9117358610 Kenmore Range - Instructions

Troubleshooted ALL possible causes and after perusing the owners manual and PartSelect blogs. Can't say it enough, people!! Do your homework- there are 3 possible parts that can cause the oven not to light; Igniter, gas safety valve, or thermostat / power switch assy (oven control knob).
SAFETY FIRST...UNPLUG the stove before performing any of the following electrical circuit checks (besides voltage check, which is ONLY for those qualified for electrical circuit maintenance)

Remove oven door by opening slightly and pulling straight up- it will slide right off the hinges.
Remove the 2 thumb screws holding the lower oven plate and slide it toward the back while lifting up on rear of plate to clear the front flange and then remove the plate.
The burner tube baffle plate will come right off after removing the one retainer screw (1/4" nut driver).
(Optional)Remove the whole broiler drawer by sliding it fully open and lifting it up by the front end.
Now you'll have clear access to the igniter, which is mounted on the rearward end of the burner tube with two 1/4" machine screws. Disconnect the igniter wire connectors at the gas safety valve and wire harness. Remove it and SAVE the screws for mounting the new igniter!! NOTE: .
Handle the new igniter CAREFULLY!! (don't drop it or bang it against anything solid or the heating element will break).

1) Checked t-stat switch on oven knob - good (closed or 0 ohms when turned on). This verifies you are getting supply voltage to the igniter circuit. Lift the oven top by the front corners until the supports lock into place. Locate and disconnect wires on back of switch and measure ohms across switch terminals.
2) Checked voltage at igniter wire terminals with oven knob turned on (this step ONLY for those familiar with proper use of multimeter and training for electrical circuit maintenance). This verifies the gas safety valve switch is closed and correct voltage is available to power the igniter (120V).
3) Since I had proper power to the igniter wire terminals with the oven knob turned on past 200 deg., that verified a malfunctioning igniter.
4) I chose to solder and heat shrink the wire connectors to the new igniter but you can use the supplied ceramic wire nuts. Be sure to leave enough wire length when you cut the wires off the old igniter. Mount the new igniter to the bracket with the screws you saved and be sure to snug them good but DON'T overtighten and strip the threads!! Connect the two igniter wires to the gas safety valve terminal and the harness connector. Make sure the connections are snug!!
5) Reinstall the burner baffle plate and lower oven plate.
6) Remount oven door and turn on oven past 200 deg. The igniter element should glow bright red after a few seconds. Gas valve should open and burner will light a few seconds later.
NOTE: Make sure the gas cock for the oven (on the side of the main gas regulator valve) is flipped to the open position or gas will not flow to the oven burner. The main gas regulator valve is located under the range top toward the rear (trace the gas lines if you can't locate it readily)

First had to disconnect the old igniter by removing screw with a small wratchet wrench. Then pull out approximately 3" of wire from the old igniter, cut off old igniter, attache replacement igniter with supplied wire nuts, shove excess wire back into wiring compartment and then attach the new igniter.

I removed lower drawer, removed oven door,
took out rear screws to oven pan,removed screws that attatch ignighter to oven wall,disconnected wiring and removed old ignighter. reversed process to install new part. total repair time was about 20 minutes. Also take into consideration that i am a building contractor familiar to appliance repair etc.

The repair was easy and not very time consuming. It didn't take very long to fix the problem and thanks to this site, I was able to save the money I would have spent if a repair technician came out to do the same work. Now I can afford Christmas and cook too!

I removed the igniter by first removing the oven racks then the oven pan and oven catch pans. I open the lower draw to the oven and removed the drawer. I reached back under the oven and clipped the wires that run to the igniter and striped a half inch of plastic to expose the wire. I removed the igniter from the burner and replaced with new igniter. I then fed the wires back through the hole the cut wires came out of and used the wire nuts supplied to connect. Replaced other parts in reverse order and tested. Works great.

frist tested ignitor with meter removed ignitor order
part , I recieved to my surprise next day I'm a very happy person

The biggest problem is to get down low enough and far enough back to be able to reach the igniter. Other tan that , it was a simple affair.Unscrew the old one and detach the wire nuts and reverse the procedure for the installation and hope the gas valve has'nt been affected

1/4 inch nut driver & 9/16 open end to take the igniter off and pull the wires out of the back of the oven. Then take the wire nuts off and install the new igniter . Shove the wire nuts back in the hole. Reinstall the burner and covers. Total time is about a half hour no special skills needed. easy

took the bottom plates off with philips screwdriver.(note) there are two plates..outter and inner..to get to the two screws on the igniter.Remove igniter(two nuts). Install new. Cut the wires from old(lower part of oven and rewire with porclain wire nuts.Very simple...Partselect was great too..very fast shipping. Will do buisness again.

Removed old igniter coil by removing 2 small hex head bolts and pulling the two wire plug connectors (be sure to unplug the range). Installed new coil and connected the wires with the ceramic wire nuts supplied with the new part.

This site provides excellent instructions and saved a lot of time and effort.

Replacing the part only requires basic skills and attention to detail. The kit I received included ceramic wire nuts to splice the new igniter to the old connections. Be sure to leave enough wire to mke the connections properly.

I first read and printed out several postings on how others did the job. I read and re-read them and then I started. I cut power to stove and left gas on. I removed door, pushed back and removed bottom burner cover. I exposed the igniter which I deduced was the problem. I removed the front burner screw and the rear screws (2) and the burner came out very easy. I removed the igniter from the burner, made sure which wire went where (I marked them)an snipped them. I used the ceramic caps and spliced the wires. I replaced the burner and turned on the power. I turned the oven knob on and "Viola", the igniter came on and burner came to life. I replaced every thing in reverse order and called it "done". It was so easy with the postings on this subject.

Moved stove out from wall and unplugged 110 cord. Removed broken igniter from broiler with nut driver. Removed protective cover from back of stove. Cut off plug from existing igniter wires on the back of the stove. Installed new igniter and fed wires trough to the back of stove and connected the wires with the supplied wire nuts. Reinstalled protective cover on the back of the stove. Plugged the 110 cord back in and returned stove back to the original location.

I removed the oven door, racks, and oven floor. That was easy, the floor had two thumb screws and one phillips/hex screw. I removed the lower drawer and the 2 covers above the drawer. The igniter was held in place by two phillips/hex screws. Had to manuver a bit to get the right angle to remove the screws. THE MOST IMPORTANT PART OF THE REPAIR, when you cut the two wires to remove the old igniter, cut them off as close to the old igniter module as possible. On my stove one of the wires on the new igniter was about an inch too short and I had to add a section of wire. Overall the whole job was easy. Keep track of screws as you remove them.

followed peoples advices and all went very smooth. make sure to undo bracket from behind bottom drawer as it will make your life much easier.