66513209N412 Kenmore Dishwasher - Instructions

removed unit from cabinet disconnected water and drain lines replaced heater very easy to do it took more time to remove unit from under counter than replace heater piece of cake..

I manually attached the track stop to the right track in the disheasher.

followed directions, a kid could have done it,

Removing and installing the new part was fairly simple. We removed the water hose first since it is the easiest to see. We then removed the screw holding the part to the metal frame. We slid out the part out of the holder to remove the black hose and electric plug (it is like the old phone jacks). After it was completely off we plugged in the electric to the new part which was very easy since it can only go in one way. We slid the new part in place and attached the black hose. We attached the piece to the frame with the one screw and last we attached the gold (garden hose) connection. We turned on the water to look for any leaks then turned the power on and ran it through a partial rinse to be sure there were no leaks.

Pulled up old spray arm and snapped new on in place. Took less than a minute and no tools. Dishwasher is like new again.

Ordering the part was very easy. It shipped fast and delivered over 3 days. It fit perfectly

based on advice here, concluded the problem was likely that the part "Valve-Inlt" was defective. Our dishwasher intake line is copper and had already developed a partial kink from sometime in the past, so I had to be careful. The final connection to the new part had to happen in place: very close to the floor and underneath, because I didn’t want to stress the copper line. Plus, the shutoff was defective, and it was always leaking while I connected. Awkward. As I was threading on, it started to look like it might be cross-threaded, so I stopped and reversed. Slid the washer back out and disconnected the drain line so I could tip the dishwasher u and inspect. It was going on cross-threaded. Not hard to happen on a metal to a plastic connection. To solve, I carefully made very small bends in the copper inlet line until when it would later be brought up underneath to connect to the inlet valve, it would be as perfectly aligned as possible. This worked. As I tightened, it went a little easier and the leak stopped. A good moment. Tightened a bit more, but didn’t want to overdo it as that can cause other problems. Now the moment of truth: let’s run it. DISHWASHER WORKED AGAIN. Runs fine now and we are glad to have it back. Was satisfying I could do this on my own. The advice and guides here made that possible. Thank you.

Followed directions.

I followed installation instructions from this site and all went well.

There were no instructions provided with the part, however, I watched a video on uTube with a step by step instructions. By following those instructions, I was able to replace the part in about 30 minutes. If you watch the video, anyone should be able to do this. I am a 64yr old female and I was able to do this myself.

You have to replace both Rack adjusters even if you're only dealing with one broken wheel. Easy job just watch the video provided.

Watched the repair video on line and followed it step by step. Very easy repair job and good quality repair parts.

Following the video lesson on your website, the installation was fast, easy and simple. Thanks

Easy. Watched how-to video????

Followed the video. Had no problem except getting the old one off. Had to go find a video on that Other than that was pretty easy