ACM2160AB - Instructions

Easy, and the microwave still doesn't work.

inserted...simple!

took it out of the box and put it the micowave

I searched a few sites for a repalcement for our model.
PartSelect was BY FAR the EASIEST! I just entered the model number selected the part and that was it.
Other sites just weren't so easy even with the model nimber.
Shipping was lightning quick and resonable for the part.
I'd definitly use them again!

Take off cover then the bottom. Transformer is on the bottom plate and wires won't let it come all the way off, too many wires to pull off so will have to position the bottom plate so you can get to the motor. Remove 1 screw on motor and remove motor. Install new motor connect wires replace bottom plate, replace cover. All done (hope & pray it works ok) mine worked perfect. Hope this helps.

Initial failure of over range microwave Aug 3rd. Control Panel worked but no heat. Took to local LG authoriaed local repair place. They fixed it quickly and we re-installed it. Worked fine for 2 months then had similar failure again. Agaim took to same authorized repairer. They kept unit for 3 months but finally concluded theu could not fix it and suggested we contact LG for a partial refund. When they tested the unit during re-assembly in my presence, there was a blue flash and the fuse blew. Since we had built a custom tile mural back splash around this unit, I brought it home, ordered a number of time delay fuses new capacitor and two new high voltage diodes. However, using my Fluke DMM, I checked the existing capacitor and high voltage diode and they checked OK so I just replaced the time delay fuse. The high voltage transformer leads had 2 possible ways to connect to capacitor and diode. Tried one way, plugged unit in and turned it on, and immediatly blew the fuse. Replaced the fuse and reversed the high voltage transformer connections,amd turned unit pn, and it worked perfectly. Since we had experienced several power failures during the time of the original failure, the repairer concluded that power spikes might be at fault, so I also purchased a TrippLite ISOBAR4ULTRA 3300 Joule surge protector between wall outlet and microwave, and re-installed over range. It has worked perfectly since.

unplug the unit then pull down , lot of screws are on top. open the cover . you could see the parts that need to replace on the right hand side (heavy side). disconnect wires then test the parts that need to replace by a tester to make sure that it's really broke .then unscrew part and replace .

Unplug.Take off the external cowling from the back of the unit by removing the torx security screws. Tip: instead use a thin screwdriver blade to unscrew the torx screws, or knock out the center pins of these screws. Remove the bottom panel. The replacement motor is attached with one phillips screw, re-attach wires to motor - polarity doesn't matter. Re-assemble and you're finished.

I UNPLUGGED the microwave and removed the cover, using a phillips and a Torx screwdriver for the machine screws. I set these screws aside, so as not to confuse them with the later encountered screws. I photographed the magnetron to assure proper placement of the 6 phillips machine screws involved in reassembly (marking the the locations on the old magnetron would do as well. I marked the old magnetron "old", to avoid later confusion. I removed the two screws holding the shields to the magnetron. I removed 3 of the 4 screws holding the magnetron to the microwave, leaving one of the top screws. I held the magnetron securely and removed the last screw, pulling out a the part of the magnetron that penetrated the microwave. I installed the new magnetron in reverse order. One problem I encountered was locating one of the six screws, which had been pulled into the old magnetron by magnetism.

Ice covered the top back of the freezer compartment. This did not allow the cold air to move up to the fridge. Complete defrosting (36hrs) fixed the problem. There was a lot of water, from ice inside, that was not visible. We realized the freezer drawer must have been left cracked open. Thanks so much.

hardest part was taking the microwave down off of the wall to gain access to the diode. Thought if was the transformer but ended up being just a blown diode. remove and replace and bench test. that part took 15 minutes . moral of the story don't boil water under the side of the microwave that holds the electric components.

"PIECE OF CAKE" Removed cover,removrd bulb, replaced bulb, replaced cover. "PIECE OF CAKE" P.S. Wife is happy.

I removed the outer cover of the microwave and removed the bottom palte to access the small motor. i unplugged the old motor from teh wiring connector, removed (1) screw and motor came out. I reversed the proceedure with the new motor and it was finished.It was a piece of cake.

The built-in microwave was removed by taking off the front plate that was secured by 3 screws at the bottom. The unit was moved to the side slightly so that the power cord could be disconnected. Then the entire unit was withdrawn. The outer shell of the unit was taken off by removing the six screws holding it in place. The shell may need to be shifted slightly to separate it from the unit. Once removed, the bracket latch and opening mechanism for the door was revealed. The latch is inserted simply by aligning the two nipples with the correponding holes in the opening mechanism and gently pushing it into place. The latch is plastic and appears to be vulnerable to breakage over time through constant use, so I have ordered a spare should the problem reoccur.

Ordered the switches from Partselect, arrive in two days. Had trouble removing the plastic connectors from the old switch terminals, one of the plastic protectors broke, but was able to reuse it. It took a little figuring out how to remove the existing switches. Must push in a tab and rotate the switch on a little pin, then remove. Must be careful not to break the plastic tabs holding the switches in place. Replaced all (3) switches at the same time. All in all it was pretty easy.