ABB2522FEQ11 Amana Refrigerator - Instructions

It was a very simple operation to replace the parts and required essentially no tools, just a small screwdriver to pry up a tab for removal of the chanel on the front edge of the frame. This chanel had to be removed from the old crisper frame and installed in the new one. In addition the crisper control" had to be popped out of the old frame and into the new frame. Most of my time was spent cleaning.

We came home from a long vacation to discover a warm refrigerator with its contents in various stages of decay.

Turning the freezer thermostat to its warmest setting then back to cold generated clicks, and after a few tries the compressor started and cooled the refrigerator to its normal cold temperatures. But… later the compressor again failed to start, and everything warmed back up again. With persistence and turning the thermostat up and down several times a day, we could keep the fridge cold.

It was time to order parts. We needed a new start relay and capacitor for the compressor. For our Amana ARB2214CW a start relay (WP12555902) and capacitor (WP65889-4) were listed on the first page of the Partselect parts list for my refrigerator. I ordered them, received them, removed the old capacitor and start relay (which rattled when shaken). and prepared to install my new parts. The new start relay did not match the old. The old start relay fit my wiring which had a single plug with two small female spade connectors in the plug. The new start relay required wiring with two separate female spade connectors; one the normal size and one larger. Phone calls to Partselect and to Westinghouse shed no light on the discrepancy. On the second page of the Partselect parts list was a combination of a start relay and a capacitor (W10613606) that matched my electrical connector. I could see the connection in the photograph. I ordered it and it fit. Easy peazy. That fixed the compressor start problem. Every time the freezer thermostat clicked on, the compressor started. Success.

But… from our troubleshooting we now had a thermometer the freezer, and it was obvious that the temperature difference between the cold point where the thermostat turned the compressor off and the warm point where the thermostat restarted the compressor was much too wide. In addition, the knob was hard to turn and was sticky as it turned. Oiling it fixed the sticky knob problem but not the wide temperature difference problem. I ordered a new freezer thermostat (WP67003000), received it, installed it, and all is now fine with my refrigerator. The new thermostat was physically a little different from the original, but it fit and worked.

I returned the first compressor start relay and capacitor and received a refund including the shipping charge.

Remove rail and removed broken black plastic spring mechanism with new one and then replace rail.

Removed the door and replaced the broken door closure bushing. I had courteous help and responce from Parts Select people. Excelent turn around time on parts delivery.

Instructions were great five minutes to remove and replace fan....Thank You............ saved big money

Easy fix, it's right in the back of the fridge under a cover that just clips in, a piece of foam, and two screws. The hardest part is getting the clips free without breaking them. After replacement it's silent instead of making a grinding noise regularly.

Pop off vent cover remove 2 screws removed cover housing and foam. Removed damper by unclipping tabs on left and right side of control lift up and out. Unplugged power wires reinstalled in reverse order.

1. Removed the icemaker door
2. Removed the two screws from the underside of the icemaker unit
3. Removed the slide-on plastic cover that protects the power cable connector
4. Removed the icemaker unit
5. Removed the two screws from the control unit
6. Pulled the control unit from the icemaker unit
7. Installed the new control unit and reinstalled the icemaker assembly

A repairman wanted to charge me $250 to do what I did in about 20 minutes for about $120.

First, I shut off the water going to the refrigerator, then removed the ice bin. Then I loosened the two screws on the top of the ice maker (the one toward the front was a little tricky, since you can't see it at all), then removed the screw that fastens the lower bracket to the side of the frig. Then I lifted up on it slightly to remove it from the two upper screws, then unplugged the wiring harness from the side of the refrigerator and lifted the whole unit out of the frig.

I then removed the plastic cover on the front of the ice maker, pressed on the tab to remove the wiring harness from the old ice maker, and installed it on the new ice maker. I then removed the metal arm from the old ice maker and installed it on the new unit as well. The last part that I moved from the old ice maker to the new one was the lower bracket, as the bracket on the new ice maker was bent during shipping.

Once those parts were swapped, I put the plastic cover on the new ice maker, plugged the wiring harness back into the side of the frig, routed the fill tube into the back on the ice maker assembly, and set the unit back on the two upper screws. I then put the screw back in the lower bracket, tightened the two upper screws, and then put the ice bin back in and turned the water back on. After a couple of hours, I threw out the first couple of batches of ice and it is now working as it had in the past.

I also noticed, when looking at the old ice maker, that the black plastic coating was coming off the ice cube tray, so it was a good time to be replacing it anyway. Overall, a very easy job (I was prepared for swearing, parts being slightly off, etc.) and it would have been a shame to have paid someone to do it.

Used socket set to remove screws. Removed the wire harness, then removed lift arm from old ice maker and then put lift arm on the new ice maker. Reinstall wire harness then installed back in freeze with the screws. Video was very helpful. I will do business with Partselect in the future. Shipping was very fast. Thanks Partselect

I was getting small sections of ice and a snow like build - up around the freezer door. I thought that the door was not sealing tight enough and that the cold air was leaking out. The original door gasket appeared to not have any flexibility anymore and was getting hard. I ordered a new door gasket from PartsSelect. When the gasket arrived it was in a large enough box and that saved me some time as the gasket was not "crushed" to the point where there were a lot of kinks in the gasket. I used a hair dryer on low to warm the gasket and stretch it out some. The freezer door required me loosening four small screws and lifting the door off. I placed the door on an old blanket so not to scratch the finish. It was easy to remove the old gasket and after doing so I cleaned the track where the new gasket was to go with isopropyl alcohol, Once cleaned, I placed the gasket over the channel in the door where the old gasket had been and started installing the new gasket. I started at the corners and you can feel the gasket snap into place. Once the four corners were done I started at the top and installed the gasket the rest of the way. You can feel it snap into place. as you work your way around the gasket channel. Once the gasket was in place I placed the door on the four small grooves where the door had been and tightened up the screws. I made sure that no white from the inside of the freezer door was showing after the gasket was in place and that the gasket had some "spring" to it. The door was back on, the gasket was tight and it appeared to be a good seal. Around 12 hours later I checked the freezer and there was no more ice or "snow" on the edges of the freezer. While the gasket was not inexpensive, it is a genuine OEM piece, and the gasket is a lot cheaper than a new refrigerator!
I hope this was helpful...

First shut off water supply and unplug power. Unscrew icemaker assembly from side wall with 3 screws. Remove front cap and you can clearly see module. Unscrew and remove module ( only three screws). Install new module and revers procedure to finish up. Ice was ready in just a few hours. Video provided by this site was right on and left no questions.

1. Turn your water OFF and pull the refrigerator out from the wall so you can access the back.
2. Use pliers to remove tubing clamp.
3. Remove old water fill tube.
4. I used a putty knife to gently pry out the old fill tube from the back of the refrigerator. Once the fill tube pulls out about 1/4 to 1/2", then you can gently pull the remainder of the tube out by hand. Once I removed my "old" fill tube, that is when I saw the "ice plug" that was causing pressure in the water supply line and caused my water line to pop off.
5. Install new fill tube. The end that goes in first needs to go through a small "ring" inside the freezer (this "ring" is not encountered until the fill tube only has about one more inch to be inserted into the back of the refigerator. I could barely see this "ring" if I opened the freezer drawer and stuck my head in as far as I could. I had to gently rotate the new fill tube until it cleared the "ring". You will feel some resistance until it lines up properly.
6. Snugly push in the part that stays on the outside of the refrigerator until it looks like it is sealed.
7. Gently push up the water fill tube where it belongs in the new part and replace the tubing clamp.
8. Turn your water on and make sure there are no leaks (I left my refrigerator out for about an hour).
9. Push your refrigerator back in place.

Ordered new fan motor
Got part took fridge apart
Result was the motor was running
The fan blade had come off the motor
Replaced the motor anyway and reinstalled the fan, working well

Removed the 2 screws holding the light bulb shield, then the 4 uolding the metal panel. Unplugged the olw door switch and replaced.
reassembled the pieces.