastic coating was coming off the ice cube tray, so it was a good time to be replacing it anyway. Overall, a very easy job (I was prepared for swearing, parts being slightly off, etc.) and it would have been a shame to have paid someone to do it.
I then removed the plastic cover on the front of the ice maker, pressed on the tab to remove the wiring harness from the old ice maker, and installed it on the new ice maker. I then removed the metal arm from the old ice maker and installed it on the new unit as well. The last part that I moved from the old ice maker to the new one was the lower bracket, as the bracket on the new ice maker was bent during shipping.
Once those parts were swapped, I put the plastic cover on the new ice maker, plugged the wiring harness back into the side of the frig, routed the fill tube into the back on the ice maker assembly, and set the unit back on the two upper screws. I then put the screw back in the lower bracket, tightened the two upper screws, and then put the ice bin back in and turned the water back on. After a couple of hours, I threw out the first couple of batches of ice and it is now working as it had in the past.
I also noticed, when looking at the old ice maker, that the black plastic coating was coming off the ice cube tray, so it was a good time to be replacing it anyway. Overall, a very easy job (I was prepared for swearing, parts being slightly off, etc.) and it would have been a shame to have paid someone to do it.
Parts Used:
-
J. Bradley from Wellsville, NY
-
Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
-
Tools:Nutdriver
4 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Cracked door seal
Removed old seal and installed new one. Whole job took less than ten minutes. Repair video made it very easy to do! Be sure to allow proper relaxation of new seal before install.
Parts Used:
-
Alfred from OGDEN, UT
-
Difficulty Level:Very Easy
-
Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
4 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Wife used vacuum cleaner and busted blade off fan
Instructions were great five minutes to remove and replace fan....Thank You............ saved big money
Parts Used:
-
Robert from GOSHEN, IN
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers
4 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Ice Maker was leaking
Used socket set to remove screws. Removed the wire harness, then removed lift arm from old ice maker and then put lift arm on the new ice maker. Reinstall wire harness then installed back in freeze with the screws. Video was very helpful. I will do business with Partselect in the future. Shipping was very fast. Thanks Partselect
Parts Used:
-
Robert from Severn, MD
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set
4 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Refrigerator door gasket split
The repair was pretty simple once we had the new one:
Unpacked new gasket and used a little heat in places to straighten it out.
Removed old gasket
just started at one corner by pulling out of groove and went around the door till all of gasket had been removed from the groove around the door.
Installed new gasket
Inserted into groove on one corner and then went around the door until all of gasket had been inserted.
Closed door and checked that there was good coverage all around the door.
Unpacked new gasket and used a little heat in places to straighten it out.
Removed old gasket
just started at one corner by pulling out of groove and went around the door till all of gasket had been removed from the groove around the door.
Installed new gasket
Inserted into groove on one corner and then went around the door until all of gasket had been inserted.
Closed door and checked that there was good coverage all around the door.
Parts Used:
-
Nicholas from LEWISTOWN, MT
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
4 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Auto-opening lid hinge stud snapped off
This kind of repair makes me love the internet. Thank you. Follow advice of my fellow posters but beware, all your plastic parts are very brittle from the cold. Proceed slowly. As mentioned by others but worth stressing is...do resist the temptation to force any piece...I could just see myself snapping one of these pieces and having to order another part! Take your time to work out the sequence to disengage each piece in turn. It's a bit of a puzzle but take your time. Also suggest starting the job with a nice bowl of warm baking-soda water to gently and effectively clean everything as you go.
Parts Used:
-
Kennedy from SANTA MONICA, CA
-
Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set
4 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
broken roller
proped up frig, loosened screws, cut pin, installed rooler w/ new pin, rounded pin end, reistalled, lowered frig...everyone happy, thanks again partselect.
Parts Used:
-
John from Capac, MI
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Nutdriver
4 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
The water supply line to the ice maker kept popping off after I replaced the water filter because an "ice plug" had formed in the fill tube, unbeknownst to me.
1. Turn your water OFF and pull the refrigerator out from the wall so you can access the back.
2. Use pliers to remove tubing clamp.
3. Remove old water fill tube.
4. I used a putty knife to gently pry out the old fill tube from the back of the refrigerator. Once the fill tube pulls out about 1/4 to 1/2", then you can gently pull the remainder of the tube out by hand. Once I removed my "old" fill tube, that is when I saw the "ice plug" that was causing pressure in the water supply line and caused my water line to pop off.
5. Install new fill tube. The end that goes in first needs to go through a small "ring" inside the freezer (this "ring" is not encountered until the fill tube only has about one more inch to be inserted into the back of the refigerator. I could barely see this "ring" if I opened the freezer drawer and stuck my head in as far as I could. I had to gently rotate the new fill tube until it cleared the "ring". You will feel some resistance until it lines up properly.
6. Snugly push in the part that stays on the outside of the refrigerator until it looks like it is sealed.
7. Gently push up the water fill tube where it belongs in the new part and replace the tubing clamp.
8. Turn your water on and make sure there are no leaks (I left my refrigerator out for about an hour).
9. Push your refrigerator back in place.
2. Use pliers to remove tubing clamp.
3. Remove old water fill tube.
4. I used a putty knife to gently pry out the old fill tube from the back of the refrigerator. Once the fill tube pulls out about 1/4 to 1/2", then you can gently pull the remainder of the tube out by hand. Once I removed my "old" fill tube, that is when I saw the "ice plug" that was causing pressure in the water supply line and caused my water line to pop off.
5. Install new fill tube. The end that goes in first needs to go through a small "ring" inside the freezer (this "ring" is not encountered until the fill tube only has about one more inch to be inserted into the back of the refigerator. I could barely see this "ring" if I opened the freezer drawer and stuck my head in as far as I could. I had to gently rotate the new fill tube until it cleared the "ring". You will feel some resistance until it lines up properly.
6. Snugly push in the part that stays on the outside of the refrigerator until it looks like it is sealed.
7. Gently push up the water fill tube where it belongs in the new part and replace the tubing clamp.
8. Turn your water on and make sure there are no leaks (I left my refrigerator out for about an hour).
9. Push your refrigerator back in place.
Parts Used:
-
Michael from TAKOMA PARK, MD
-
Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
-
Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers
5 of 7 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Thought motor was bad freezer cold fridge hot
Ordered new fan motor
Got part took fridge apart
Result was the motor was running
The fan blade had come off the motor
Replaced the motor anyway and reinstalled the fan, working well
Got part took fridge apart
Result was the motor was running
The fan blade had come off the motor
Replaced the motor anyway and reinstalled the fan, working well
Parts Used:
-
Wayne from PENNINGTON, NJ
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
4 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!