7MWGD87HEDC0 Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

Remove top, front and drum. Top is removed by sliding a putty knife under the front corners and pushing the tabs back. Front is held with screws. Disconnect two electrical connectors. Rollers are easily accessible and changed.

Removed and replaced both the thermostat sensor and the ignitor. Tested thej dryer and it worked. Replaced the front panel and it was good to go.

I replaced both the thermal fuse and the thermistor at the same time. That seemed to fix the problem; but after a couple of days the dryer would not start. When pushing the Hold to Start button, the dryer just gave one beep and would not start. I did a resistance test on the old thermal fuse, and it was OK; so I put the old thermal fuse back in and the dryer works. Evidently, it was just the thermistor (thermostat, internal bias) that was broken. Both are very easy to change.

Doing my home work, I was told if I was "handy with my hands" I could do the work. Start to finish required 3+ hours. The instructions were not specific to my unit therefore, I had to "guess". My first surprise was encountered on step 2 - removing the top. My top was attached to the "brains" of the drier and therefore could not be removed. I actually had to disconnect the brains to remove the top. My second surprise was that I had to remove just about everything before I could get to the vent, which by the way, was simple. I finally accomplished the task, but....

Ordered $245 worth of parts for four possible fixes. None of the four fixes worked. Used an appliance repair person to do more troubleshooting. Fourteen days later and after spending an additional $380 ($625 total), a new control panel was installed. That solved the problem.

I removed the bottom access panel, with 2 hands i reached in behind the blower, i released the belt, i used a screwdriver to pop the retainer from the pully spindle, i removed and replaced the pully, i snapped the retainer back on and replaced the belt. I made sure the belt was on track and all was good. I put the bottom panel back on, it took all of 5 minutes. The hardest part was the retainer clip faces the rear of the dryer so you have to feel it. Also , the space is tight, use a smaller flathead screwdriver to get behind the clip, it will pop right off.

I simply removed the rear panal of the dryer. Removed the two wires from the fuse at the rear of the dryer. Attached an OEM meter across the two fuse connections and had no continuity. Ordered a new fuse and recieved it in 2.5 days.Replaced the fuse,reconnected the wires and replaced the rear panal. Started dryer and it now blows hot air and runs like new. I can't say enough about PartSelect. Great diagnosis using their website, the delivery was fast and I recieved the correct part at a good price. Very satisfied, Thanks PartSelect. Fred F

After opening the bottom access panel, I found a lot of lint build up which is very flammable. I took my leaf blower and cleaned it all out. Then I just followed the instructions that came with the part. But be careful as the igniter is fragile. I broke the first one...

The design of the dryer did not make the conversion easy, I had to disassemble the entire front end, top and remove the drum. The kit included a new spud that's it (22.00?). Anyway the gas valve is convertible from NAT to LP only requires turning a portion of the valve about 25 degrees. I managed with a screwdriver as I could not locate my snap ring pliers(just moved). The directions were spot on, read them through once before you start.

Watched Video - very helpful in repair Maytag Dryer working like new now Thanks for your guidance in my repair

I did what any novice would have done. I took the entire thing apart to get to the gas jet. I did not know about the thermal fuse until I got to the schematic behind the timer and controls. I was a tech back in the 70's and 80's and only worked on electric dryers. Back then I would remove the heater core and twist the coils together to save money. So I had no idea how a gas dryer heating unit worked. So now any one that reads this. You do not have to take the dryer completely apart, I did that for all of you. Just replace the thermal fuse on the back of the unit by unplugging that wires and removing the screws! It looks like a long white piece of plastic with 2 wires to it. You will find this under the full metal shield on the back of the unit. This should be about a 1 hour repair at the most!

I removed the base cover and cover over my lint blower. The thermal fuse is located on top of the blower housing. I removed the thermal fuse utilizing a small nutdriver and installed the new fuse.

Followed standard instructions regarding removal of top first & then the front panels. Realized after following this process that I did not have to remove top, but only one of front panels to obtain access to moisture sensor. If I have to do this again, the replacement of sensor will be much easier.

I removed all the panels, removed the tub, replaced the pulley, put the tub back in and replaced the panels. Just when I screwed the Last screw in the doorbell rang with the door switch which I installed immediately.

Glass door was broken with part still in door.
-put tape on glass so it would not fall on me as I dissembled door.
-removed and disassembled door by removing all screws/ torx.
-used shop vac to get most of the shards out then flushed with water for the rest.
-used shop vac to dry door.
-put back together. remember to put big bulge of glass down. the rounded part of the door is the bottom. do not over tighten as the screws go into plastic.
-all skill levels can do this job. it will only go together one way. the glass has a notch bulge that alines with the bracket. worst case is you have to put it together 3 times before you get it right. the door is reversible so it can open either to the right or the left giving you four combinations on how to install the glass. don't over tighten the phillips as they go into plastic. Go for it.