ADB1400AWD4 Amana Dishwasher - Instructions

Long story short, noticed one of two leaks and came to conclusion there is no workaround since sump pump gasket seems to be hermetically sealed to sump pump. Which is understandable because of water in area. Wife helped by soaking other parts that were removed and replaced, because of calcium buildup. Which we hope will extend life of dishwasher. I put 1 to 2 hours because I took my time and made sure all parts fit correctly and were back in their original place. Didn't want to take any chances in not covering bases. I am no expert, but definitely a diy'er. I believed I saved myself anywhere from $200 to $300 in labor costs by repairman. By the way, thanks Parts Select your info and site are awesome!!! The second part I had to order was the water inlet valve and your phone representative was a big help over the phone, please don't eliminate those positions. Overall total price of parts approximately $130 w/delivery. Well worth it, since a brand new halfway decent dishwasher starts at $550.

At first, I figured the noise was coming from underneath, and took off the bottom front plate. I noticed there was a leak from the center of what I later learned was the "pump" assembly. So I unplugged the dishwasher, disconnected the water and drain from under the sink, unscrewed the screws holding it under the counter, and pulled it out from under the cabinet. Then I laid it on its back, and realized where the leak was coming from. At this point, I thought the noise had been coming from the motor. So I detached the motor (required use of a socket, and realized it was "free", so thought the problem must be further up inside. Reached my fingers in where the motor mounts and found part of the chopper assembly. The "chopper" had torn itself free from the screen. Realized at that moment I needed to disassemble the pump from the top. Took off water distribution system, bottom water rotor, pump plate (required use of "star" screwdrivers, two different sizes), foreign object plate, and chopper assembly cover. Getting the chopper assembly cover off was hard; had to pry it with sharp l-shaped poker; it was adhered with calcium deposits. Finally got it off, found rest of chopper assembly (screen with hole in the middle where chopper had been), ordered chopper from PartSelect, took 3 days, installation was easy, the reverse of removing it. (It is not necessary to remove motor to replace chopper assembly.) However, it is still leaking from the bottom, and I'm at a loss as to how to fix that.

I removed the upper dishrack easily by removing the end clips and sliding the tray out. Removal of the revolving sprayer was easy as it just clipped on to the bottom of the rack. The rack was not the rack that was ordered and I was informed that this was the correct rack for the dishwasher even though the description and picture was different that what I received. There were no instructions with the rack to explain how to attach the "flaps" that can go over lightweight dishes to keep them from flipping. Every way I tried to attach the flaps did not work. When I was able to attach one it would pop off if I raised the flap to place a dish underneath it. I finally gave up on the flaps and reinserted the rack onto the rails and put the end clips back in place. The rack works fine other than it is not the one that was described and was not the rack that I wanted.

The repair was easy, no instructions with the part. I had a bad leak the first go round, found out that I did not have it centered with-in the indentation on the door panel, so I got to install it twice.

Very simple just remove the rakes and then unscrew the covers and pop out the old chopper assembly and replace with the new and then just put all cover back and it works great.

Rubber friction sleeves on each side of the door provide resistance to prevent the door from quickly opening when unlatched. Over time the friction sleeve may crack and fail. Two friction sleeves are required for repair. Install a new sleeve on each side of the dishwasher door near the spring connector at the bottom.

Open dishwasher door.

Remove the screw from the left and right bracket at top of dishwasher door opening. Brackets secure the dishwasher to the countertop.

Gently pull the dishwasher forward to expose the door spring on each side of door at bottom.

Unhook the plastic spring connector from the left door spring hook by pulling the connector slightly forward and lifting from the door spring hook. Remove the old friction sleeve if still in place by sliding over the door connection hook. Discard the old sleeve.

Insert the new friction sleeve over the door spring connector hook and push until the friction sleeve is in position completely past the spring hook. Reconnect the plastic spring connector to the door hook.

Repeat for right side of door.

Close and latch the dishwasher door. Unlatch the door. The door should remain in the nearly closed position held in place by the friction sleeves.

Slide the dishwasher back to the original position under the counter top.

Insert the screws in the top brackets to secure the dishwasher.

I located the water inlet valve underneath. After moving the dishwasher out from the cabinet, I tilted it . Then I disconnected the black hose with the pliers . Using the adjustable wrench I unscrewed the water feed to the valve . I then unscrewed the valve from the frame and disconnected the wire plug by unlocking and slipping it away from the valve. To install I did all this in reverse.

Replaced the detergent dispenser using the directions on the shipping notice.

Fast,smooth,easy.

Was a simple task to perform, a child could have done it. The technical skills diagnosing it was a bit hard though. The skills finding the culprit was indeed simple. Rubber was torn. Dishes would not come clean especially on the top & would not dry properly. The rubber piece being torn in half made it hard for the water & soap to despense to the top through thh center plastic tube, but now it cleans great. Thank's
Now to find out why it won't dry properly at the heating element is another task. It leaves water droplets on the dishes.
Once I got the rubber screw on attachment installed the dishes are clean & dry now & no water dropplets on the dishes.
The water dispenses up to the top like it suppost to throught the small tube to wash the upper rack dishes.
The wife is happy now she doesn't have to clean & dry them by hand.
Thank's so very much!!
Now on to the next project in hand to submit later on.

The cause of the problem was that the chopper was worn out. As a result, the chopper screen was clogged with unchopped food bits. This severely reduced the amount of water getting to the circulation pump/impeller. This was what caused the spray arms not to spray. As a result of replacing the chopper, the dishwasher now works like new.

As far as how I did the repair, I followed the excellent how-to video provided by PartSelect that you can access when you click on the Chopper Assembly from the Pump and Motor Parts diagram for this dishwasher.

Followed the video. It works perfectly. Used a small paint scraper to remove stubborn scale where gasket seats. Used steel wool on door to assist in removal of rough scale.

I didn't finish the repair because there was a wrong seal in the kit. The factory impeller kit 8193951A from Whirpool comes with a totally different seal that I took out of the washer and the schematics from their own website and the manual shows the exact same seal that I removed, but is not even close to the one I received. I am stuck with a good dishwasher that I have to junk because of a $2 seal that whirlpool won't help me with. So much for customer service.

Snap new track stop into place. Took a few minutes to figure out top/bottom and inside/outside, but no issues

Just click in, you can basically do it with your eyes closed