ADE30RGS171TW01 Speed Queen Dryer - Instructions

Diagnose that the circuit is functioning up to the igniter. This is done by removing the peep hole cover on the bottom front panel, turn the dryer on and watch for a glowing igniter. My dryer would still ignite the first time because the coils would not show an "open" until they heated up. So if you see the igniter glow it is most likely your coils are bad. Remove two screws from lint trap area on top of dryer. Pry up on top panel at the two clips. Panel is on hinges, so flip it out of the way or just brace it with something enough to keep it off the front panel. Remove the two bolts from inside top corners of the front panel. Use a small punch or screw driver to push in on the tab to release the doors electrical connector. Pull straight up on front panel to remove it from bottom clips. The gas valve is very easy to get to without removing the drum. If needed for inspection or cleaning, just pull back on the belt tensioner to remove the belt from the motor and then pull the drum out. Or just use a stubby phillips screw driver to remove the bracket from the top of the ignition coils. Use a very small flat head screw driver to lift the locking tab on each electrical connector while removing. Remove the coils and place new ones in very same position (note the tab or key way of the coils faces up and are defined in the bracket). Re-assemble all parts making sure connections are tight and drum is correctly mounted. Note: if you remove the drum, return the belt back, in a loop, through the tensioner. This part hurt my head for a moment because I did not pay attention. Also a good idea to vacuum the debris and lint while your in there! As always check to make sure the exhaust pipe is clear. Have fun!

Open top of dryer, then remove front. Coils on lower left. Unplug and replace coils. Vacuum loose lint from bottom of dryer. Replace front then top of dryer. Test run. All good !

Followed directions from Youtube video

Removed the screws on the dryer vent and the back of the dryer top. Then I raised up the top panel and removed the screws that held the front panel on. I removed the front panel to access the coils. I replaced the coils and then the front and top panel and screws. All went well. The dryer is working properly now.

I removed two wires from the coil valves. Then I removed two screws from the bracket that holds the coil valves in place. I removed the faulty coil valves and replaced them with the new ones. Put the bracket back on and replaced the two screws and wires. It took almost 5 minutes. The dryer is like new once again.

Checked ignitor it was working ok, disconnected 3 pronged coil and disconnected 2 pronged coil using multi tester checked continuity on both coils both tested 0,with help of operator ordered M Series new style coil kit. When parts arrived installed coils attached wire harnesses installed bracket and 2 screws that secures coils. Started dryer it worked and stayed working who needs the Maytag Repair Man probably saved about 200.00 between service call and markup on coils. Thanks Virtual Repairman

Installed new coil, helped but have other issues that I'm troubleshooting.

replace two heating coils. Dryer working find.

I watched a video. The man speaking was Wayne from parts direct. He made the repair go so smoothly. I enjoyed watching him and I hope you include him in more videos. Had dryer apart and back together (after I had to take top back off, to re-attach the door switch, which I forgot. Had a senior moment!!) in 15 min.And working as good as new. Thank you Wayne. Have a nice day. Bryan

DISCONNECT THE POWER. (I got shocked a few times during the diagnoses stage). Remove the lint catcher. Pop the top of the dryer up (there are two plastic tabs along the front of the dryer. Remove the two screws for the lint catcher and open the top of the dryer. Loosen the screws between the side and front panels. Lift up on the front of the dryer to free it from the clips down below. Swing the front panel out of the way to avoid disconnecting the door-open-switch. Undo the two screws holding the bracket onto the gas burner regulator. Replace the coils. Reassemble in the reverse order. It was helpful to open the dryer door to help align the drum and front panels.

popped top up with flat screw-took out 4 screws (2 screws-1/4" nut driver - 2 phillips screws on bracket that holds coils in place) unplugged 2 wire lugs (1 three wire & 1 two wire) changed out bad coils screws back in-plugged wires back in -popped top back down .done

Well, this is quite easy really. I found the problem after plucking and chucking a few parts but it was finally the igniter that was the problem. After taking the front section panel off to access the components, take the time to unscrew the igniter and see if it is cracked. That is what happened to my unit. I replaced to the new M series coils as well but the issue was the igniter. Look very carefully for a crack, the one on my unit was very small. You can ohm it out with a meter and if it reads open it is cracked.

All the videos said the same thing. If the Igniter works and the gas ignites bit shuts off soon after that, then the coils are bad. I bought the coils and it didn't fix the problem. My bad, I should have put my meter on it to test it before I bought the part and waited a week to get the coils. Now I'm in the process of illuminating the sensors. I will figure it out. Make sure you use the meter. It will save you the headaches.

I used a socket to take of the front cover. I used a screwdriver to remove the two screws that held the coils in place. Replaced the coils and put everything backs together. Piece of cake!

I unplug the electric, close the gas valve, use the putty blade to prize up the top,unplug the electric horness, took the front door off, took the anker plate off the two coils, removed the wire from each coil,be careful not toget the wires mixed up one coil has two proms and the other has three proms after that u put everything back together the way u took it off!!