91192812301 Kenmore Range - Instructions

I picked the least expensive and most likely issue with our oven that was not indicating a correct oven temperature. I am sure with a 15+ year appliance that the circuitry is on its way out but wanted to give this a try to avoid a new appliance purchase. Oven pre-heat setting takes much longer to finish with the age of the oven. However, after the new sensor the oven will maintain a more even temperature for the cycle.

Removal of the sensor from the inside of the oven is a bit awkward since it is located between the broiler elements at the back but a nut driver was the correct tool and worked fine. A bit stuck with the heating of the connection but pretty simple to replace. Must remove the back first to uncouple the connector. Simplest part of the repair.

At best a temporary fix for a an appliance this old.

Read the instructions on how to remove the door, found in the owners manual. Once you release the hinge lock latches, the door can be lifted off of the hinge arms.

It is fairly heavy and bulky. I spread a large towel on the kitchen table and placed the door, front side down on the towel.

Remove the 3 nut screws at the bottom of the door and then lift the inner door assembly up about 3" and hold it up temporarily with a medium sized plastic food storage container. This will allow room to access the 4 nut screws (2 on each side) that secure the trim to the door.

The old trim was somewhat difficult to remove because of years of rust and other build up where the front door glass goes behind the trim. Be careful not to damage the glass. I used a putty knife.

The edge of the glass will be soiled so I used a mild abrasive cleaner to remove the rust and grime, and then used a window cleaning spray to clean the glass.

The new piece had to be "fitted" slightly to match the existing screw nut holes but it goes together quickly.

Replaced

First we confirmed that the part delivered was the correct piece needed. We unscrewed the interior panel of the door and separated the insulation from the two pieces so the old glass frame could be removed. The rope type gasket gave us some trouble as it was difficult to stage the insulation, glass frame and rope at one time. Once we got the pieces in place it was a breeze to screw the panel back in just in time to make pies for our Thanksgiving dinner.

I removed the new control panel from its packaging and noticed that the button overlay was not included. I grabbed a putty knife and carefully loosened the adhesive on the old panel and was able to apply it to the new control panel. After installing it I looked up the number of my old panel on the included paperwork and simply entered the “profile” number after powering up the new one and It worked perfectly. I was very relieved to not have to buy a new range!

The repair was very easy to do. Our oven was showing the F2 error code, which is associated with an over-temperature fault. Upon inspection, the oven was warm, but definitely not beyond the temperature threshold. I researched the issue and found this temperature sensor.
Swapping the sensor was extremely easy. You take off the back panel of the oven, unhook a single wiring harness, and undo some bolts inside the oven, which allows you to pull off the old sensor. Simply hook up the new sensor to the harness, pull everything back through, replace the fasteners, and you're good to go.

I removed the 4 hex head screws holding the control panel , then the other 4 slotted screws. Disconnected all wires being careful to keep track of the color coding. Had a little trouble with the adhesive holding the face plate( I don't know why they even used it). Put the new panel in and reconnected it. Re set circuit breaker and tried the oven. It still wouldn't heat. it wasn't the control panel, but a burned out wire connecting the element in the back of the oven. Well, anyway I learned how to do the job and the the new panel activates better, so all was not lost.

I first turned off power, then I removed the old top oven heating element, I connected the new element to power supply then placed the element back into holders.

unscrew the terminal block,pulled the old wires out,installed the new wires installed the new block

Removed old racks and replaced with new racks.

Simply pulled old gasket from door and pushed new gasket clips into existing holes and tucked in ends at bottom of door.

My stove would not heat. I could see that the bake element had a hole burned through it. Found this website. I was confused about what part I needed so I called the phone number and the girl was very good at locating exactly which element my stove needed after I gave her the stove make and model #. I ordered the part on Thursday afternoon. The part arrived on Saturday afternoon.

The hardest part of fixing it was finding the correct screw driver socket thingy (I'm not a technical person) to get the screws off with. Thankfully my neighbor had what I needed. I pulled my stove out from the wall (primarily because I needed to clean under there) and unplugged it. Unscrewed the screws, pulled the old element out until I could see the wire connections. I used clothes pins to hold the wires from going back into the stove once I unhooked them from the element (another tip I learned on this website) and simple slipped the wire connectors onto the new element, pushed it back into place, put the screws back on, plugged it in and TA DA... was baking a pizza in no time.

Very very VERY easy repair!!!

Pulled the range out and unplugged it. Removed the back panel. Removed one wire at a time and plugging it in on the new switch. unscrewed the existing switch from the front panel (Two screws). Screwed the new one in, replaced the panel, plugged in the range and tested it. The new switch was a perfect OEM replacement and worked perfectly.

First turn off the breaker, and test with my milti meter. Raise the top panel where the coils are and prop it open high enough to use a screwdriver to open the front panel.
Then unscrew the three screws on the inside of the top panel, then open the oven door and you will see 4 screws across the bottom of thefront control board panel and two more on each side of the sides of the panel facing straight up. Unscrew those 6 screws and then pull the front control panel forward and out. You might need something or someone to hold the panel, I just let the wires hold the weight, but not highly recommend. Then pull the switch knob off and behind it there are two little bitty screws that hold the switch in place. Unscrew them and pull the switch out of its place. I put the new switch close to the old one and just used the needle nose pliers to unplug one wire at a time and plug it in on the same place as the old one.
Then screw the itty bitty screws in the front that hold the switch in place and put tbe knob back on. Reposition the front panel back into place abs screw in the 9 screws removed for disassembly. Now would be a good time to clean under the burner panel if you haven’t done so yet ( it gets pretty nasty under there). Then put your burner top back down into place and turn your breaker back on. You can either test with your multi meter or like I did, just put the burner on high and watct the coils glow. Such a beautiful sight. Easy fix.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then went to pull the element out and one of the wires touched the side of the access hole. There was a spark and the electrical breaker tripped. (Remember to always shut the electricity off first). Before I put the new element in I took off the access panel on the back of the range, slid in the new element, attached the two screwd that hold the element in place. Then I went around to the back of the range and re-connected the wires from that location to make sure there was nothing around the wires that would spark. Put the access plate back on and I was done.