ADB1500AWS2 Amana Dishwasher - Instructions

remove 11 screws, remove old latch after disconnecting electrical wires, connect wires to new latch assembly, and replace 11 door screws. Easy breezy.

First, I recommend asking PartSelect for help to insure you have correct part. They tell me the pictures on the web site are provided by Maytag and are copywrited so they can't change them. The pictures are incorrect and misleading. However, it's a known problem, so the PartSelect people will steer you in the right direction. Bottom line in my case, I needed the lower cost part that included more pieces (counter-intuitive so I was glad I called). Got the right part the first time in about 3 days regular shipping.

As far as install, you need a "Torx" screwdriver (screw heads have a star-like pattern) to remove the screws along the inside of the door. From there, the old latch is accessible and easy to remove. As others have mentioned, the hardest part is removing the wire harnesses on either side of the latch. They have a slide on compression clip holding them on, and I think that time and ambient moisture must cause them to get stuck very tightly. I originally thought there was something locking them on, but in the end, I was able to pull and wiggle them loose with by applying slight inward pressure on the prongs with long nose pliers. You have to be careful not to damage the parts when attempting to pull them apart. It's nice that the part I ordered includes new switches, so if I caused any damge removing the old ones, it didn't matter. Just take extra care on the side with the wires and plastic connectors, since those parts aren't included and are more involved to replace if you damage them.

Overall, a very simple repair. The repair stories from others on the site were very helpful and gave me confidence when I ran into the small snag mentioned, since others had the same problem. Hopefully the additional detail I've provided on that issue will help fill any gaps.

First turned off power to dishwasher. Then, I removed all the screws on the dishwasher door. Removed old plastic door latch from wire assembly piece. Pressed on latches for square small wire boxes connected to wire assembly piece to be able to handle wire assembly plastic piece without attachment to dishwasher. Tried to snap door handle to wire assembly plastic piece, but didn't seem to fit - was too tight. Checked for discussion online and found that it required heavy pressure to snap in place. Used pliers to clamp down on outer plastic on wire assembly piece to squeeze fit door latch plastic hooks in place. This was difficult, but with heavy pressure finally managed to snap in outer hooks. Then with difficulty snapped in inner hooks. Was afraid of breaking new plastic piece, but all worked out well. Door has never opened and closed so well!!

All i had to do was ....first unplug the dishwasher,then remove 10 of the Torx head screws on the inside of the door.(from the top down)
With that done i could open the cover without taking it off. then unplug the switches,and replace the new handle.
screw the cover back in place.
done! piece a cake!
MD
PS (don't forget to plug it back in)

after reading a article on problems the logic one was frist the door. Order the part ,took off the inter panel with star slot (10)exposed the handle and switch. Removed it, abit hard at frist,then replacement went in easy , the washer worked.
I guess I was lucky because on the other side of handle similar type of part thats maytag for you.

First of all, rather then spending the 44 dollars on the main door seal simply cut yours in halve and trim a quarter of an inch from the disintegrated ends and use superglue and glue these ends together. this glued end will now be up top and in the middle and new clean ends will be down in the corners. next I removed the plastic door panel using a torxhead screwdriver, I just stuck the new inner foam pad on the old one. Then I glued rubber washers to the inner frame about 1/8 thick in the top 2 corners only. Finally I reattached the plastic door being careful not to tighten the torx head bolts just tight enough. It's dry and working good.

We took out old racks and installed the new ones. On another note, after ordering (or trying to order) parts from appliances older than 10 years old several times, I think manufacturers stop making parts after 10 years. So if you're thinking of replacing a part on an older appliance, try to look for it sooner than later.

Removed assembly holding the docking station to insure the passageway was clear. I reversed the flappers and noticed an improvement in cleaning then decided to order a new part. Installation was simple and the repair seems to have worked well.

The part broke off a while ago, and I did not want to call a repair person. The machine still ran, so I ran it with the part missing - the glasses were not very clean, but the repair call was expensive...

I figured that I had a snowballs chance of finding the part number on a molded plastic piece with no numbers printed on it. Boy was I wrong. I was able to choose the part off of a schematic of my machine right on the website and it linked me to the right part order form, so I did not even have to go back and find it on a list.

When the part came, all I had to do was unclip the old mount- with my fingers- no tools, and snap in the new part.

A for maytag for making it easy to fix
A+ for PartSelect for making it so darn easy

First, we removed all of the screws around the perimeter of the interior door panel and lifted it up. (we didn't take it completely off because that would have required disconnecting wires so we just held it up out of the way.)

Second, the plastic on the latch assembly was broken so that part came out fairly easily. The hard part was disconnecting the metal prongs that plug it in to the door control wires. We tried everything--prying, pulling--and finally got all three of us in there. One pulled on the latch end of the prongs, the other pulled on the door wiring end of the prongs, and I squeezed the prongs in-between with needle nose pliers. This broke the prongs on the latch side, which was fine since we were replacing the entire latch (the directions in the service manual we downloaded didn't give any indication that disconnecting the prongs would be difficult--I feel like there must be a trick to it, but breaking the prongs worked fine too!)

Third, we plugged in the prongs of the new latch--went in easily!--and popped the new latch into place in the door. It wasn't held securely, probably because of the broken plastic, but we replaced the inner door and screwed it in place, and when we shut the door it worked.

Accumulator was as easy as just removing srews and replacing the part. The Float I broke by accident and was more complicated to replace required 2 people to manage parts.
Dishes finally coming out clean!

Read the Q & A, watched the videos and tried not to drop any screws into the wash tub. Walter from Tucson, AZ made a great point about not overtightening any screws that bed into plastic.

Remove all interior door panel screws with a torx head screwdriver (drill). Pull the interior panel up from the door far enough to access the switch assembly. Pull it out and remove the 2 electrical connectors from the old switch (using a small screw driver as a pry bar if needed). Remove the old switch and handle (that may be broken off and still in the door). Push the electrical connectors onto the new switch assembly, making sure the handle is down toward the opening and the connectors are on the same side as they came off of the old switch. Align the mounting screw holes of the switch with the threaded holes on either side of the switch. Push the interior panel back together and align the two holes with the switch holes (those 2 screws go through the door panel and the switch assembly). Replace the remaining interior panel screws. Done!

Who ever assembled the parts for shipment, put the latch on backwards and it was extremely hard to take the latch off of the main part. Now matter how hard I tried, I was unable to re-attach the latch until I used a file on the plastic insert to file off the inside edges until they fit. It does work now, but it could have been made much easier if they had simply positioned the latch in the correct position in the first place.

If you have already figured out what the problem and the part number is, and have gotten this far, then you probably already know how to fix it and do not need instructions. But if you do, I took the following steps:

1) Use a #T20 star bit to remove the screws from the inner door panel. [Note: I would use a manual screw driver as opposed to a drill/driver, because you are less likely to accidentally strip the threads in the screw holes];

2) Lift the panel up and detach the wire harnesses from the metal receptacles attached to the old assembly.

3) Remove the old latch assembly, and then press the wire harnesses into the metal receptacles on the new assembly. [Note: You may have trouble getting the wiring harnesses out. If you pull hard enough you can get them off, but if you truly cannot, simply detach the metal receptacles from both the new and old latch assemblies and place the old metal receptacles on the new assembly with the wire harnesses still attached. If you choose this method, be careful with the little plastic retainer bars that secure the metal receptacles, they are pretty easy to break.];

3) Put the new latch assembly in its seating and re-secure the inner door panel. If you used a drill/driver before, I would really switch to a manual driver at this point.

4) Take the dishes out of your bathtub, and place them in the dishwasher.

5) Close the door back.

6) Stare.