7MWGD87HEDC1 Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

Took the dryer apart and replaced the idler pulley with bracket and the drive belt

Before anything unplug the dryer
1) Remove the back panel to include electric cable. 2) Remove the lower front panel. 3) Remove top panel. 4) Remove control panel 5) remove door assembly to include metal frame and front panel of the blower housing. (much easier than trying to do this separately. 6) Remove drum belt by pulling back on the idler pulley (spring). 7) Remove drum. 8) Remove idler pulley retaining ring and pulley. 9) remove old seal on blower housing. 10) I added high temp grease to the pulley shaft and installed new pulley. 11) Install new blower seal. 12) Install drum and new belt. 13) Re-install all the panels.

Couple screws behind the electrical panel at the top and the top pushed back and was able to remove front panel, and then it was pretty easy. Take the two screws on top front, lint trap screws . The lint trap vent needs to come off. Then the belt, drum comes out to access the idler pulley. I did replace two drum wheels, I saw there was 5. I would recommend replacing all of them, they didn’t move well…..

Desarme la puerta y coloque la nueva con mucha facilidad, nunca reparé un electrodoméstico antes de este, seguí el diagrama que encontré en el sitio para elegir la pieza que se rompio

Unplugged the Dryer first. Removed the two screws from the bottom panel using a 1/4 socket and removed the panel by pulling down and out. Reached behind the blower and removed the connectors from the old thermistor and then the thermistor itself by removing the two 1/4 inch hex head screws. Replaced with new part and after screwing back in, reconnected the wires and replaced the panel. From start to finish, it took me about 20 minutes.

I researched causes of the noise, zeroed it down to the idler pulley. I then got the dryer schematic and took the dryer apart after disconnecting the power and the vent. i did not have to remove the drum, the idler pulley was easily accessible once the top and back panels were removed. I simply removed the drive belt from tension off the pulley, removed the old pulley and installed the new one. Once finished the dryer was running whisper quiet.

I first tried replacing the Radiant Flame Sensor, which was located in a tight space and was very difficult to access. I finally gave up and called a handyman to replace it. That didn't fix my problem. I needed a new igniter. That was easy to replace, but it's fragile and I broke the first one...

It was a lot easier then I thought. Just watch the tutorial of how to fix it on this website and you wont have a problem.

I ordered the part(and a backup) and had it in two days. 5 days less than ordering from sears.

I removed the top first followed along with removing the side bracket that holds the circuit board. I then proceeded with removing the bottom cover and front panel. I disconnected the front panel from the control board and was able to slide the front panel upward. The door and blower housing was a bit tricky to pull out without thinking I was damaging something. I then replaced all the seals and cleaned the dryer after removing the drum and belt. I also replaced the drum support rollers. Afterwards I put everything back together and had an "E1" error and I pulled the thermostat out and wiped it down from all the lint and dryer worked perfect after that. Dryer takes the right amount of time to day clothes and no more rumbling noise. The instructions videos were VERY helpful.

Message indicated something amiss in the motor circuit. Followed Instructions in the on-board manual. Turned out to be the internal-bias thermostat, and the exhaust air thermistor both. Changed faulty parts, cleaned lint from the system and we are off and running again.
Thank You.
DW Pranger

Took back panel off, and it was really easy putting the new idler pulley in.

Disassemble dry. Put on new pulley wheel. Greased pulley wheel. Put dryer back together. Works great. Yours truly G.B.

first of all there is no video for this model dryer (cabrio accu-dry) the main difference is that the console is removed by removing 3 screws across the back top of console then using putty knife release spring fastener on each side ,slide forward and lift. remove one screw at top of control board and remove from plastic mount,and unplug connecting wires.remove top of cabinet lifting up and forward. The rest of install is typical to other models. The back panel doesn't come off this model. You have to access everything from the front.

Very easy repair... The video was really helpful too. I was able to find a different video that was closer to our model. (Front Loader HE) It probably took me a little longer than needed but I took the time to shop-vac everywhere I could, since it was all easy to get to. I opted for next day shipping so the shipping charges were more than the part. Tools I used were: Cordless drill-screw driver, 1/4in. socket, Phillips head bit and needle nose pliers for the control panel connections. Thank you again for making this so easy. Saved us a lot money by not calling an appliance repair tech.