79641379210 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

In order to replace the bearings of a front loader LG Washer you will need to disassemble the entire unit. you should have excellent mechanical skills to tackle this project with necessary tools. Plan on replacing both bearings and rear seal, also plan on replacing the spider and drum seal. The Spider that supports the inner drum will be corroded due in part to seal failure. By the time you are hearing the bearing noise the damage to the spider will have taken place and need replacing. You can watch a few videos on youtube with similar appliances to give you an idea of the project at hand. Once disassembled cleaned and inspected the assembly goes real smooth. The washer now works as good as new and is ready for another 10+ years of service. Doing this project myself has saved me from buying a new one and that savings amounts to over $1000 bucks. LG washers are built to last and you will see that while working on it! Good Luck and do your homework!

Unpluged -shut off water removed 2 screws on lid,removed lid took 2 screws out holding part on swapped the hoses out and pluged wires in.

Could not do the repair. Partselect sent me the wrong parts even though I gave them the model number and the brand they sent me the wrong parts.

I already had the top of the washer open, from previous disassembly to clean the front loader seal, and when I ran a trial load, noticed a small 1/4" tear in the hose bellows that attaches to the drum.

Very simple repair, remove the existing hose by loosening the clamps, paying attention to their orientation. Install the existing hose clamps onto the new hose, install and tighten the hose clamps.

5 minute job, if the washer top is off (which is also simple).

just put new part in very simple only problem was shipping yall used fedex went to 4 states and one state twice they finally gave it to USPS so it took almost 9 days to get here

1. Unplugged electric chord from wall.
2. Pulled washer out into open area to get behind it.
3. Turned off hot and cold water faucets
4. Used channel locks to remove hot water and cold water hoses from back of washer. Dropping hose into a bucket to catch water from hose.
5. Removed screws (Phillips screw driver) holding top to back of washer.
6. Pulled back on the top and lifted off washer.
7. Arranged new intake valve to mock location and setting of old intake valve.
8. Using Phillip screw driver, unscrewed old intake valve from back of washer.
9. Unconnected wiring from old intake valve. These were easily identified and not needed to mark left right center.
10. Using pliers, pinched hose clips and moved to middle of the hose. Did this for all 3 hoses.
11. Removed hose from old intake and connected to same location on new intake. Repeated for all 3 hoses.
12. Using pliers, pinched the clips and moved to the end of the new intake valve. Did the for all 3 hoses.
13. Using Phillips screw driver, screwed in the new intake valve where the old intake valve was located.
15. Inserted the wiring connects into new intake valve.
16. Reconnected water hoses back into washer machine (after inspecting and cleaning plastic strainer traps)
17. Turned on water faucets
18. Plugged in washer.
19. Ran an empty load for a cycle.
20. Did not fail.
21. Reattached top to washer. Laying down an inch from front and push forward to hear a click or lock. Then screwed in the 2 screws.
22. Pushed washer back into original location.

We have already performed 1/2 dozen loads.

replaced switch as shown in the video...Worked great

Turn off circuit breaker. Turn off water at shutoff valve usually located under sink. Disconnect water line from dishwasher. Disconnect wires for the power feed from cord, Marked corresponding wires upon removal for re-installation. Remove 2 mounting screws that secure dishwasher to counter. Slide dishwasher out from counter and turn upside down. Use a blanket to prevent scratching of surfaces. Locate component on the back portion of the dishwasher. Unplug 2 wiring harnesses. My part was held on by 2 phillip screws. One in front, the other in the back along the leg bracket support. Once removed, reverse the order of removal. The i a You Tube video you can locate fr this removal. They said that you needed to release a clip to get the part out. Mine had a screw holding it on the back side. This difference cause about an extra 1/2 hour before I was able to figure out that there was NO clip that was being shown on the video. After that, The replacement went smoothly and we were having the dishes washed later that day.

Watched video on U-Tube , unplug power cord, turn off water, take top off washing machine, remove water hoses, unscrew parts, remove hoses with pliers, install replacement parts, put all back together. Does not leak any more !

I tipped the right side of the washer up 9.5 inches using two 2x4s and I was able to remove and replace the old hose with the tools described.

I followed the video and it was quite simple. There was an extra sheet metal screw at the bottom of the front panel which kept it from coming free of the three tabs. On the two pump wite connectors I made a mental note that the black wires were on top. The repair also fixed the lack of water flow through the degeterent dispenser. I was afraid of putting the tub seal back in place as a pro struggled with it when it was new and under warranty. It really was no problem at all. Take some phone pics along the way boosted my confidence.

It was easy to remove the rubber gasket to get at the door lock. Removing the door lock and replacing was simple enough, but getting the metal ring securing the gasket was cumbersome and challenging. This took most of the time.
However, after replacing the door lock it was obvious that this was not the problem. I had to remove the new part and replace the old one.
For future, it was the pob circuit board that was defective and had to replace it. Apparently this is not an uncommon problem as there are a number of UTube videos about this.This job was more involved and took me over an hour and resolved the issue.

With my wife's help( 2 shoukder surgeries ), pulled it forward, unplugged power source, turned Both water supplies off.
Removed two phillip screws from each upper ( plastic) holder.
Bumped top from front( works really well if you can use both arms,and with rubber gloves on for traction, or go to harbor freight purchase a glass suction cup) .
I marked ( with a sharpie) the solenoids/hoses,and wires, ( facing front ,right to left,1,2,3.), removed plugs,loosened clamps and pushed them back,gave each hose a twist,and removed them.
Took two screws 5/16 from the back that hold the valve assembly in out.
Removed old valve assembly, put new in place, reverse procedure for assembly. Once all is hooked up,and water dried, I plugged in,turned water on watched for two cycles( you need not stand over it,if it leaks you will know it) to double check, installed top,and we pushed it back in place.
Very simple to do,these washing machines are so easy to work on.
Now we enjoy a dry laundry room,and you can to.
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When to utube typed in my problem, very easy fix

Looked at videos on line at Parts Select. Very easy instructions to watch and follow. After unplugging the washer all I had to do was turn off the cold water valve, remove the supply line, two screws to get the lid off, then two screws to remove the valve and disconnected the electric connector tabs. Took pliers to back the three hose clamps off. The best tip was replacing each hose back on the valve one at a time to prevent mix ups. I did everything in reverse after installation. I ran one short cycle to test the leak. Works perfectly!
A tip I saw on You Tube - I have vinyl flooring in my wash room and a repair guy said to spray a light shot of WD 40 under the feet. It doesn’t take much. Man, my washer slid like it was on wheels! I wiped away any excess spray and let it dry under the feet. I’m not sure how this works on other types of floors.