ABB2224BRW01 Maytag Refrigerator - Instructions

Remove the light cover. Use a flat head screw driver to push in the tabs on the back of the program mount and pull down to expose the computer board. The Thermistor is clipped on under the vent holes on the right side. Cut both wires to remove the old thermistor strip a 1/4 inch off the remaning wires and the new thermistor wires twist both ends together crimp on the wire caps snap in the new thermistor reinstall the program board until the retainer clips snap into place, slide the light cover back on.

Freezer would get cold at bottom and some of the refrigerator. Took of freezer back panel and located freezer fan. Took a meter and saw power was getting to it, but not working. Removed fan and replaced with new on, working like a charm. Cold air was not circulating enough throughout the unit because fan was not working. It was not the thermostat or adapter control.

Took drawers out, inserted the rail and put the drawers back in and voila. Fixed.

Unplugged and empty refrigerator, completely defrosted refrigerator using a hair dryer to speed up the defrosting, put a lot of towels on the floor to soak up the water when the ice melts. Removed all refrigerator racks and drawers, then remove the white plastic and styrofoam condenser cover. You will then see the thermistor, cut the two small wires connecting the thermistor to the harness leave yourself as mush wire as possible. Splice in the new thermistor and put the refrigerator back together.

It was great. We replaced the thermistor A little difficult to get to the thermistor but once we found it five minutes. My refrigerator seems happy but we will monitor it and see.

tested bulb good ,replaced door switch first(least expensive)then ordered light socket and circuitboard.If clicking sound is heard replace circuitboard first to save on return shipping because the switch and socket where ok

I took the screws out of back panel and slid water line and panel off to the right side while I removed the capacitor and starter relay. Relay was probably the only problem, but I replaced capacitor too while I was doing the repair. Finished removal and replacement in about 20 minutes. While I had panel off I cleaned coils that I could see from behind and then did the same on front side. Cost was $136 for both parts. I could have done it for $71 if I did not replace the capacitor too. Saved my daughter from being taken advantage of.

The repair seemed simple, I just needed to remove the old bracket -- 4 screws -- and slip the new one on.

The tricky bit is that the roller bracket holds the weight of the fridge. So in order to make sure that the fridge did not fall over, and to keep the installation point off the ground so that I could align the screw holes, I needed to shim up the side of the fridge that I was working on.

To tap in the shims, I used a hammer and a spare chunk of wood. I ultimately used 3 shims, and kept tapping until the roller wheel could roll freely. Then I knew that the fridge was high enough. After that, it was pretty easy to remove the 4 screws, align the new bracket, and replace the screws. After that, in order to get the shims out I could just extend the foot brake as it was designed, and that lifted the fridge enough for me to easily slide out the shims. After that I just had to level out the fridge by adjusting the two feet.

Removed door from slide bars with small nutdriver, pulled old gasket out of retaining slot, cleaned slot & area around it, pressed new gasket into place with fingers, relatively easy. Used hair dryer to make sure gasket was formed properly and contacted fridge unit eavenly.

replaced broked crisper pan with new pan

I was easily able to find the part using the online search. I order the part and it arrived in about two days. Installing the part meant pulling out the two crisper drawers, emptying the shelf above the crispers, removing two glass shelf plates, inserting the new part, replacing the glass plates, replacing the food on the shelf and sliding in the two crisper drawers. All in all, about 3 minutes.

Watched Partselect video of P-trap installation.Removed water line & back cover& disconnected wires to water solenoid .Removed old drain tube & old problematic rubber funnel. Used contact cleaner to clean rubber residue from drain line and used a little silicone to aide reassembly. Job went well thanks to video.

unplugged the unit pulled it away from the wall removed the lower panel removed the drain installed the new replacement . removed the wiring harness and replaced it with the new one replaced the panel and plugged back in

I watched the video provided on-line in your website, which was excellent. The information provided gave me everything I needed to change the board. I already had experience handling control boards and was aware of the static precautions; however, your paperwork was very good detailing how to program the new board. The only small problem I had was reinstalling the temp sensor in its bracket. The lead was very short. Other than that, all went well! The project took between 20 and 30 minutes.

I watched video for repair and it went just like it showed. piece of cake