7MWFW97HDBD0 Whirlpool Washer - Instructions

Turn water off at the inlet valve of hose you are replacing. Disconnect inlet hose the washer and let water drain out in a bucket. Then remove old hose. Replace new hose to inlet valve then washer . Use pliers to tighten both ends. Turn on water to check leaks at both ends of hose.

Well, I am a 66 year old Grandma. I had to take off the entire back panel... no big deal ... then make sure to remember how the hose attaches to the bottom of the machine. Taking the clamp off with whimpy pliers was a little difficult due to the location. The most difficult part was laying on the floor and trying to use the stupid pliers that kept slipping off the clamp and try to shove the new hose on in the correct position. I just didn't have the grip power and manuverability to grab ... squeeze ... push the internal hose at the same time. I finally got it attached after 33 minutes. The rest of the hose attached litterally in a snap. Replaced the back panel and good to go!

Unplug appliance. Remove the back panel with the 1/4” nut driver and cordless drill. The pump is located as you face the back of the machine on the bottom. Remove four screws that hold pump in. Reverse the process and install new pump. Check the filter and clean out the housing.
Reinstall back panel and plug back in. Run a test load (no clothes) and test drain.

The repair was simple as you can imagine. Thought I could buy these legs at any big box store or at least at the local hardware store. No such luck. Partselect had the right product---easy to order and easy to install. Things around here are great.

Really was not a repair

This was an easy fix . PartSelect was quick and had all the info I needed to repair my washer. Plus shipping was super fast. Thanks

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

Removed rear cover (6 screws) unpluged harness from motor control and removed same. Replaced motor control reinstalled harness. Replaced rear cover. Parts used motor control board.

Removed top of washer and replaced flow meter.

Unplugged electric cord and turned off water supply. Remove 3 screws @ rear of washer and removed top panel. Removed clamps on hoses and electrical connector to flow meter, removed and replaced with new flow meter. Replaced the top panel, turned on water supply and plugged unit in. Finished in less than 15 minutes. Saved myself several hundred $

I opened the top by taking four screws from the back and lifted the top. The part to be replaced was clearly in view. I opened the clamps on the hoses, pulled the hoses off, removed the wires, and reversed the process with the new part. The washer works great now! I ordered the part on a Friday, and it was delivered the next day, even though I didn't pay for overnight!

I had replaced the flowmeter, but that didn't solve the problem, so I ordered the hot/cold solenoid fill part. Other than ONE screw that was unique -- the back retaining screws were nut driver screws, the one retaining screw was a torx which, of course, couldn't be seen unless you pulled the washer all the way out. Unscrewed that, unhooked the hose clamp with pliers and worried the hose off, removed the four electrical connections (which were TIGHT) and replaced the part. Turned on the water and was dismayed to get a d/l error code. After some colorful language learned from my drill sergeant 40 years ago, I realized that was "door lock" and closed the door tightly. Ran great and the Mrs. thinks I'm a hero.