A23CDW Maytag Washer - Instructions

Cleaned the cavities. Lubed them with olive oil. Inserted one ball on left side, while holding tension against that side to hold the ball in the lid and top indentations. Applied olive oil to right hand side indentation, and placed the new ball into lid indentation. Put lid down into closure cavity with ball, and with lid vertical, began pushing it rearward so as toslightly spring metal lid rolled edge and top metal away from one another UNTIL the new ball snapped into the hinge indentation in the machine cover. Done.

My washing machine would only run hot water. Told my husband and we were ready to call the repair man when I suggested we try to order a part. So I Googled "washing machine repair". Clicked on the first sight I saw and 'searched 'no cold water' amd immediately saw explanation of our exact problem. The solution explained that MOST of the time the problem was the water inlet valve. So I ordered the part. My husband put the part on the machine and the process would have taken less than 10 minutes however the clamp was so rusted to broke and that required a trip to the hardware store. But I suppose clamp-life does not exceed 20 years. So mission accomplished and a great big thanks to all those who explained what they did to solve the problem!

Instead of replacing one damage hose, i decided to replace the whole piece. the second hose was old and i figure ill just take care of one problem now and prevent a future problem. it was as simple and quick, save me some money from hiring a repair man. it was also a learning experience.

1. Unplug machine.
2. Removed front cover,(2 screws).
3. Removed top cover,(2 screws).
4. Remove hose at top (twist lock), loosen clap holding hose at bottom.
5. Reverse procedure, attach clamp at bottom, attach hose at top(twist lock).
6. Plug in machine, turn on (fill), check for leaks.
7. Re-attach top
8. Re-attach front.

I unscrewed the bottom two front phillip screws. Lifted the front panel at a right angle then popped off downward. Used a 3/8 socket to unscrew the two screws inside in the upfront corners holding the top to the sides. Pulled off the top bleach line.
Lifted the lid upward until it rested on the back wall. Unscrewed the water fill tube connected to the top side panel which to reach the inlet valve area. wrote down which color of the four wires went where. Unscrewed the back plate and disconnected the valve wires. Reversed procedure for installation. Cleaned other parts while I was in there. Installation went quick and smooth.

After figuring out how to open the washer I could not find where the leaking water had come from. I ran the washer without the front cover (cold water) and it didn't leak. When I finally accidentally blocked the intake on the tub did it squirt out inside the washer. It turned out that it would only leak with both hot and cold water combined was the pressure big enough to leak. The place it leaked was about halfway between the intake valve and where it entered the tub in what looked like a small plastic housing with slots. The functionality of this thing is still in question. I call it the Kazoo because it makes noise so you can tell the water is going in. I can see that it also holds back pressure so the washer does not fill too fast if the incoming pressure is too high, but I have my doubts about this. It turns out the intake hose is interrupted with by a jet inside a 3 inch black rubber tube (valve) that extends into the second hose. The water pressure expands the rubber (valve)and makes noise. The way I see it old rubber had maybe shrunk and lost its ability to resist pressure so it overflowed because too much water was coming through. The new piece I ordered was 3/8 inch longer then the one that came out. Maybe a planned obsolence part. (My wife wanted to buy a new washer and dryer at the first sign of trouble.) Anyway the repair was pretty simple. No clamps needed the old one is easy to undo and you just replace the kazoo. By the way while I was waiting on the parts to get here I just throttled the water pressure on the wall so it wouldn't leak. On this maytag washer you take off the screws on the front towards the bottom to start. I did not notice them untill I had damn destroyed the lid. After you remove the front cover there are 2 screws in the top front corners to remove and the the top pops off. They repair is easy understanding it took some thinking. Good luck.

The three parts fit together to form one unit. As has been mentioned here already I'm not sure what purpose they serve. I'm also not sure how replacing them stopped the leak but it did. If it had not stopped I think I could have bypassed the valve entirely with a piece of hose or PVC and had it work just fine.

Removed the bottom belts to inspect. Belt for tub was well beyond it's service life. Belt for pump was OK. ordered the pair and replaced. When the washer was started the agitator still did not move. With power off I grabbed the agitator and pulled upward a few times then twisted it from side to side a few times. No change. Then I did the same with it with powered up ( a bit dangerous ). The agitator then ran OK.

There are two screws that hold the switch in place. And two wires connected to the switch. The most difficult part of replacement is to place the new switch and hold it in place to reinstall the mounting screws. The space to work in is limited unless you remove the front panel from the dryer, which I opted not to do.

well i first put on 2 new belts because they were worn and smoking. the new belts did not fix the problem. you suggested putting in a new pulley. it went against my better judgement that the pulley was defective. well i put in the new pulley and now the real problem has surfaced. the transmission is not working. now i want to order a new tranny and low and behold it is no longer available. well why did you sell me a $99 pulley when that was not the next part to change after the belts were replaced. now i have a new pulley on a washer that is going to the recycle center as metal trash. well on my part i will reward maytag by buying a ge washer now. plus i will not count on using you as my parts supplier.

unplug machine ,shut off water supply,Removed 2 lower front panel screws ,raise panel upward "hinge type motion"and removed , Remove 2 self tapping screws from under front corners, removed liquid bleach tube from upper connector ,raise top toward back of machine , place prop "piece of wood" to hold top up,removed 1 screw attaching injector ,now replaced injector assy and install with new hoses and clamps. then assemble in reverse order

Remove the power cord and water hoses. Lay the machine on the floor. Remove two belts (washing and pumping). Unlock the screw of pulley using a hex key. Remove the broken pulley from the motor. Place in the new pulley. Lock the screw of the pulley. Install two belts. Turn the machine vertically. Plug in water hoses and power cord. Level the machine.

simply removed old motor and replaced with new

After removing the front cover and tilting up the top of the washer housing, the area of leakage was obvious. I unscrewed the clear plastic injector housing, loosened the clamp, slid the hose off of the clear plastic injector housing, and removed the plastic injector nozzle and the rubber injector valve.

I then order the plastic injector nozzle and the rubber injector valve. After the parts arrived, I simply put things back together, and no more leak!

Note: When putting the plastic injector nozzle into the rubber injector valve, I used a little liquid detergent as a lube.

Replaced both the drive belt and pump belt in less than 10 minutes. Maytag has the easiest machines to work on.