ACS3350AS0 Amana Range - Instructions

Removed the oven racks for room to work.
Removed a protective cover (slide forward, lift up).
Remove winged cover plate.
See igniter assembly.
Remove 2 or 3 holding screws (I don't want to go in and count them - it's obvious - they are clearly in view - get a good screw-driver seating - they come out easily).
The igniter assembly is then loose and ready to com out.
Remove the stove drawer to get at the access plate at the rear - comes off easily(the wires to the igniter were then clearly identifiable).
Release the wire plug - I marked one side with a sharpy - polarity of fit, not voltage.
Gently feed the igniter assembly out the bottom using the wires.
Remove the igniter from the shroud (may have to pul it apart a little - it's tight - it does come out easily after prying the shroud a little - mark a side with a sharpy - for mechanical orientation.
The part number should be on the igniter.
I did not bother matching the part number.
Just matched the stove brand and model.
The parts diagram provided by PartSelect was invaluable.
I put an ac meter up the holes of the plug (stove side, of course) turned on the stove to see the meter measure 115vac - assurance that the igniter was bad and not anything else.
Just reverse the removal process.
Just takes a little time and patience.
Very very doable.
Good luck.

First, I removed the oven door (two screws and pulled it off the hinges) and placed it out of the way. Then I removed the baking racks and bottom cover over the heating element this exposed the heating element, easily removed (two screws). I unplugged the old element, plugged the new element in, and put all the stuff back and the put the door back on. Next was the fun part. . . Had to get the wife to turn on the oven (very complicated touch pad - not made for a man to understand), and shazamm the oven came on! Now I can have some of those great homemade biscuits again!

Removed oven racks and bottom cover plate. Removed stainless steel diffuser to access igniter. Removed bottom storage drawer and unplugged connector for igniter. Removed defective igniter by by taking out 3 screws holding stainless steel mounting bracket in place. New replacement part had totally different bracket which prevented it from mounting in the proper orientation so I carefully removed defective igniter from original bracket and installed new igniter. New part was tacked in place by some sort of high temp adhesive that had to be carefully removed to allow it to be installed in old mounting bracket. Installed new assembly in the oven and when I tried plugging in the power connector I discovered the pins on the new igniter were the wrong sex; both sides had male pins! Removed igniter again and cut off the two pin connector and installed a brand new 2 pin molex type connector. I installed a mating connector on the original length of wire and connector that I cut from the defective igniter along with the heavy insulating material so I now had a properly mating set of connectors. Went through the mounting process again; successful mating this time. Oven lights in 50 seconds. If it dies again I'll have a connector of each
sex ready before repair.

I pulled the ckt breaker, removed the oven drawer and disconnected the igniter. I opened the oven door and unscrewed the igniter holding bracket and removed the bracket and igniter. I broke the old igniter element when removing it from the bracket. When installing the new igniter in the holding bracket I broke the ceramic element. REALLY BE CAREFUL. Ordered a new igniter, very carefully installed it in the bracket, then rversed the removal process. It's not hard, you just have to be careful

1. Removed racks
2. Removed bottom cover
3. Removed screws holding ignitor
4. Removed storage draw
5. Removed cover over wires
6. Unplugged ignitor & placed with new
7. Put back together

1. Remove sliding shelves and lower pan sheild
2. Remove flame deflector
3 . Remove the 3 screws that hold the igniter in place. Insert the new cable and plug through the opening for connection in step 6. You may hve access to connector. If so skip to step 8.
4. Remove sliding storage drawer
5. Remove the sheetmetal pan to gain access to the igniter connector. It might help to have several blocks of wood the elevate the frront of the stove to allow more working clearance.
6. Disconnect old igniter, connect new igniter.
7. Replace pan and sliding drawer.
8. Remove old igniter from carrier and install new one.
9. Install igniter carrier to stove with 3 screws
10. Replace flame deflector and lower pan sheild.

The repair was quite easy. Remove the two screws and put in the new part. The only problem I had was the hinge sent was the wrong side (but it still worked) and the new hinge had no threads for the screws. I had to tap the holes so that the screws could be used.

After I received the new hinge in the mail, my 13 year old son volunteered, for a fee of five dollars, to put the new hinge on the oven door. Seeing "easy to install" on the outer wrapper of the new part, I thought I was being generous. However, my son soon let me know that the screws given with the new hinge did not fit into the predrilled holes of the oven. He tried and tried for over an hour to get those screws to fit. I decided to go to the home improvement store to buy bigger screws. I took the hinge with me and had the store employee assess the type of screws I would need. He then informed me that the screws were fine, but I needed the holes in the hinge to be drilled bigger. I bribed him by offering to buy him a drink if he'd do it for me as long as he was single. He laughed and drilled away. (Sometimes, single women, like me, get desperate!) He handed me the hinge with larger holes and I noticed the wedding ring. Oops...no drink for him!! But I did give him a great big thank you. Happily, I brought the fixed piece home and handed it to my son to continue with the repair. He tried again and this time announced the holes were drilled too big!! If there was a bridge nearby I seriously would have jumped! The next day I drove to my Dad's house...a true jack of all trades...and with his drill and two new screws, he said this should do it. For the third time, I handed the hinge to my son and VOILA!! It actually worked! Thanks Dad!! So much for "easy to install". Seriously, the incorrect screws were sent with this hinge! Anyway, I happily celebrated that night with a drink in my hand...minus the home improvement employee!

Ordered a left & right hinge. Paid considerably more for the left hinge but both hinges were identical when received.
Bolt holes in both hinges were not tapped for the bolts which were sent with the hinges. This required a trip to the hardstore to get a tap set. After the bolt holds were tapped there was no problem removing the old hinges and installing the new ones.

remove cover bottom of oven slides out, remove three screws holding ignighter, problem i had was finding how to get to where the wire connects. there is a cover all the way in the back held by two screws this is found after removeing storage drawer on bottom.

I went online to learn what F-3 meant and it said temp sensor malfunction. I ordered the part - it looked the same so I repaced the old one and then the plugs were different. I cut the plug off the old sensor and cobbled together a connection. I powered up the stove and the burners were ok, but the oven appeared dead. about an hour later the alarm went off and it displayed F-1. I figured I needed to order another part, but hit Oven cancel and the display lighted up. I set the clock, heated to 400 and made a tray of cornbread. It seems to work ok, but I need to make a better arrangement. perhaps cut the new part connector off and splice the old connector. I don't like having electrical tape so close to the oven - it will probably melt with much usage. It is working - for now!

It took me a while to figure out how to access the igniter (I ended up removing the drawer and had to slide underneath the oven.) Once I removed the two sheet metal panels, I unplugged the old igniter and plugged in the new one. Installing the igniter inside the oven was easy--three sheet metal screws that hold the protective cover.

remove oven flare pan in bottom of stove, about 25 screws, lift out and remove igniter. tip stove back and remove splash pan from underneath, 2 screws, unplug ignitor and reinstall using reverse procedure. igniter is very fragile so be extremely careful with it. reuse old hardware to hold in place,reassemble and good to go.

I listened to see if the stove was igniting. It was not so we went with the igniter. It arrived in three days. I thin watched a u-tube repair. It was very helpful but looked as if a few steps were unnecessary. After reading the responses decided what steps could be eliminated and carefully replaced the part. It worked the first time. Besides handling the ceramic part very carefully the hardest part was remembering what screws went where! Extremely glad I took this on as a first time stove repair.

Thanks to this website I was able to quickly identify the needed part. A few days later I had it. To install the new part I had to open up the bottom inside of the oven to access the igniter assembly and remove the drawer to get to the connecting plug underneath. Four screws needed to be removed, unplugged the old part and plugged in the new part. Replaced the four screws to hold the igniter in place. Replaced the drawer and fired it up. Worked great!