8GT2FTKXSS03 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

I first replaced the switch and had no results, I then ordered the Light Socket Kit, and because I had the experience of removing the panel to replace the switch, it took a few minutes to remove the two screws behind the panel, removing the temperature control knobs and then releasing the face plate which is secured by tabs at the bottom. The kit came with extra connectors in case they were needed, but they were not in my case and so I pulled off the wires, pushed the old socket out and the new one in. Attaching the wires to the correct pins, I screwed in the light bulb to be sure that the fix was correct and determining that, I replaced the screws that held the panel in place. Voila, I'm a happy camper who found some outdated jars in the back corners of the newly lighted shelves.

after finding out what could be the problem I order my part which I got around 3 days unboxed it and replaced it in the freezer component which I had already dismantled made note how I took it off and replaced it in the same way took about 25 to 30 minutes quite easy for me was grateful for the solution and proud of myself after replacing it and it began to work now it's freezing and getting cold as it should Thank you my part store

Retainer bar was a little long but husband used a saw to make smaller (the part said it was a similar to my model- Maytag no longer made this made) It was perfect -- ow I have a whole new usable shelf!!

I was prepared for the part not to fit because it's a 23-year-old fridge, but it fit perfectly, no issues whatsoever. I plan to buy a crisper drawer as well. Glad I found this vendor.

Ice maker fit perfectly over 2 top screws. I tightened them and put the one on the bottom. I was done in less than 10minutes. Everything fit perfectly as expected. Couldn't have been eaiser. Parts Select is my go to online store.

Replaced the drawer

I just popped out the old switch with a flat head screwdriver. Removed the connections and then installed new switch by reversing steps. Popped in back in and the light went on.

Swapped out evaporator fan motor, solved the problem!

Installed ice machine components using kit and included instructions. Easy! Ran a copper line from under sink valve to back of refrigerator under the floor. Drilled two holes to run copper line. Plumber turned water off and replaced single valve with a double valve (one line to faucet and the other for the copper line). Installed shut off valve and filter at the other end of copper line. Then stainless hose to refrigerator. Everything went smooth. Double check the factory installed plastic line from the electric valve to the inlet for your freezer. Mine was barely inserted and leaked. I pushed it in all the way and it is fine now... Ice maker works really well! Wish I had done this sooner!

inst said,"50 pct of the time this calls for new capacitor," so we changed the capacitor. Same prob. It also said,"25 pct of the time it's the bi-metal thermostat" So we ordered it. We removed the plastic rear panel from inside the freezer comp. using small nut driver. Here we found much ICE surrounding the defrost unit, three inches thick. We thawed the whole mess. and the freezer has worked fine ever since. I think my habit of getting ice cubes from the inside container rather than from the ice cube dispenser, had kep t the freezer door open too much, interfering with the normal defrost cycle and allowing ice to build up over time so that it finally defeated the system. My new rule, "get ice cubes only from the front."

Pried out old part with screwdriver. Unplugged. When new part came, just plugged it in and pushed the part into place.

I pulled the socket out and unplugged the wires. I replaced the light socket by plugging in the wires and snapping the light socket into place. A very simple fix.

The bar slipped right into a groove on each side and took less than 5 seconds.

Was told capacitor was problem 90% of the time.Capacior was not the problem.Bad start relay.

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