ACS3350AC0 Amana Range - Instructions

remove oven flare pan in bottom of stove, about 25 screws, lift out and remove igniter. tip stove back and remove splash pan from underneath, 2 screws, unplug ignitor and reinstall using reverse procedure. igniter is very fragile so be extremely careful with it. reuse old hardware to hold in place,reassemble and good to go.

Removed covers. Unplugged and unscrewed oven igniter mounting screws. Pulled out failed igniter and slid in new igniter. Installed igniter in reverse order.

TIP: Many igniters will test correctly with meters. This is due to they will fail under a load (when in use) in the oven. But when testing with the meter they will test ok because they are not being put under the stress of use in the oven.

Baking ignitor glows but gas valve not opening. Replacing the bake ignitor solves the problem.

Here is how to do:
1) open the oven door, unload the racks, bottom plate, and flame deflector. unscrew three screws (phillips screw driver needed) to loosen the bake ignitor (along with the metal rack).
2) take out the bottom drawer. you should see two screw all the way at the back. unscrew them to take off a metal cover. you should see the connector. unplug to take off the defective ignitor.
3) plug in the ignitor and put everything back in reverse order.

It took me a while to figure out how to access the connector at the bottom back of the stove. The next time it should take less than 15 minutes.

All I would like to say is that I am very satisfied with the service I received from PartSelect.

I definitely would order from them again. By doing the work myself, I believe I saved $80 in labor costs.

Thank you

It took me a while to figure out how to access the igniter (I ended up removing the drawer and had to slide underneath the oven.) Once I removed the two sheet metal panels, I unplugged the old igniter and plugged in the new one. Installing the igniter inside the oven was easy--three sheet metal screws that hold the protective cover.

I listened to see if the stove was igniting. It was not so we went with the igniter. It arrived in three days. I thin watched a u-tube repair. It was very helpful but looked as if a few steps were unnecessary. After reading the responses decided what steps could be eliminated and carefully replaced the part. It worked the first time. Besides handling the ceramic part very carefully the hardest part was remembering what screws went where! Extremely glad I took this on as a first time stove repair.

this was the second one replaced in 5years,they don't make things like they used to

1. Disconnect oven electric supply.
2. Remove oven door (2 screws).
3. Remove inside-oven bottom plate (slide forward, lift).
4. Remove inside-oven burner cover (1 nut).
5. Disconnect igniter enclosure (3 screws).
6. Remove under-oven drawer (slides out).
7. Remove panel at back of oven in under-oven compartment to access igniter electrical connection (2 screws).
8. Disconnect old igniter.
9. Extract old igniter from igniter enclosure. (Don't use much force; just slightly expand the metal flanges of the enclosure.)
10. Dispose of old (bad) igniter.
11. Insert new igniter into igniter enclosure.
12. Place igniter enclosure in oven compartment and slide electrical connector through to back/lower compartment.
13. Connect new igniter in under-oven compartment.
14. Replace panel at back of oven in under-oven compartment (2 screws).
15. Replace igniter enclosure (3 screws).
16. Replace inside-oven burner cover (1 nut).
17. Replace inside-oven lower plate.
18. Replace oven door (1 screws).
19. Reconnect electric supply.

My husband did the repair. He removed the wires and screws from the element and replaced with new part.

I went online to learn what F-3 meant and it said temp sensor malfunction. I ordered the part - it looked the same so I repaced the old one and then the plugs were different. I cut the plug off the old sensor and cobbled together a connection. I powered up the stove and the burners were ok, but the oven appeared dead. about an hour later the alarm went off and it displayed F-1. I figured I needed to order another part, but hit Oven cancel and the display lighted up. I set the clock, heated to 400 and made a tray of cornbread. It seems to work ok, but I need to make a better arrangement. perhaps cut the new part connector off and splice the old connector. I don't like having electrical tape so close to the oven - it will probably melt with much usage. It is working - for now!

Ordered a left & right hinge. Paid considerably more for the left hinge but both hinges were identical when received.
Bolt holes in both hinges were not tapped for the bolts which were sent with the hinges. This required a trip to the hardstore to get a tap set. After the bolt holds were tapped there was no problem removing the old hinges and installing the new ones.

This is the second igniter I've had to install in the last 2 years. First time the repair was done by the company I bought the range from. $35. part/ 140. labor. I watched the repairman do the job. It is literally one nut, three screws, and an electrical plug and socket. Here's the interesting part of the story: the appliance store would NOT sell the part to me. They insisted on installing it themselves. NOT FOR $140. Thanks for your help, great and easy to use website. I spent the $140. I saved of golf. Thanks again!

Pulled the burner cover, removed two screws holding igniter in place, pulled oven out from wall and unplugged igniter at back, feed wire and plug back thru to oven. Removed old igniter from holder slid new one in place and reversed procedure to feed wires back thru to back side. Plugged in igniter replaced burner cover and pushed stove back into place. The procedure took about five minutes if that.

First, i removed all of the oven parts that needed to come out in order for me to remove the ignitor. Second, removed the manifold and the old oven ignitor. Then, i checked for 120 volts going to the ignitor. Replaced the ignitor with the new one and reassembled all of my oven parts. 15 mins top, but of course it may take a little longer for those of you who are not elecrically and mechanically inclined. Very east to repair.

I first diagnosed the problem with an ammeter, after I was sure of the problem I ordered the part and it came in 1 day early. When the part arrived I removed 12 screws to access the old part, unplugged it, plugged in the new one. The easiest way to save $150.00 I've managed.