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AE9233 Dryer - Instructions

All Instructions for the AE9233
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Drum would not consistantly turn
Viewed video on website, however did not match model but put me in the ball park for an overall view. Thank goodness I had the insight to order the pully with the belt. I believe the pully failed first causing the problem with the belt. Recommend replacing both any way while you have it apart.
Parts Used:
Idler Pulley Wheel w/ Bearing Multi Rib Belt
  • Gary from Pocono Lake, PA
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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The belt wore a groove in the belt tention roller and started sliping.
I took out the 2 screws on the bottom of the front cover, pulled out at the bottom, disconnected the 2 wires for the front door and removed 2 screws on the inside top of the front panel and removed. The top of the dryer then flips over. I then tool out 4 more screws and took out the drum. I totally cleaned out the inside of the dryer and then took the oring pliers and removed the oring that held the roller on the belt tension bar and replaced it with the new one that you sent me. I put the drum back in and put the belt back on the new roller, I put the dryer back together and now I have a good dryer that will last another 10 years.
Parts Used:
Idler Pulley Wheel w/ Bearing
  • Nick from Mesa, AZ
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Drum did not turn on heavy loads, only light loads.
I guessed that a new belt may fix the problem. The repair was nearly as easy as the video suggested. I believe the dryer had been repaired before since there was a circular panel on the side which had been removed. I could reach in through the side to slip the new belt onto the pulley. The new belt now enables the drum to turn even for heavy loads.
Parts Used:
Multi Rib Belt
  • William from MELBOURNE, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
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Our Maytag dryer wouldn't spin under a load of wet clothes.
After checking out a video showing how to change the belt I decided to tackle the job. First I pried up the top, there are two plastic tabs in the front corners that hold the top down to the front panel. The top swings upward and will stay in position while you continue to work. Using a 3/8 socket, I removed 4 bolts that hold the front panel onto the frame. Be sure to unhitched the wiring to the door switch and those to the control panel and then the front will come out by lifting it off the tabs in the lower corners. Put the front panel aside and slide the drum forward and out of the dryer frame. Remove the old belt noting how it ms oriented around the tensioner and motor pulley. Now everything should be exposed and you should take the time and clean the inside if I were you. Our dryer was filled with lint and dust but after a good vacuuming and wiping down with a damp sponge, it looked like new again. Put the new belt around the drum noting where it had sat before. There is a grove in the drum but our belt did not go inside their but on the drum itself. Slide the drum back in place and from underneath put the belt on the pulley and under the tensioner. Replace the front panel, rehitch the wires and put the top down and your done. My wife helped clean the inside which took longer than replacing the belt. Total time about an hour or so cleaning time included.
Parts Used:
Multi Rib Belt
  • Daryl from WESTBOROUGH, MA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
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The rollers on the drum were worn out
Unplugged dryer removed the front, removed & marked the wires. Removed the drum & drive belt. Removed the snap ring on front of roller with a pgtai awl.Removed the wheel & worn washers, removed the nut on the back of the roller shaft. reppaced it all in reversed proceedure. Other than a few little scrapes on the knuckles it was Quite easy.
Parts Used:
Thrust Drum Support Roller - for round ported models Idler Pulley Shaft Multi Rib Belt Washer Retaining Ring
  • Richard from Vassar, MI
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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The dryer had been squeaking for at least 6 months when it finally became painfully loud and unacceptable
. I had replaced the idler pulley a number of years ago so I assumed that the noise was now due to either the sliders at the front of the drum or bad rollers at the back.. I removed power by turning off the breaker that serviced the dryer. After removing the lower front panel via the two sheet metal screws at the bottom I then removed the door panel. The safety switch behind the door had to be removed by depressing the sides of the switch after disconnecting the two push on connectors. One will discover that reconnecting the smaller of the two contacts to the unused contact on the switch will allow one to run the dryer with the door off or open. This can be useful to test operation after the repair is complete before reassembling the door and lower panels. I then removed the large panel that secures the front of the drum. The drum is then removed after releasing tension on the drive belt. All rotating parts and sliders could then be checked. Upon disassembly I found that the rollers and sliders appeared ok and decided to replace the idler pulley as a last attempt to fix the problem. This is best done by removing the tension arm and tensioning spring. the pulley is then more easily removed from the arm using snap ring pliers. After replacing the pulley and thrust washer with new parts I reassembled everything. I found it helpful to pretension the arm using a zip tie wrap in that the belt can be more easily reinstalled on the drum and pulley. When the drum and belt is properly in place and belt threaded, one can reach in with a pair of cutters and snip the tie wrap to re tension the system. The dryer has been running normally again for a week after affecting this repair.
Parts Used:
Idler Pulley Wheel w/ Bearing Thrust
  • George from WORTON, MD
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Socket set
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Dryer had no heat
Disconnected dryer from vent and power receptacle, placed dryer on its back and remove the front panel by removing screws along the bottom of the panel and pulling down on the panel. Below the drum the element mounting plate was visible so I removed the sensor and element wires, removed the element mounting screws and pulled the element down and out of its "duct". I installed the new element and replaced the wires and front panel. That's all folks!
Parts Used:
Heating Element Kit - Red Dot
  • Mark from Juneau, AK
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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door bent and when closed broke catch
remove front of dryer with door to get to the back of lach pin. replace front. seprate innor and out door pieces use pliers to remove catch spring clamp ot replace catch screw innor and outor doors back togfther and put tools away your done
Parts Used:
Door Latch Kit
  • David from REardan, WA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
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trouble with lining the drum on the rollers after belt installation
disassembled the entire dryer drum and front bulkhead plate. Installed belt and replaced drum on rollers and positioned idler pulley .Video was very helpful in positioning drum and belt onto idler pulley. More trouble with the existing dryer vent replacement after repairs were complete
Parts Used:
Multi Rib Belt
  • Raymond from OCEANSIDE, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
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Dryer squealed when first starting for about 3 minutes
Disconnect power. First, remove the lower front panel, then the upper front panel (disconnect door switch wiring). Remove two screws holding the top panel to the left and right side panels. Remove wiring connections to light and humidity sensor. Remove four screws to front drum support assembly, lift up to disengage tangs, and remove assembly. Reach in and find the idler assembly for the drum drive belt, and unwrap the belt to loosen it, also removing the belt from the motor pulley.. Slide the drum out the front of the dryer along with the drive belt. Remove the snap ring (using snap ring pliers) and washer holding the idler pulley on to the idler assembly. Remove the idler pulley. Polish the shaft with fine steel wool to get rid of dirt. Clean thoroughly, leaving no steel wool residue. Install replacement pulley, washer, and snap ring. Reinstall drum, taking care to feed belt back into place as the drum is reinstalled. Reach in and wrap the belt around the motor pulley and the idler pulley. Reinstall the front drum support by lifting the drum slightly to allow the support to engage with the drum, and then drop it down to re-engage the tabs into the left and right side panels while reseating it into the blower intake. Install the four screws to hold it in place, and reinstall the wiring for the light and the humidity sensor. Attach the top panel to the left and right side panels with one screw for each side. Reinstall the upper front panel, including reattaching the wiring to the door switch, with two screws. Finally, reinstall the lower front panel. Reconnect to the power source, and you should be good to go.
Parts Used:
Idler Pulley Wheel w/ Bearing Retaining Ring Thrust
  • Theodore from Madison, CT
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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dryer wouldn't heat
I tested all the thermostats and fuses and the heating element with a VOM. I found that the thermal fuse was bad and replaced that and it heats fine. The hard part was reaching everything from the front of the dryer. Poor design for access. Also replaced the door switch while I had it apart.
Parts Used:
Fuse Kit
  • Berkeley from Staunton, VA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
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no heat and worn out belt
The repair went very well. The parts were a perfect fit and arrived earlier than expected.It took a little longer than it should have to do the repair because of my recent surgery I had my 11 year old grandson operating the nut driver taking the dryer apart install the parts then reassemble under my watch full eye. You could say it went so easy a fifth grader could do it.
Parts Used:
Heating Element Kit - Red Dot Multi Rib Belt
  • Robert from Lincoln, NH
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
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Delaminated blower fan
I followed the online video on PartSelect website. No other instruction necessary.
Parts Used:
Blower Wheel
  • Geoffrey from GREAT FALLS, VA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Socket set
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Replaced Drum Rollers and Belt
Removed the front panel of the dryer and drum to replace the rollers. You will need a snap ring pliers to remove the locking snap ring holding the rollers, replaced rollers, installed new drum belt and replaced the front dyer panel.
Tested the dryer no more noise.

Thanks
Parts Used:
Multi Rib Belt
  • Darrel from Indio, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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Clanging of dryer when rolling
Followed video on PartsSelect website, they made it real easy.
Parts Used:
Thrust
  • John from Bel Air, MD
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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All Instructions for the AE9233
91 - 105 of 223