79094122401 Kenmore Range - Instructions

TURN BREAKER TO RANGE OFF! Move range out to access rear of the unit. Remove 6 screws to gain access to rear of controls panel. Pull knob off switch. Remove 2 pan head Phillips screws to take switch out. Lugs not in matching pattern but are clearly labled, swap wires one at a time. Reverse the disassembly steps and push the range back in place. DONE

Started by replacing element which was clearly broken. Still no heat. So then I changed the oven sensor. Was disappointed that when I received the sensor I had to cut and splice the connector that was on it with the old one that came off the old sensor. Did that and still no heat so I had to buy a new clock/timer. Went to another store for that because of the connector not being the right type and there was no picture of the clock/timer like the other website. Overall ok, normall troubleshooting steps, just wish I didn't have to cut and splice the connector on the new sensor I purchased from here.

This should take approx 15-30 mins. It took me 1.5 hours as I pushed the terminals into the wrong end of the block. It's very difficult to get them out when you do that... However, there are no easy instructions on the block or in the instructions to tell you which end to push the terminals into!!! So, with a 50:50 chance of getting it right, I got it wrong. I think most people would need to buy a new part if they do this. It would be very much easier if the block, had an arrow that simply said IN here so that this type of simple mistake is less easy to do... If you get that right, the fix is quite and straight forward. Good luck.

shut off power to stove. Opened the oven door, removed the racks. removed 2 screws holding the element in place. gently pulled element out to expose connections. removed connections. discard old element. reattach connections to new element and reinstall. very simple.

i first replaced element after old smoked & quit. replaced switch but i noticed when i started to replace the wires one at a time something didn't seem right. after checking the #s on the old one, they didn't match up with the new one.luckily i had the stove diagram from a packet on the back of the stove. i traced each wire according to the diagram and everything worked out fine. i'm just glad i didn't replace each wire to wire.the #'s were on the switch where each wire went which was different than the org. even though they looked the same.

My problem with the door was a bit serious because not only would I lose heat from the top of the door, but could not use the convection oven unless the door closed tightly.

However, the repair could not have gone easier. The instructions were very simple and totally accurate. I would suggest that anyone doing this job with a door that has full glass across the front should have a helper neaby. The door is quite heavy.

This probably the easiest repair job I have ever done, and I have done many.

The old element burnt a hole in itself and just glowed in an area about the size of a quarter. I unplugged the oven, removed the two screws that held the element and removed it. I plugged the oven back in so we could use the top burners. When I went to install the new element I did not unplug the oven as the controls were off. I did not know the element was hot from the outlet (by design) so when I tried to attach the new element sparks flew and it welded itself to the wire so I jerked it looose. I then unplugged the oven, replaced a blown fuse, and installed the element.

removed old terminal block . cut wires and spliced new terminal block and insulated with shrink wrap. Very eazy

I first turned the power supply off to my oven. Then I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the ends. After that I connected the new element to the wires on my oven and secured the element with the two screws and turned the power back on. I pushed the oven-on button and now I'm back in business.

Watched your video and quickly made the repair. I did have to remove the back of the oven (4 screws) to connect the electrical leads to the element. Frigidaire uses a wire harness that prevent you from pulling the wires into the oven to disconnect them as the video shows. No problem; a really easy fix.

Removed the door and the inner panel of the door and replaced the hinges. Replaced the screws and put the oven door back on. It closes tight now just like new. I have now ordered the replacement cap so my oven looks like new again.

I only have one suggestion to make the installation easier. If the manufacturer would prethread the holes in the new parts, it would save time from having to prethread the holes with the screws, prior to installing them.

removed element , cut wires, conected wires,replaced element

After 15 minutes of frustration and back breaking I removed the oven door and had much better access to the panel, from there on it was all down hill.

Sensor very accessible. Pull off the back panel, disconect the sensor and slide out from back of oven. The original plug was cut off the sensor, as well as the new one to get the proper connector type on the new sensor. Soldered and heat shrink, and presto we had our new sensor ready for install. Install was about 5 minutes which included putting the back panel on the range. Pretty easy and works like new. Total time for project was about 20 minutes.

When I pulled the element out of the back panel of the oven to remove it, the electrical connection got caught on the edge of the hole in the panel and disappeared back into the oven insulation. It was difficult to find and pull it back out to reinstall it on the new element.