ACS4250AB Amana Range - Instructions

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires.
Then I reconnected the wires to the new element and screwed it in to the oven back. Simple and inexpensive fix.

my wife did the the job and it was that easy. she took out two screws sliped the wires off put the two wires back on and put the screws in . She is a bank teller and teachers water aerobics

Two screws in the oven removed the old part and the wires unplugged from the unit. When the new part came in , it was plug and play. Plugged the wires into the new part, put part into holes in oven and screwed the screws back in place and we were ready to go. The part was here in record time. We ordered it on Sunday, it shipped out on Monday, it arrived on Tuesday and we were back in operation! Thanks for a really smooth repair experience!

r & r hinge. very poor pivot pin which leads to frequent replacement of hinge assembly, cheaply made, weak spot is hinge pin pivot rivet.

First removed 2 screws holding in element housing at the back of the oven. Pulled element out and disconnected wire leads from the the element connection points. Reconnected leads from new element, pushed back into the back of oven and rescrewed into the oven housing. Done, very easy.

Ordered hinge, went to Sears bought some tools to finish manufacturing the hinge, tapped out the screw hole, installed the hinge.

Pulled range away from wall and unplugged it. Pulled smoothtop out a bit to clear retaining clips. Swung top up and unplugged the cable going to top. Removed top hinge so top could be removed. Put top upside down on a table to work on. Removed wires from bad burner and then removed screws holding the burner in place. Replaced bad burner with new one and reversed the previous steps. Range worked like new. PartSelect service was great, received the part in one day.

turn the power off first, remove knobs, removed burners,disconnected wire from igniter,raise the top of the stove,re rmoved wire from the door lock removed two screws remove the door lock itself, then put all back on in same order as I remove. Main thing to remember is to writeyour colors of the wire down so you know where to replace them.

Discriptions provided by others in this section made it easy and there is little additional insight I can add. The part was delivered the next day. I don't reply to these requests for comments, as providing what I paid for is the expectation. But, this outfit did a good job.

Had to screw off old terminal block & screw on new one

I'm a woman that's very comfortable with tools, and this project took me about 3 hours because I worked slowly and meticulously. I first searched online for instructions and diagrams to disassemble the range top (which you provide on your site!); took the range top apart; disassembled gas cylinders; removed the clock assembly and found that the plastic "hinges" on the case "face" broke and that's why the clock assembly fell behind the stovetop. This piece is not available separately, so you have to purchase the entire electronic clock control assembly which is over $200. My clock control works perfectly, so I removed the clock overlay; cleaned the icky's off of everything; adhered the new clock overlay and then "McGyver-ed" the overlay case "face" back to the assembly with electrical tape, in a beautiful, not obvious way, and put it all back together. Re-hooked the gas and power and voila! It works! Cleaned up my mess and made some hot tea before bed. Now I can bake some cookies this weekend ?! Thanks for this site and the parts you offer! I'm a happy customer!!!

Unscrewed 2 screws holding the bracket on the back of the stove and disconnected the wires from the two clips. Removed back element, connected new elements & replaced screws to back inside wall of oven. Works like brand new!!

I went to the source of power on the stove and noticed one of the terminals had come loose from the terminal block and had shorted out against the cover of the terminal junction. After prying the loose terminal off cover I ordered new terminal block and received it the 2nd day. I removed the old terminal block and replaced the part in about 10 minutes..Thank you Parts Select for your easy to find diagrams and quick delivery.

Move stove away from wall to allow working on back of stove. Unplug stove. Remove metal cover from top rear of stove. Pull control knob off of control (front of stove) Remove 2 screws holding infinite control in place (front of stove) Replacement control not identical to original control, having more terminal lugs and different physical arrangement. I used the terminal letters as a guide for placement of wires. The letters were not exactly the same, but close enough. Re-attach control to stove with 2 screws. Re-attach back metal panel to stove. Shaft on replacement control is smaller diameter and different shape from original, so I removed ribs from inside of control knob hole and then squirted a small amount of hot glue into the hole. Smearing a small amount of cooking oil onto shaft of replacent control I then slid the control knob onto the control shaft, holding it in place until the glue cooled and set. Plug stove back in, and return stove to its position next to the wall.

Removed the old sensor which is held into the upper right of the back of the oven by removing the two screws and pulling the sensor out. Then disconnected the sensor from its connector. Replace the old with the new by simply clicking it into the connector. Then pushed the wire back into the oven wall and screwed the two screws back in. The whole job took about one minute to do after evaluating the process. While it was not necessary to remove the door, I did (which was very easy) and ended up cleaning the glass inside and out. All in all, a complete success. Oven working as new.