ACS3350AB Amana Range - Instructions

very simple repair, the oven had the issue about ten years ago, just removed drawer ,removed two screws holding cover plate unhooked power and disconected plug. removed element screws and pulled out old element from holder and inserted new one. re attatched element holder, cover plate, and put drawer back in. works great !!!
My parts wrere shipped promptly and arraived in great condition, stove looks and works like new again

The repair was quite easy. Remove the two screws and put in the new part. The only problem I had was the hinge sent was the wrong side (but it still worked) and the new hinge had no threads for the screws. I had to tap the holes so that the screws could be used.

It was really easy because I read information on your site. I only had to unscrew 3 screws, remove the old spark ignition electrode, replace the new one and then screw the 3 screws back. It was great

Took the pan out of the bottom of the oven. Took the screws out of the assembly for the iron, disconnect the power wires under the stove and pull out the old iron. Reverse the proceedure but be careful with the new iron, it is very fragile. Connect the wires put the screws back and you are done. Make sure before you start the job that you unplug the appliance !!!!

1. Remove sliding shelves and lower pan sheild
2. Remove flame deflector
3 . Remove the 3 screws that hold the igniter in place. Insert the new cable and plug through the opening for connection in step 6. You may hve access to connector. If so skip to step 8.
4. Remove sliding storage drawer
5. Remove the sheetmetal pan to gain access to the igniter connector. It might help to have several blocks of wood the elevate the frront of the stove to allow more working clearance.
6. Disconnect old igniter, connect new igniter.
7. Replace pan and sliding drawer.
8. Remove old igniter from carrier and install new one.
9. Install igniter carrier to stove with 3 screws
10. Replace flame deflector and lower pan sheild.

After I received the new hinge in the mail, my 13 year old son volunteered, for a fee of five dollars, to put the new hinge on the oven door. Seeing "easy to install" on the outer wrapper of the new part, I thought I was being generous. However, my son soon let me know that the screws given with the new hinge did not fit into the predrilled holes of the oven. He tried and tried for over an hour to get those screws to fit. I decided to go to the home improvement store to buy bigger screws. I took the hinge with me and had the store employee assess the type of screws I would need. He then informed me that the screws were fine, but I needed the holes in the hinge to be drilled bigger. I bribed him by offering to buy him a drink if he'd do it for me as long as he was single. He laughed and drilled away. (Sometimes, single women, like me, get desperate!) He handed me the hinge with larger holes and I noticed the wedding ring. Oops...no drink for him!! But I did give him a great big thank you. Happily, I brought the fixed piece home and handed it to my son to continue with the repair. He tried again and this time announced the holes were drilled too big!! If there was a bridge nearby I seriously would have jumped! The next day I drove to my Dad's house...a true jack of all trades...and with his drill and two new screws, he said this should do it. For the third time, I handed the hinge to my son and VOILA!! It actually worked! Thanks Dad!! So much for "easy to install". Seriously, the incorrect screws were sent with this hinge! Anyway, I happily celebrated that night with a drink in my hand...minus the home improvement employee!

remove cover bottom of oven slides out, remove three screws holding ignighter, problem i had was finding how to get to where the wire connects. there is a cover all the way in the back held by two screws this is found after removeing storage drawer on bottom.

I went online to learn what F-3 meant and it said temp sensor malfunction. I ordered the part - it looked the same so I repaced the old one and then the plugs were different. I cut the plug off the old sensor and cobbled together a connection. I powered up the stove and the burners were ok, but the oven appeared dead. about an hour later the alarm went off and it displayed F-1. I figured I needed to order another part, but hit Oven cancel and the display lighted up. I set the clock, heated to 400 and made a tray of cornbread. It seems to work ok, but I need to make a better arrangement. perhaps cut the new part connector off and splice the old connector. I don't like having electrical tape so close to the oven - it will probably melt with much usage. It is working - for now!

Ordered a left & right hinge. Paid considerably more for the left hinge but both hinges were identical when received.
Bolt holes in both hinges were not tapped for the bolts which were sent with the hinges. This required a trip to the hardstore to get a tap set. After the bolt holds were tapped there was no problem removing the old hinges and installing the new ones.

Replaced the igniter. With the new igniter, the gas came on when the oven was turned on and lit with no problem.

this was the second one replaced in 5years,they don't make things like they used to

Identifing what part to replace was the most challenging task. So, what I did to trouble shoot what was broken and identify the specific compent was the following. I was not sure that the igniter was broken becuase it illuminated rather bright but the oven would not turn on. The broiler on the other hand worked fine so I removed the igniter from the broiler and placed it in place (the igneiter is a different size) of the oven igniter and guess what the burner cut on...So I ordered the oven igniter and everything worked fine.

I listened to see if the stove was igniting. It was not so we went with the igniter. It arrived in three days. I thin watched a u-tube repair. It was very helpful but looked as if a few steps were unnecessary. After reading the responses decided what steps could be eliminated and carefully replaced the part. It worked the first time. Besides handling the ceramic part very carefully the hardest part was remembering what screws went where! Extremely glad I took this on as a first time stove repair.

The oven door had a stripped thread so I took a knife and held up on washer and unscrewed it. I unplugged the oven. Then slide door off. Then removed pan in oven, then used socket wrench to take off burner sheild (reflector). Then You take out bottom drawer, in the back of opening there is a cover over the connections 2 screws. I unpluged the igniter. Now back in oven the igniter has a cage with 3 screws.. the screw was rusted and frozen. Needed to use WD40 on the screw and let set 10 mins. Now I could remove that screw and other 2 screws. With the cage off I was able to go to bottom where the drawer was and reach in and pull igniter completely out. Becareful not to break the anode it is fragle. ( the black piece) Then reverse and put the new one in. I actually swaped some of the rusty screws that gave me trouble with other screws in the oven that were the same, in case I have to do this again some time in the future. These previous comments from people were greatfully helpful!!!! Thank you!!!

Removed covers. Unplugged and unscrewed oven igniter mounting screws. Pulled out failed igniter and slid in new igniter. Installed igniter in reverse order.

TIP: Many igniters will test correctly with meters. This is due to they will fail under a load (when in use) in the oven. But when testing with the meter they will test ok because they are not being put under the stress of use in the oven.