A24CA Maytag Washer - Instructions

Removed two screws and lifted the control console then tilted forward the shell. Removed two screws holding the latch cover and assembly then disconnected two wires. I played with the assembly until I discoved the element was toast. Ordered the part but when I got it I was confused because it had three prongs (two on one side and one on the other) when the burnt one had only one and one and I only had 2 disconnect wires. I thought I had gotten the wrong part but figured it out. Actually putting the assembly together was the easy part, trying to get the outer shell back together was a little tough. Between taking it a part, figuring out what was wrong and ordering and receiving the part was about three weeks. So when putting it all together took awhile but I did it and it works great.

Turn water off, removed water hoses. removed plug from elec. outlet.Then remove water inlet valve.very simple.

I turned the water off, detached the hoses and unscrewed the water inlet valve. I unhocked the wires and reattached the wires in the correct sequence on the water inlet valve. Done in 15 minutes.

After turning the water off and unplugging the machine, I took the front panel off the washing machine. I then slipped the belt off the pump sprocket. The pump was right in the front and easy to remove. All I needed was a screwdriver, for the hose clamps, and a 5/16" socket to remove the old pump. I then installed the new pump, with the existing screws, re-attached the 2 hoses, slipped the belt back on, and popped the front panel back into place. The new pump works great and the leak is gone. The whole job onlt took about 30 minutes.

Washer originally purchased from Sears. Called Sears for repair. $65.00 to show up. Diagnosed the problem as a Bad belt and pump. Asked for approx. $250 to repair. I declined and ordered a belt and pump from PartSelect.com for half the cost. Took 10-15 minutes to install. Turned the washer on and put it through a drain cycle, it leaked all over the floor. Turns out the only problem was a cracked Outer Tub to Pump Hose. It took about 10 minutes to install. Whala, no leak. Now while I purchased an un-needed pump and belt from PartSelect.com, not their problem. Even though I purchased two items that were not required, the cost was still half of what Sears wanted to charge me for a repair that would not have fixed the problem. I will certainly continue to use and recommend PartSelect.com.

Found the 35 year old Water injector hose was dry, brittle, and cracked. Found the new part online at a reasonable price, but was unsure if the seal came with it or not. At $3 it was worth the gamble to buy the seal. Turns out that it did come with it so in another 35 years, I'll be ready ;-) Simple replacement of the hose, one hose clamp and fitting the lip of the new seal into the hole in the top of the tub. Access was gained quickly by removing the front panel (2 phillips screws) then removing 2 sheet metal screws in the front top corners and swinging the hinged top upwards. Piece of cake.

Lets just say thank god for part select!!!! # 1 By far. This was a one two three job.

Removed the damaged legs, replaced with parts from this site and leveled the washer .

Found noise to be belt slapping the base sheet metal, from being too loose. Belt was loose because the drive pulley was worn and one side of pulley was loose! Used allen wrench to loosen the pulley set screw, and pryed off the old pulley. Replace d with new pulley and new belts. Works and sounds like new!

Easily

You will need 2 hose clamps not sold as maytag parts.

Remove front washer panel screws.

Remove bolts holding front of top to side panels

Remove hose clamp from front hose to injector sleeve.

Twist fill hose ccw 90 degrees at tub fitting to remove.

Clean corrosion at tub attachment point wuth wire brush.

Paint bare metal to seal. Allow to thoroughly dry.

Remove injector sleeve and injector hose.

Trim new injector hose to match length of removed hose (I cut off abt 4 inches)

Install injector hose and plastic sleeve. Ensure clocking is correct on hose.

Install gasket on fill hose fitting.

Insert fitting into tub. Rotate 90 deg CW to latch.

Install gear clamps loosely on fill tube.

Attach fill tube to fill fitting and injector sleeve.

Slide clamps onto tube ends ensuring clamp clocking provides access and clears tub top..

Test tub fill to ensure injector works without leaks

Removed top. Removed agitator and tubs . Replaced seals and reassembled.

Did repair as instructed by video, I'm 74 years old if I can do it anybody can!

My washing machine would only run hot water. Told my husband and we were ready to call the repair man when I suggested we try to order a part. So I Googled "washing machine repair". Clicked on the first sight I saw and 'searched 'no cold water' amd immediately saw explanation of our exact problem. The solution explained that MOST of the time the problem was the water inlet valve. So I ordered the part. My husband put the part on the machine and the process would have taken less than 10 minutes however the clamp was so rusted to broke and that required a trip to the hardware store. But I suppose clamp-life does not exceed 20 years. So mission accomplished and a great big thanks to all those who explained what they did to solve the problem!

Cleaned the cavities. Lubed them with olive oil. Inserted one ball on left side, while holding tension against that side to hold the ball in the lid and top indentations. Applied olive oil to right hand side indentation, and placed the new ball into lid indentation. Put lid down into closure cavity with ball, and with lid vertical, began pushing it rearward so as toslightly spring metal lid rolled edge and top metal away from one another UNTIL the new ball snapped into the hinge indentation in the machine cover. Done.