79041313413 Kenmore Range - Instructions

I searched the web for a replacement and Parts Select had a picture and part number for the exact same probe. I ordered the probe and it arrived very quickly. The problem was that the probe I received didn't match the picture as shown on the web site. Instead I received a probe that was a different color and the actual probe was about 2" shorter than the one I was replacing. I called customer service and was told that the probe I received was the new version that the older version was discontinued. If they had updated their pictures on the web site I would not have ordered the probe. Parts Select customer service did apologize for the issue and offered to have me return for a refund.

I will order from Parts Select but I will call first to verify that the item pictured is the actual item being shipped. Parts Select please update the part pictures to show the actual items being sold.

Installation of the temparature sensor, one of the technician recommended parts took no time, just two screws and a snap off/snap on part. It did not fix the problem. I then replaced the main control panel, which requires more work, but didn't solce the ussue either. I then replaced the thermal fuse, which wasn't mentioned by tech support, and required much more disassebly of the top panels of the stove, with still no fix to the problem. I am waiting to replace the thermostat heat sensor unit, the only other part in the circuit controlling power supply, requiring removal of the stove top again,

After a brief discussion with CS about the electric stove part was shipped it arrived and I proceeded to install I found it needed to be installed sideways not up & down like the old one. The terminals did not line up so I put the black lead first and the purple lead last in doing that I burned out the switch??? was not easy to install as the video showed his switch matched each wire? My installation was sideways??

Removed the wires that I could, then terminal block. Installing the new terminal block was very easy; however the wires that arced were fused to the terminal bock screws and needed to be cut and new connectors had to be put on the wires to allow them to be reattached to the block safely.
Once all was replaced and reinstalled the oven has worked great. The length of the repair was increased because of the melted parts and having to run to the store to get the new wire connectors big enough to fit on the wires. If we were simply replacing the block and had not encountered the melted ends, it would have been a very quick and easy repair.

I follow the video on your site

removed the screws holding the front part of the door and from there worked my way, untill the third glass.
It took a couple hours, my first time,. Overall easy,

on the back side of the wall oven the sensor wire was ziptied tight. we had to totally pull oven out of its wall space, remove back panel, unhook zip tie, feed through sensor hole around insulation, connect and then replace back and return and relevel the oven. I have

I was forced to call in a pro repairman. Will cost me at least $150 for part and repairman. I could have done job if instructions on how to rewire had been included.

First, I shut the OFF the main breaker. Then, I removed 2 screws holding the thermostat inside the oven. The wiring harness was too short to pull through small opening. I tried to fish the wires out with a piece of wire, but no luck. Eventually, the wiring harness disconnected and I had no choice but to remove entire wall oven from wall cavity.

Before starting this, again, make sure the main breaker is OFF:
1. Remove 2 screws that hold the oven in place. Mine were just below the display panel.
2. Remove silver trim at bottom of oven.
3. The power cable (flexible conduit, running down to the floor inside the cabinet) was too short to pull the oven out of the wall. I had to disconnect the oven wiring at the junction box (again...make sure the main breaker is OFF). I photographed the wiring set-up before disconnecting any wires. Once disconnected, I was able to pull the oven out of the wall cavity.
4. I placed the oven unit on a bar-height stool with a blanket underneath.
5. I removed the sheet metal shield on the back of the oven. (Roughly 10 screws on the sides.)
6. I found the wires to the old thermostat and pulled it through the opening in the back.
7. I disconnected the old thermostat harness, connected the new one.
8. I pushed the new thermostat into the oven and reconnected the 2 screws.
9. Everything looked good. I reassembled the back, slid the oven into the wall.
10. Reconnected the wiring.
11. Turned the breaker back on. Tested and it worked.
12. Secured the stove and installed the trim.

my original part arrived and it did not fit. When I called to explain the problem I was told it was the wrong part. The big problem is... Frigidaire calls the receptacle a terminal block kit as well as a terminal block kit which is a totally different part. I tried to explain that to several different folks I spoke to at your company as well as Frigidaire but I'm not sure if I got that point across. Take a look at part # 530 393 5058 and part # 530 440 9888 and you will see that they both mention terminal block kit. Hopefully the part I am getting from Frigidaire is an OEM part and will fit.

Removed 2 screws located underneath the front lip of the range top. Lifted range top and supported. Removed the 2 screws at either end of the support bracket. This bracket holds the elements in position. Be careful not to let the elements fall out when removing. The elements are now free to replace. Swap out the old with the new and be sure to reconnect the wires to the correct terminals on the new element. I did 1 wire at a time so as to not make a mistake at reconnecting the wires. Then replace the support bracket with the 2 screws and lower the range top in place and put back the 2 screws that hold the range top in position. VOILA!! Success. It works. The wife is now happy again:)

Watching the video showed an easy, unscrew and screw back on process while connecting the wires back. It was really that simple. Once it was complete (not even 10mins), plugged it back in, and its been working great since.

I actually watched Youtube while I was changing it. This video was not actually the same make up of my oven, even though the I typed in the model number. I manage to figure it any with the steps anyway. It was harder then I expected but not horrible. I think I did pretty well for a women. Patti

Took 3 panels off to get to the electric block. Replaced electrical block and put it back together. Still no change.

Checked the burner and no power to heat the burner. removed the old switch and put on the new one.