91133385100 Kenmore Cooktop - Instructions

Disconnect cooktop power by unplugging from outlet or turning off circuit breaker. Turn off gas to cooktop. Remove burner top ends and knobs by lifting off, keeping track of which parts go to which burner. I like to take pictures with my phone as I go in case I have questions when reassembling. Use a crosshead screwdriver to remove two screws on each burner pan and remove pans, gently pulling off the ignition wire from the sparker. Keep track of which pans go to which burner. I used a plastic pry tool for auto trim removal, to lift each pan since they were all somewhat stuck and i didn't want to scratch the cooktop. Remove glass top by gently lifting and set aside. Lift off each igniter switch but do not disconnect wires yet. Set them aside. The link below gives instruction for installing the ignition switches over the valves. The switches go on as depicted in the "Switch 22 Degrees" diagram. The tabs on the bottom of the switch will fit over the valve screws, and the gap in the switch housing will expose the simmer adjust screw. Attach the wires by removing the old wires one-by-one and replacing with the new wires. Reassembly is in reverse order.

https://855723777883-us-east-1-parts-service-docs-prod.s3.amazonaws.com/WB00X7149.pdf

Removed several screws and removed element. Replaced same. Total ten minutes.

I received a defective part from PartsSelect.com. After contacting their Customer Service, they promptly replaced the part for no charge at all. I am very, very pleased with PartsSelect.com and recommend them to all "home mechanics".

The bowl was replaced by removing two screws, removing the igniter wire, clip, and igniter. Reverse to re-assemble. I would recommend replacing the gasket at the same time.

Real simple to do. Simply remove the two screws holding the bowl and disconnect the electric wire. Obviously first pull the power cord to prevent being shocked.
Re-attach the power cord and and screw the bowl tight. Plug in the power cord.

It was so easy.I removed the old part with the new with pliers. Voila/// it worked.

Easy, just remove two top screws, unplug the igniter wire and then do it in reverse. Your're done in less than 15min.

There were 3 ? Types of black burner dishes and 3 types of burner caps. The information I collected did not hint about the different sizes. We sent back 2 caps for the proper ones. Meantime 3 of the dishes were on backorder. I installed the one dish I had. Later the 3 backorder dishes arrived. I began to install them when I discovered I needeed more than one size. I am a retired aerospace engineer. I had to use my file and hammer to fit experiences to make up for my parts ordering deficiency. The new dishes, mounting holes, were different than the one I had previously installed . So in order not to return them and wait an additional few weeks , I filed the mounting holes sufficient to be able to mount them. Then I put the next part on and discovered that it did not fit the new location of the igniter . I filed the approx 1/2" dia hole from round to a "d"configuration on 3 parts , that allowed the igniter to function in two of the new locations . The fourth and smallest burner required an additional 1/4" spacer to move the gas supply riser closer tothe igniter. The burners are all working as new. No fire hazards. My wife does not know the goofs I made. I had to use some inventive methods and I'm still her hero. I would caution all di it yourself people to become very familiar with the parts they need. They may all look the same to the novice but there are slight differences that should require replacement and could take away your hero status.

Ok - I LOVE THIS COMPANY!! When I read the other blogs I was a little confused. Ok first choosing the right drip pan for my gas stovetop was a little confusing because there was a cheaper one that look just like mine. I didn't have the model number - so I WOULD have guessed on it. Later I took my stovetop apart and found model number. Found that MY model required the more expensive drip pans. I think this will help people.... (1) Both type of drip pans looked just alike, but the space between the ignitor and the flame was different. The closer one wouldn't have worked. (2) They were categorized as small medium and large drip pans. BUT - they all had the same dimension: 9 inches. The difference is made in the flame area. My stove top has one small flame area, one large and two mediums, that's how you determine which size you need. (3) The ignitor, when you take it off - nothing shows whether the little white ignitor breaks apart or not, and HOW you get it out. Once you remove the little wire holding it to the drippan, don't try to pull apart the white ignitor, it doesn't come apart. Mine had rusty residue attaached, making it hard to pull through. But when I removed the crusty stuff the white thing popped through the hole. (I called a REP to see if the white thing tore apart or not and they weren't sure. So maybe this will help some other woman who is wondering.) This was ABSOLUTELY the easiest and most cost effective way to have a nearly BRAND NEW stove top. And I'm pleased with myself that I did it without any help.

Removed two small screws, removed old bowl, placed new bowl, replaced screws.

Removed two screws holding drip bowl in place. Removed spring clip holding igniter to drip bowl and removed igniter. Installed igniter to new drip bowl and installed drip bowl to cook top. Took less than 5 minutes.

Removed the bowel screws, unhooked sparker wire, removed old bowels & replaced with new ones, installed bowel seals and screwed back into place.

On a scale of 1-10 (1 being the lowest level of difficulty), this was clearly a 1. Tools needed are a plillips' head and flat head screwdrivers. First, lift off Burner Cap and Burner Head. Then, raise existing drip bowl (plenty excess wiring), and use flat screwdriver to release retainer clip. Now, disconnect wire attached to spark electrode (igniter) for removal. Unless replacing it, also remove the rubber gasket at base of old drip bowl for reuse (take the opportunity to clean throughly around drip pan base). Reverse procedure, and check igniter. Your job is complete, and you just saved the cost of a service call, and paid less than half the price of retail for genuine replacement parts. As a side note, I received the parts from PartsSelect in less than 24 hours. The customer reviews will also fully reassure you that you are more than capable of making the simple replacement.

Two screws remove the burner bowl. There is an electric push-on connector for the igniter which is easy to pull off. Remove the igniter retaining clip by pushing it off the igniter with a screwdriver or pulling it off with a pliers. Note that I replaced a Large Burner Drip Bowl and a Small Burner Drip Bowl. THEY ARE THE SAME SIZE. The large and small designation refers to the size of the gas diffuser and ceramic cap. The size difference requires that the hole in the bowl for the igniter be in a different place.

Began by removing the front panel where the range handles are located. There were 7 screws located under the panel which required opening of the oven hood. All of this removal was a waste of time, because the range top was on hindges. The only thing holding ithe range top down was the accumulated grease and oil along the edges. I used a screwdriver to sperate the range panel. There were side supports to hold the the top up, like a car hood support. Replacing the electrode was a snap after that. Overall, it took less than 30 mins but it would have taken less than 10 if I hadn't removed the front panel.

replaced drip bowl removed 2 screws, removed wire from igniter. and could have used a new gasket but I used some rope caulking to cushion the pan with the glass top which worked very very well.