ABR2522FES0 Amana Refrigerator - Instructions

My son (who does HVAC, but not appliance repair) did some investigating by taking front and back panels off and determined that the evaporator coil was freezing over because the defrost wire was not heating up. He and his girlfriend did some real-time internet searching for diagnostic info because NO control diagram was included with the refrigerator. He determined the problem was most likely the electronic control board. Ordered and installed a new board and the refrigerator is back to working fine. Took about 2 hours to diagnose the problem and 1/4 hour to actually install the control board. Kind of disappointing that this control board failed when the refrigerator was less that 4 years old.

I initially tested the heating element and defrost thermostat using an ohm meter. the defrost thermostat was incased in ice, so I replaced it first. The refridgerator worked for about a week and then froze up again. I then replaced the thermistor and the unit is working as designed.

I broke the glass in the frig and found partselect and ordered the new glass and had it in 2 days. Very fast shipping.

Removed the 3 screws that hold the ice maker in place and remove the cover and level wire. Put the cover and wire on new part and install the 3 screws. Had ice within 1 hour. A very easy job for the do it yourselfer. Suspect the heat coil that melts the cubes was not working in the old unit and cubes stayed in the tray.

Watched video. Unplugged refrigerator and popped out switch. In plugged connector and pushed switch in place. Plugged in refrigerator and the light worked

When the gasket is delivered it will be folded. You will need to unfold it and leave it on a flat surface for several days. Keep it as square as possible, and heat the kinked portions with a hair dryer on high heat and slow fan while molding kinked portions with your hands for 30 to 60 seconds at a time. Do that 2-3 times per day. When it looks 90% uniform with the non kinked portions, you can install it. Installation takes less than 10 minutes. Clean the metal edge of the freezer well. I recommend taking the door annd frame off (This is remarkably easy. THe door and frame pretty much lifts up and out after you hold the rail clips inward) because the lower edge is so close to the floor. The just pulll off the old gasket. There are no screws or clips. Starting in any corner, press new gasket into place. Go around the perimeter several times to make sure it is pushed in fully and evenly. Then reinstall the door and frame.

Replaced the relay and capacitor it runs.

Cut old fill tube into pieces, removed and replaced with new tube. Extremely easy.

The parts were very easy to replace, however I am still without ice and cannot figure out why. I have ohm tested the contol unit and everything works fine, I am able to jump it and turn on the motor and water fill valve. Any suggestions?...

Don't try and remove the front/handle from the broken pan, you will break it and its double the price of the pan, just use the small hammer to break the pan into smaller pieces and remove handle from them then the handle will just snap onto the new pan. Piece of cake!

Failure detected as Damper Control at upper rear of compartment would continuously open/close, would never stay open or closed. Sometimes the main board would turn it off (maybe a low thermistor limit?), but it would stick open a bit, and keeping letting freezer air into fridge. Could have potentially been control board, but as it turns out after disassembly of the defective damper, the internal microswitch was stuck in the closed position so it wouldn't shut off the motor. Easy fix by gently pulling the cover off the damper control, pull out Styrofoam encasement, then a phillips to remove the damper assembly. Gently push tabs to release wire connectors. Reverse the process and you're done! If I really wanted to go on the cheap, I could have just changed the microswitch, but that looked like a shaky maneuver at best. This site saved me on this one, so happy to share my experience with this Maytag and its nasty habit of freezing my milk and eggs!! :)

Popped off the control panel at the top behind the door. Found the thermistor and replaced it, cutting the wires and splicing the new one in. Immediately the warm section of the refrigerator was getting below freezing temperature readings, so the cooling vent was not opening. I put the old one back on and the temperature readings went back to being accurate. So this was not the problem. I believe now that the fan somehow is not blowing enough cold air up. So now I'll probably buy a fan motor and maybe a blade and try that. Otherwise the computer module I priced at $500 so I hope it isn't that. I replace the fan motor a few years ago already.

Referencing the info/schematics you have on your website, I unscrewed/unattached top-front panel (carefully), from behind the panel you have to detach the wires (2) from the switch, pushed "in" the switch to remove, put in new switch and attach wires to test BEFORE remounting panel. Tada!! Thank you PartSelect! You saved me at least $80...would have been at least $100 to have a repair person come to the house!

replaced inlet valve per insert with part, easy

Simple placement of new glass pane into crisper top