A17CT Maytag Washer - Instructions

Partselect.com gave me a very helpful list of parts per symptom. Said that there is an 88% chance that belts were my problem. Since the machine is 200 miles away I ordered two other parts as well. Belts fixed it! Took front cover off (not totally necessary). When the machine is tilted back belts are exposed underneath. Two belts later I was up and running. This site is really great.

Could not repair. The gearbox on the agitator was broken and that kept the agitator from working. Do not assume it is a belt problem on a washer built in 1987.

I followed the instructions on this website to a T. You can take the front cover off and you will notice a small drip from the tub area where the Hub bearings (above the tranny) meets the washing tub. Once you've identified that the leak is indeed coming from that area and not a loose tube. Allow the washer to complete the job and drain the water. Then simply unplug washing machine before starting the process of the repair. It is very important to remember that you must have a spanner wrench before attempting to perform this repair. keywords=spanner+wrench came within two days with Prime Shipping. Also be sure to order the replacement parts from this site. It takes about 3 days to arrive however so be prepared to be without a washer for a few days. Other than that just follow the instructions provided and there is a very good step-by-step video on this site .

Unscrewed back plate, and replaced bulb

Using a flat-head screw driver, I removed the 1 screw from the small "door" on the back, upper right corner. Once the screw was removed, it allowed the door plate to "pop" open; exposing the old bulb. I removed the old bulb; replaced it with the new one. DONE!

There are two screws that hold the switch in place. And two wires connected to the switch. The most difficult part of replacement is to place the new switch and hold it in place to reinstall the mounting screws. The space to work in is limited unless you remove the front panel from the dryer, which I opted not to do.

The repair itself is fairly simple. However, being 65 years old getting the new valve back into the back opening of the washer and screwed in was a challenge. The clamp on the water connector hose broke and I had to drive to the store to replace it. You may want to consider giving a heads-ups option of ordering hose clamps to DIYers, when you go to order. Also, the instructions that came with the part was not totally accurate. I had to rotate the cylinders outward to connect to the electrical points. But, my machine is pretty old and that may be why. Otherwise, I am very pleased with how quick I received the part and it was exactly what I ordered. My washing machine is back in business. Thank you

Removed the old hoses and screwed on the new hoses.

well i first put on 2 new belts because they were worn and smoking. the new belts did not fix the problem. you suggested putting in a new pulley. it went against my better judgement that the pulley was defective. well i put in the new pulley and now the real problem has surfaced. the transmission is not working. now i want to order a new tranny and low and behold it is no longer available. well why did you sell me a $99 pulley when that was not the next part to change after the belts were replaced. now i have a new pulley on a washer that is going to the recycle center as metal trash. well on my part i will reward maytag by buying a ge washer now. plus i will not count on using you as my parts supplier.

After figuring out how to open the washer I could not find where the leaking water had come from. I ran the washer without the front cover (cold water) and it didn't leak. When I finally accidentally blocked the intake on the tub did it squirt out inside the washer. It turned out that it would only leak with both hot and cold water combined was the pressure big enough to leak. The place it leaked was about halfway between the intake valve and where it entered the tub in what looked like a small plastic housing with slots. The functionality of this thing is still in question. I call it the Kazoo because it makes noise so you can tell the water is going in. I can see that it also holds back pressure so the washer does not fill too fast if the incoming pressure is too high, but I have my doubts about this. It turns out the intake hose is interrupted with by a jet inside a 3 inch black rubber tube (valve) that extends into the second hose. The water pressure expands the rubber (valve)and makes noise. The way I see it old rubber had maybe shrunk and lost its ability to resist pressure so it overflowed because too much water was coming through. The new piece I ordered was 3/8 inch longer then the one that came out. Maybe a planned obsolence part. (My wife wanted to buy a new washer and dryer at the first sign of trouble.) Anyway the repair was pretty simple. No clamps needed the old one is easy to undo and you just replace the kazoo. By the way while I was waiting on the parts to get here I just throttled the water pressure on the wall so it wouldn't leak. On this maytag washer you take off the screws on the front towards the bottom to start. I did not notice them untill I had damn destroyed the lid. After you remove the front cover there are 2 screws in the top front corners to remove and the the top pops off. They repair is easy understanding it took some thinking. Good luck.

Removed tubs per prescribed videos. Removed transmission per video. Disassembled transmission per video. Used heat and penetrating oil to free top shaft. Lubricated top shaft and bushings with grease and reinstalled. Reassembled washer with replacement parts from partselect. Problem solved. My wife loves this washer. It lasted 30 years before I had issues, many of the internals looked brand new. They dont make' m like this anymore. With the self- help videos, and OEM parts from partselect, I'll get another 30, Thank you so much.

This job turned out to be alot easier than I thought thanks to the tips I received on the web site. First I removed the agitator with a small nut drive I believe it was 1/4". Than I removed the two screws holding on the lid and lofted it out of the way. This is where the Hammer drill comes in. I had read someone else had used WD40 to help break free the threads and get the retaining ring off the tub it self. I worked on this for about 20 minutes with lube and trying to tap it off with the hammer and tap method. Finally I looked over and sitting there on the self next to the washer was my hammer drill. It can't be any worse than banging on the thing with the hammer. (They proably don't reccomend) but with a straight tip and a couple of quick shots the gaint nut came right off. I will say that my washer being older I could barely even tell where the threads were so I figured why not. It worked great. I then took the tub ring(plastic) at the top off and removed tub. Again a couple of quick shots with the hammer drill and the ring came right off. I did spend a little time making sure everything was clean and then reassembled machine with no more leaks. It may sound strange but it worked great with no fighting the space constraints, the calcium buildup and no damage to machine. If it doesn't work get a bigger hammer. Good luck

To troubleshoot the problem I removed a panel/blank from the back of the machine. I then started to fill the tub while watching the pump. It immediately leaked from the shaft seal. I ordered the part early the next morning. It arrived late the next day. I was able to remove the front panel of the machine by removing a screw at each front corner of the bottom of the machine. The pump was attached with three screws which were simple to remove. The pump was an exact replacement and fit identically to the original. I tensioned the belt, and tested the machine. Before reinstalling the front cover, I cleaned the interior of the machine a bit and replaced a couple of hose clamps whose steel screws had started to corrode. All in all a simple repair.

Once the front and top of the machine were opened,
I loosened the clamps on each end of the injector. I removed the rubber injector valve and the plastic injector nozzle was inside. I placed the new nozzle inside the rubber valve making sure the lip of the nozzle was locked in the rubber valve as on the one I had removed. I used a little detergent to lubricate the wider end of the rubber valve(as suggested by someone else in their description). I placed the valve into the washer in the same way the old one came out. I tightened the clamps and started the machine. No leak. I put the top and front on and have been happily washing since. This machine was given to us used by my mother-in-law. It is at least 25 years old.
I assumed we would have to replace the machine, but we repaired it for less than $20., including shipping. Thanks.

The replacement of the Water Inlet Valve supplied by PartSelect (model PS60378) was too easy.
The key issue was to remove previously the whole upper cover of the washer machine, including the Control Panel, and disconnect all the cables from the electronic Control Board, in order to work easy and freely to remove the inner water hose that is connected to the water inlet valve, working from inside and not from outside of the machine.
Care must be taken writing a notepad of the position of every cable, for not making mistakes when reconnecting them to the Control Panel.