79641282310 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

I followed the video. Everything worked exactly as described. i ran a quick cycle and everything seemed to be fine. Started a wash and the machine was going fine but stopped, and wouldn't drain. I thought that maybe it might be the Rotor Position Sensor assembly, which I had already purchased just in case.But first i drained the machine and checked out the pump filter. Plugged solid. I'm guessing when the pump went there must have been a lot of lint and debris in the machine. something you might want to check out, after that repair. Thanks. you guys saved me a couple of hundred dollars

Line up the plunger with the existing slots in the door and push in.

NOTE: When testing it was evident that the magnet was not as strong as the original one. I would rate as one step up from useless.

Watched a YouTube video on valve replacement. Then when I knew what to expect, the repair job was a breeze.

the magnetic door plunger fell on the floor, would not stay in place and did not hold the door closed. Received a new on, put it in place. works just like it is supposed to. took all of 2 seconds. great service from
Partselect. got the new part in less than a week.

Thank you

pops right into hole

Unpluged -shut off water removed 2 screws on lid,removed lid took 2 screws out holding part on swapped the hoses out and pluged wires in.

2 hose clamps and a hose, easy! This would be a very common cause of leaks in washers due to all the movement inside.

Simply inserted new plunger/magnet back into door with thumb&finger until you hear the little locking tabs click. No tools required.

Hardest part of the job was getting the washer away from the wall. :)
Disconnect power & water
Remove top panel, two screws at back
Remove two screws holding valve to washer body
Use pliers to loosen and pull back spring clamps on three water tubes
Remove tubes by twisting and pulling
Reverse process to install new valve.

I am convinced that the original valve began leaking because I had heard water hammer for years as that valve opened and closed during operation. I bought two water hammer arrestors (less than $30) that attach inline with the inlet hoses and I think that will prevent the problem from recurring.

I already had the top of the washer open, from previous disassembly to clean the front loader seal, and when I ran a trial load, noticed a small 1/4" tear in the hose bellows that attaches to the drum.

Very simple repair, remove the existing hose by loosening the clamps, paying attention to their orientation. Install the existing hose clamps onto the new hose, install and tighten the hose clamps.

5 minute job, if the washer top is off (which is also simple).

Super straightforward to diagnose and repair.

There was puddle under the washer.

I removed the top (screws in rear, slide top toward rear slightly and lift) and followed the trail of water up to the top washer hose between the drum and detergent tray.

Two hose clamps to remove and replace, then replace the top and ready to go.

1. Unplugged electric chord from wall.
2. Pulled washer out into open area to get behind it.
3. Turned off hot and cold water faucets
4. Used channel locks to remove hot water and cold water hoses from back of washer. Dropping hose into a bucket to catch water from hose.
5. Removed screws (Phillips screw driver) holding top to back of washer.
6. Pulled back on the top and lifted off washer.
7. Arranged new intake valve to mock location and setting of old intake valve.
8. Using Phillip screw driver, unscrewed old intake valve from back of washer.
9. Unconnected wiring from old intake valve. These were easily identified and not needed to mark left right center.
10. Using pliers, pinched hose clips and moved to middle of the hose. Did this for all 3 hoses.
11. Removed hose from old intake and connected to same location on new intake. Repeated for all 3 hoses.
12. Using pliers, pinched the clips and moved to the end of the new intake valve. Did the for all 3 hoses.
13. Using Phillips screw driver, screwed in the new intake valve where the old intake valve was located.
15. Inserted the wiring connects into new intake valve.
16. Reconnected water hoses back into washer machine (after inspecting and cleaning plastic strainer traps)
17. Turned on water faucets
18. Plugged in washer.
19. Ran an empty load for a cycle.
20. Did not fail.
21. Reattached top to washer. Laying down an inch from front and push forward to hear a click or lock. Then screwed in the 2 screws.
22. Pushed washer back into original location.

We have already performed 1/2 dozen loads.

I followed the video and it was quite simple. There was an extra sheet metal screw at the bottom of the front panel which kept it from coming free of the three tabs. On the two pump wite connectors I made a mental note that the black wires were on top. The repair also fixed the lack of water flow through the degeterent dispenser. I was afraid of putting the tub seal back in place as a pro struggled with it when it was new and under warranty. It really was no problem at all. Take some phone pics along the way boosted my confidence.

Looked at videos on line at Parts Select. Very easy instructions to watch and follow. After unplugging the washer all I had to do was turn off the cold water valve, remove the supply line, two screws to get the lid off, then two screws to remove the valve and disconnected the electric connector tabs. Took pliers to back the three hose clamps off. The best tip was replacing each hose back on the valve one at a time to prevent mix ups. I did everything in reverse after installation. I ran one short cycle to test the leak. Works perfectly!
A tip I saw on You Tube - I have vinyl flooring in my wash room and a repair guy said to spray a light shot of WD 40 under the feet. It doesn’t take much. Man, my washer slid like it was on wheels! I wiped away any excess spray and let it dry under the feet. I’m not sure how this works on other types of floors.

All I did was first of all and since it is so heavy I put 2 furniture sliders under the 2 front feat because I had to pull it out from where it was onto the carpet and the back feat I just sprayed some wd40 so the would slide on the tile floor. Then I took the top off by removing 2 bottom screws and pulled the lid back and up and there was the cold valve. Next I pulled the electric tabs off. Don’t worry they go on the same way they were on. Do not at this time remove the screws on the valve until you pull each off one at a time and place one at a time back on the new valve. Then remove the screws and the old valve and put the screws back on for new valve and you are done. Replace cold water hose turn on water check if no leaks replace lid, you are as if new once again. Good luck. Cost for all that is around $50