9117358710 Kenmore Range - Instructions

They turned out to be 1/4 inch hex head screws. Only after soaking with penetrating oil could we budge them. There must be a special tool to loosen them on the back side where there is no room to get a socket on them and since they are in the heated part of the oven they are almost welded in. We were successful, but could only get one screw back in. So never use your oven with the door left open as I did if you do not want to repeat what happened to me.

Most trouble I had was removing the screws that were located under the bracket. I had to slip the oven door off first to give me more room. Very hard to get to these screws because of where they were located under the bracket. I had to twist and turn the old igniter to get to it. When finally removed, I replaced the old igniter with the new one using my own screws. I twisted the wires together, and replaced the baffles, the oven floor, and then the door. The oven fired up wonderfully! Thank you for your prompt service for getting me the part quickly and correctly.

Removed the two screws that hold the oven bottom to expose the glow element. Also removed the lower draw to get to the connections. The job was only complicated by getting to the two bolts holding the glow plug to the oven frame. Getting them off and getting the new plug on was not easy with standard tools. There was not a lot of room to work the hex bolts and i wound up cutting the old unit out and attaching the bolts to the frame and cutting slots in the new unit so I could slot it in. That worked. The glow plug was the problem and the oven came right on.

First I took out the old Igniter and discovered the part I ordered did not come with any connectors, just bare wires. This is ok but I found myself searching the stores for the correct attatchments. It would be great if your web site gave the options to order these at the same time. This was my first repair of this kind so I had no idea what I was doing. I thought the part would arrive with what I needed to install it. The hardest part was getting the bolts off the under side of the Igniter. The space if very tight and at an angle that a regular took doesn't really fit. What took so long was taking the bolts off by hand. Im a single woman who likes to try to fix things first on my own. My 18 yr. old daughter was in there with me the whole time learning and finally it was her smaller fingers that were able to get the bolts into the new part. We only finger tightened the part because no tools would fit at the curved angle. I love your web site and the ease of finding the part I needed. Its the stove manufacture who made this project difficult by how they place the screws. I will use them for all my part needs in the future.

Straight forward as per instructions. Removed old igniter, replaced and tested new one and it worked. However, the gas oven would not turn of. Valve may be defective. Knob control is not stripped and turned to full stop. Troubleshooting continues. Part(s) and instructions worked perfectly.

Checked on this website for ideas. A 20+ year repairman posted that the problem is the control valve and I should replace the igniter while I'm there. The valve was priced at $189 and the igniter $60. I decided to try the igniter first and all is well. Valve not needed.
Steps; remove; door, lower tray, and oven floor pan. Disconnect two igniter wires. Use 6mm sock to loosen gas feed tube, then lift tube up a couple of inches to access igniter screws. Remove them, and reverse process with new part. I tried to R&R the igniter without loosening the gas feed tube but it's a real PITA. Good luck, easy fix.

Go to utube videos for this are there

- removed the oven unit from the wall
- removed the aluminum backplate to expose the wiring
- Removed both glass wire nuts and disconnected the heating element\
- From the front, I removed both retainer screws and pulled the element wires through.
- In reverse order I reinsalled the new wires and screwed on the heating element.
-I reattached the electrical wiring and rear pane.
- I re-installed the unit into the wall.

I rempved the top and bottom doors, than the wire rackes followed by the bottom base of the oven. Then I removed the burner cover plate so I could get to the igniter.. I removed the cover plate for the wiring (2 wires), unpluged them, removed the igniter (2 screws). I had to cut the wires on the old igniter and couple the ends to the new igniter and then replaced everything by just reversing all that I did. Simple! Easy!

Unplugged the oven. First i removed the 2 screws from the pan at the bottom of the oven and took the pan out. Next i took out the drawer underneath and took the screws out of the pans below to get to the ignitor. Unscrewed the ignitor and cut the wires below it to splice the new ignitor on. Spliced the two sets of wires and put the ceramic wire nuts on. Replaced the top and bottom pans and put the drawer back. plugged the oven back in and started the oven right up. Pretty easy.

i went for 3 months waiting on the electrician who never came then asked the plumber who else could fix it and he said my husband could it only needed to unscrew 4 tiny screws and unplug and cut and twist wires back the hardest part was reaching the bolts hooked to the ignighter the burner was in the way and is not as easy to remove as someone has said all in all it saved us 100 dollars and could have saved us months of burning food trying to cook on broil if i had only called the plumber first.ha ha

Followed the excellent removal and installation video by PartSelect. Also the diagram was excellent allowing me to purchase the correct hinge the first time. Fast shipping.

Diagnosed the problem as igniter failure and called local parts outlet. They gave me the part number, but said they were out and directed me to another vendor. When the part came, it was the wrong shape but I tried it anyway. Result - the igniter glowed which allowed the gas to flow, but igniter, being the WRONG PART, didn't ignite the gas, allowing a dangerous build-up of gas.

I then went to PartSelect, looked up the part, saw it was the correct one, ordered it (arrived within 3 days) and, because I already had the pans and covers off the oven, it was a matter of minutes to install. Works like a charm and, though I usually like to buy locally, I'll check out PartSelect first next time!

I removed the 2 screws that held the bottom oven plate in place. Then I removed the one screw holding the bottom burner in place in the front. I then reached into the rear area and unscrewed the last 2 screws securing the burner. I disconnected the igniter wires at their push-on connections and lifted the whole burner/igniter unit out. I relaced the igniter using the 2 attachment screws, and I cut the old igniter's wires with connectors and spliced them into the new igniter's wires, using the ceramic wire nuts that came with the new igniter. I reassembled the unit and it worked first time.

First i removed the inside bottom of the oven where i could get to the actual glow plug igniter and removed the two screw that held the igniter in place. I than pulled the entire oven out allowing me to access the two wires connecting the igniter to the stove. I disconnected the wires and had to splice the wires as to be able to reach the appropriate connections. I reinstalled the igniter and upon testing the igniter worked properly. The entire process took me one hour.