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AFB2534FES0 Amana Refrigerator - Instructions

All Instructions for the AFB2534FES0
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The door bin on a friend's refrigerator had a crack in it that quickly grew to a much bigger crack.
You just take the old door bin out by sliding it up and replace with the new bin by sliding it down in the door.
Parts Used:
Refrigerator Door Bin
  • Janet from Bend, OR
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
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The orignal proberm was broken hinge on End Cap
There was little or almost nothing to change out the End Cap, two screws on the End Cap and two screws on slide. It took longer to removed and replace the two drawers and shelve than it did to replace the End Cap. The part I ordered was exactly what I needed.
Parts Used:
Pantry End Cap Kit, LH and RH
  • David L. from Red Rock, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
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Power cord was cut
I removed the 5/16 inch hex head nuts holding the rear access panel where the power cord was connected. Once removed, I released the Molex plug and ground wire. I connected the new cord, screwed in the ground and installed the rear panel. Having the exact OEM part made the job quick and easy.
Parts Used:
Power Cord
  • Frederick from Hanover, MA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
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center rail for crisper broke when unit was about 6mo. old. Subsequently, the crisper frame broke from use without a center rail for about a year and a half.
It was a very simple operation to replace the parts and required essentially no tools, just a small screwdriver to pry up a tab for removal of the chanel on the front edge of the frame. This chanel had to be removed from the old crisper frame and installed in the new one. In addition the crisper control" had to be popped out of the old frame and into the new frame. Most of my time was spent cleaning.
Parts Used:
Refrigerator Center Rail Refrigerator Crisper Frame
  • russell from wesley chapel, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
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Refrigerator Repair - How to Replace the Pantry End Cap
Broken bottom drawer lid mount
Parts Used:
Pantry End Cap Kit, LH and RH
  • Morten from SAN JOSE, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
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The refrigerator compartment kept getting warm.
The vents at the back of the freezer were constantly getting packed with ice. A repairman failed to spot the problem. I used Partselect's web site to do my own analysis and determined that it was the defrost thermostat.
I followed the web site's instructions, which were exceptionally good. Behind the rear wall of the freezer was a lot of ice on the cooling fins and heavily encrusted over the old thermostat. (It was not really difficult, but I am in my 70s and no longer do things like this on my own.)
After replacing the part, I checked the ohms of the old part and found it to be faulty. Since then, the refrigerator has been working great. I wish I had started here. The repairman I had hired replaced the "control board" at significant expense. I doubt very much that anything was wrong with the old control board.
Many thanks to Partselect for an exceptionally helpful web site.
Parts Used:
Refrigerator Defrost Thermostat
  • Richard from SAN FRANCISCO, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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Both compartments of the refrigerator were warm.
We came home from a long vacation to discover a warm refrigerator with its contents in various stages of decay.

Turning the freezer thermostat to its warmest setting then back to cold generated clicks, and after a few tries the compressor started and cooled the refrigerator to its normal cold temperatures. But… later the compressor again failed to start, and everything warmed back up again. With persistence and turning the thermostat up and down several times a day, we could keep the fridge cold.

It was time to order parts. We needed a new start relay and capacitor for the compressor. For our Amana ARB2214CW a start relay (WP12555902) and capacitor (WP65889-4) were listed on the first page of the Partselect parts list for my refrigerator. I ordered them, received them, removed the old capacitor and start relay (which rattled when shaken). and prepared to install my new parts. The new start relay did not match the old. The old start relay fit my wiring which had a single plug with two small female spade connectors in the plug. The new start relay required wiring with two separate female spade connectors; one the normal size and one larger. Phone calls to Partselect and to Westinghouse shed no light on the discrepancy. On the second page of the Partselect parts list was a combination of a start relay and a capacitor (W10613606) that matched my electrical connector. I could see the connection in the photograph. I ordered it and it fit. Easy peazy. That fixed the compressor start problem. Every time the freezer thermostat clicked on, the compressor started. Success.

But… from our troubleshooting we now had a thermometer the freezer, and it was obvious that the temperature difference between the cold point where the thermostat turned the compressor off and the warm point where the thermostat restarted the compressor was much too wide. In addition, the knob was hard to turn and was sticky as it turned. Oiling it fixed the sticky knob problem but not the wide temperature difference problem. I ordered a new freezer thermostat (WP67003000), received it, installed it, and all is now fine with my refrigerator. The new thermostat was physically a little different from the original, but it fit and worked.

I returned the first compressor start relay and capacitor and received a refund including the shipping charge.
Parts Used:
Compressor Start Device and Capacitor
  • Bill from KINGSPORT, TN
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
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The ice maker stopped making ice.
I did a few tests with the old ice maker and determined that it was the ice maker itself that was faulty. The replacement part I ordered exceeded my expectations in the time it took to get the part. I reused the arm, wire harness and clamps from the old icemaker. Then it was a simple install into the bottom freezer compartment, turning on the water supply and bingo...lots of ice cubes.
Parts Used:
Replacement Ice Maker
  • Thomas from Cupertino, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
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The Switch Broke...Absolutely Fell Apart.
I simply removed the old switch using 2 small screwdrivers and the old switch case popped out. I then upluged the wires from the old switch and reversed the process. Didn't take longer than 5 minutes begining to end! Thank you for the great service! Duncan quaid
Parts Used:
Refrigerator Door Switch
  • Duncan from Metairie, LA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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My old icemaker lost some of the nonstick surface and the ice didn't want to come out
I unhooked the wire harness from the ref. and took out three screws and pulled the old unit out. I than changed a few parts from the old icemaker to the new and reattached the new ice maker to the ref. and plugged the wire back in. everything is working fine. No problems. Also I was very happy with the ordering process. Thank you!!
Parts Used:
Replacement Ice Maker
  • Thomas from Ruth, MI
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Icemaker would not fill with water.
Removed screw under ice maker. Tilted ice maker up to remove unit from upper two screws. Disconnected plug at rear of freezer. Attached wiring harness, baler arm and cover from old to new ice maker. Reinstalled in reverse order. Had ice within one hour. Very easy fix.
Parts Used:
Replacement Ice Maker
  • Linford from Cedarville, NJ
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Refrigerator would not cool, while the freezer kept food frozen and the ice maker worked fine. Also, noticed frost build up at the rear of the freezer compartment
First, turned off the circuit breaker. Then: 1. Removed all food, , wire sliding baskets, and the ice bin.
2. Removed ice maker by removing the electrical connector from the socket in the rear panel, removed the single bottom screw with a 1/4” nut driver, loosened the 2 top screws with a 1/4” nut driver, and lifting the unit up and off the 2 loosened screws.
3. Removed the freezer door by loosening the 4 screws( 2 on each side) with a 1/4” nut driver and then lifting the door face off the loosened screws.
4. The next task is to remove the panel at the rear of the freezer compartment: use a flat blade screw driver to compress the side clips that hold the ice maker electrical socket, pushing it into the space behind the rear panel, then removing the rear plastic cover in the center of the rear panel, and finally removing the thermistor cover on the right rear upper corner of the rear panel( separate the thermistor from this piece, threading it through the slot in the top of the plastic cover.
Now, the rear panel can be removed by removing the 4 1/4”” hex head screws with the nut driver and gently easing the panel from its position.
5. Now comes the hard part: the defrost thermostat and most of the surrounding “plumbing” was encased in ice. I used a hair dryer to melt the ice, which created an overflow of water drawing into the collection pan; get ready to mop up this water.
6. With ALL the ice melted( this took over an hour), I simply cut the 2 wires, stripped the feed ends, removed the defective unit, clipped the new thermostat to the copper tube where the old unit was clipped, cut excess wire/stripped the new wires and used 2 orange wire nuts to connect each wire.
Now all the parts and pieces can be reinstalled in the reverse order
Parts Used:
Refrigerator Defrost Thermostat
  • Carl from EAST LYME, CT
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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Freezer would not defrost, refrigerator was warm, no airflow into fridge
Info on your site allowed me to determine the most likely cause of the problem, defrost thermostat, and that fixed it. Good installation instructions on the site too. Part was super easy to install. Hardest part was removing the snap-in/screwed-in plastic parts that held the sliding baskets and back panel in place. Didn't break any.....Thank You!
Parts Used:
Refrigerator Defrost Thermostat
  • SCOTT from ELECTRIC CITY, WA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
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COILS WAS ICING ON REFRIGRATOR SOLID ICED FOUND ENTIRE COILS
CHECK DEFROST THERMOSTAT WITH VOLT OHM METER AND FOUND THERMOSTAT BAD ALSO OHMED OUT HEATER AND HEATER CHECKED OK INSTALLED HEAT SRINK CONNECTORS ON NEW DEFROST THERMOSTAT PUT SYSTEM BACK INTO O
PRATION ALSO CHANGED WATER FILTER ON REFERGRATOR
SYSTEM WORKING OK AND NO ICING OF COILS THANKS WADE BOYLES
Parts Used:
Refrigerator Defrost Thermostat
  • WADE from PILOT MTN, NC
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
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Pantry Lid broken, center rail broken, pan corner cracked
Remove broken parts with philips screw driver (6 screws). Replace encaps while attaching pantry drawer lid. Insert center rail and new drawer.
Parts Used:
Pantry End Cap Kit, LH and RH Pantry End Cap Kit, LH and RH Refrigerator Pantry Drawer Door Cover Refrigerator Crisper Pan Refrigerator Center Rail
  • Merrill from Colorado Springs, CO
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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All Instructions for the AFB2534FES0
121 - 135 of 1105