959072 (ABWEEUS) LG Dryer - Instructions

Despite the young age of this dryer, and failure of all the other trials to fix the problem, I figured maybe the igniter is the problem. Ordered one. Followed a U tube video to take the unit apart. Noticed immediately that there was lots of lint pretty much everywhere inside the cabinet. Come to find that the blower and the vent had never been connected, with about two inches gap. So, some of the exhaust was going out the vent hose, but lots was not. In fact, lint had coated the propane jet and the air mixer assembly. Replacing the igniter was not particularly difficult, once the dryer was in lots of pieces. I did not test the igniter before replacing it. I did connect the vent outlet to the blower and secured it. End result was a perfectly functioning unit and a happy wife. I don't recall reading about this as a possible cause of propane odor and failure of the unit to heat up.

Removed the two screws holding the dryer door strike/locker assembly in place, removed the old and put the new in its place and replaced the screws.

I did as I was told (by my wife). Bought the machine from Home Depot - no side vent kit - had them complete the installation today when the kit came.

I'm a technician Mechanic using my skills for fix that's

I took the top off, I disattached the front and took the front top of dryer off, taking the front of dryer off, detached the belt and took the drum out, found the wheels took the plastic triangle off and took the wheels off and replaced wheels, then did everything in reverse and no more thumping. just remember to unplug unit before working on it. And also Part Select is a very good site and place to get parts, very fair priced and very professional.

I had ask how to get the top off., it was simple ,take 3 screws off the bottom angle bracket .and slide top back about 2" then lift.then remove the front panels. '

R&R new lint filter.Old filter appears to have been made improperly and the out frame was warped raising the cormer that kept catching the clothes.

Really easy to do! Unscrewed 4 screws, pulled flap on bottom of inside guide out. Then gently shake assembly to loosen from dryer and pull up and out! Then based on the assembly can replace front or back or both. They snap together! Put assembly replacement back in and close flap and secure in place with the four screws.

This was a repair from a repair. It started as a conversion to LPG, in the process the igniter broke. The parts arrived quickly and we were able to get it back together and the wife is happy. Thanks.

Seemed to be shutting off on the safety thermostat so I replaced them all. Works.

with expert precision

Pull out dryer and unplug 220v. With phillips screwdriver, remove 3 screws from back of top and slide top panel back approx 2 inches and remove. Unplug 4 wire sets from rear of control panel. Remove 2 screws from back of control panel, carefully pull top edge and remove control panel. Remove 4 screws from top of front panel, as well as bottom 2 screws from inside dryer door. Disconnect door light wire near 10 o'clock. Pull top of front panel forward and lift off of tabs. Disconnect filter sensor wire under panel on the right. Remove 2 screws from each side of inner front panel and lift until tabs disengaged from side panels. Pull out bottom edge, carefully disengage inner front panel from drum and remove it. Try to turn roller wheels that are on the rear of the inner front panel. The wheel can get lint inside the wheel/axle and freeze. If one or both is stuck and won't turn easily, use a couple small flathead screwdrivers to carefully remove the plastic triangle retainer off of the roller assembly of the wheel that is stuck. You do not need to unbolt the axle from the panel. Wipe off the axle and inside of wheel with a clean, soft, lint-free cloth. If the wheel has a flat spot from being rubbed by the drum, you will need to replace it as I did or it will make a thumping sound after cleaned and put back together. Do NOT grease or oil the wheel/axle. This will lead to more lint collection and clogging/freezing. Reverse to put back together.

Unplugged dryer. Removed front panel. removed nut holding old igniter. Unplugged old igniter, plugged in new igniter, and mounted new igniter with screw using nut driver.

Not knowing whether it was the pulley, tensioner, or drum roller I had previously pulled the dryer apart and noticed one roller shaft was rusty for some reason. When the part came in (which was quite fast)I disassembled the dryer to the point that I could remove the left rear drum roller. Replaced the roller and reassembled the dryer (to my surprise without any extra screws or parts left). Fairly easy job, just time consuming.

removed the top of the dryer first by removing screws in the back and pulling the top back and up. Removed the control panel, followed by the door. The front panel and top brace were then removed. The belt was disengaged by pulling the tensioner idler and working the belt off the motor pulley. The drum was lifted out and set aside with the other parts. Holding the motor shaft with vice-grip pliers, and turning the nut on the blower wheel (left-hand thread!)removed the blower wheel. The motor is held by snap-on retainers and easily removed and swapped. Installation is reverse of disassembly. While in there, cleaned out the lint gathered everywhere. Also constructed a heat shield out of aluminum flashing and foil tape to cover the foil and foam tape between the burner assembly and sheet metal side. The foam had actually burned at some point in the past and the flashing should act as a better heat shield. A relatively easy repair, but should not have been necessary in a 7 year old dryer.