9113548813 Kenmore Range - Instructions

They turned out to be 1/4 inch hex head screws. Only after soaking with penetrating oil could we budge them. There must be a special tool to loosen them on the back side where there is no room to get a socket on them and since they are in the heated part of the oven they are almost welded in. We were successful, but could only get one screw back in. So never use your oven with the door left open as I did if you do not want to repeat what happened to me.

Removed the two screws that hold the oven bottom to expose the glow element. Also removed the lower draw to get to the connections. The job was only complicated by getting to the two bolts holding the glow plug to the oven frame. Getting them off and getting the new plug on was not easy with standard tools. There was not a lot of room to work the hex bolts and i wound up cutting the old unit out and attaching the bolts to the frame and cutting slots in the new unit so I could slot it in. That worked. The glow plug was the problem and the oven came right on.

removed bottom of oven.removed heat shield.i
then unscrewed the wire nuts to the igniter.i
then tookout the burnner with the igniter attached.
i unscrewed the two screws holding the igniter
in place,and put the new one on.i then screwed
the wire nuts back on,and put it back togather.
it works great,thanks for the help.it saved me alot
of money.

Straight forward as per instructions. Removed old igniter, replaced and tested new one and it worked. However, the gas oven would not turn of. Valve may be defective. Knob control is not stripped and turned to full stop. Troubleshooting continues. Part(s) and instructions worked perfectly.

It was easy. I removed the guts. Removed the heat deflector (one nut). Then removed the igniter and the cover over the wires in order to unplug the wires so I could work with attaching the new part on top of the counter. Replaced everything and it worked great. When the old igniter did not work, the gas valve would not let the gas into the oven, Once replaced, you can here the gas flow in and ignite. Repair man wanted $65 to show up and $175 for part and labor. I paid $77 for the part and did it myself. I do not consider myself handy.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires...

I really do not have the time to do this right now, however, I feel that it is important to tell everyone that dealing with PartSelect allowed me to repair the stove and please my wife in the easiest way possible. I will use PartSelect forever....

After removing two layers of the oven floor I could not get at the igniter's wire connections. I found out that the new igniter was shipped with two wire nuts made of porcelain instead of plastic, so they were heat tolerant. Because of this, I was able to unscrew the original part and just cut the wires. I then installed the new igniter and spliced the wires of the new part to the cut wires that lead to the old part using the porcelain wire nuts and tucked the connections out of harms way. It worked fine.

I removed the bottom pan and then removed the flame extender to get access to the igniter. I removed the two screws and cut the wires. I then wired the new igniter and used the ceramic wire nuts that came with the part. After that I installed the igniter. It was very easy to do this repair.

This web site is awesome!!! their forum told me what part i needed, and they shipped it out, super fast, i couldn't hardly believe it! I tried using the Sears Parts web site for my "kenmore" oven and that was a joke, seriously! no more kenmore for me, thanks. It took this site to figure out that i really had a G.E. with a kenmore name on it.
I found out that even though the old ignitor glows well, it may not pull enough amps to open the gas valve.
First i disconnected the two wires on the gas safety valve that lead to the ignitor. These are accessed after taking the bottom drawer out. Then using a nut driver, i took out the two screws holding the bottom of the burner tube. Then inside the oven, i took out the racks and then the two screws in the back on the bottom. Then took out the bottom plate. I removed the one screw on the front of the burner tube, and removed the burner tube with the ignitor attached. I cut the wires off the old ignitor and attached them to the new ignitor with the supplied ceramic wire nuts. I attached the new ignitor to the burner tube and put everything back together. The bottom screws on the burner tube were very difficult for me to reach. Almost impossible to get both hands there to do the job.

Go to utube videos for this are there

First shut down electric power to oven. remove
oven racks and botton tray. Removed boiler rack and door. Next unscrew 2 bolts holding igniter. remove nuts or cap for two white electric wires.
installed new igniter, hooked backup wires. replaces racks and tray and that was it, job done.

I rempved the top and bottom doors, than the wire rackes followed by the bottom base of the oven. Then I removed the burner cover plate so I could get to the igniter.. I removed the cover plate for the wiring (2 wires), unpluged them, removed the igniter (2 screws). I had to cut the wires on the old igniter and couple the ends to the new igniter and then replaced everything by just reversing all that I did. Simple! Easy!

Unplugged the oven. First i removed the 2 screws from the pan at the bottom of the oven and took the pan out. Next i took out the drawer underneath and took the screws out of the pans below to get to the ignitor. Unscrewed the ignitor and cut the wires below it to splice the new ignitor on. Spliced the two sets of wires and put the ceramic wire nuts on. Replaced the top and bottom pans and put the drawer back. plugged the oven back in and started the oven right up. Pretty easy.

1. I have searched info on the internet and found that site.
2. Initially I could not figure out how to unscrew ingniter. After reading more post I have found out how to access nuts underneath.
3. After I have removed lower drawer and unscrewed metal cover and then inginter nuts.
4. I have got a part with two wires attached to the igniter and two porcelan insulator, so it was very easy to cut old wires and connect with an igniter wires in parallel

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Following the recommendations of others I decided to attempt repairing the oven by myself. I unplugged the stove. I removed the oven door, the drawer, the drip pan from below the oven unit and the oven pan to access the igniter bracket. All screws were 1/4" hex head except the oven pan which were slotted. I disconnected the 2 wires. I removed the old igniter and cut the 2 wires close to the old igniter to allow extra length to splice to the new igniter. The new unit included 2 wire-nuts. It was simple to wire-nut the new wires to the old ones and install the new igniter. I reassembled the pans I had removed and the door. I plugged the stove back into the wall. The new igniter worked perfectly. My wife continues to tell me how great it is to have a working oven again and how much faster it seems to heat. I am thankful the oven didn't fail while we were cooking the Thanksgiving turkey the week before. I debated calling a repair technician or shopping for a new stove. The price of the new igniter and the description of the procedure convinced me to attempt a repair. I am very pleased with the results.