64325419 General Electric Dryer - Instructions

first I removed the screws with the nutdriver at the bottom of the dryer at the back..then I could see the belt was broken...next I took off the 2 nuts at the back that hold the top on ..then opened the dryer front door and unscrewd the 4 screws holding the top on....then I lifted the top up and to the side...then all I had to do was take out 2 screws one on each side of dryer front and the the front was open enough that I could slide the new belt on dryer..then screwed the front back on...then placed the top on and went to the back of dryer and put belt on pulley using the diagram I found in the instructions inside the dryer top...really a lot easier than it sounds...easy fix saved me from buying another dryer

First unplug dryer... very important. You have to identify the appropriate size socket wrench and locate all necessary screws to remove top panel of dryer and front panel. Locate belt drive. Remove old belt , replacing it with new belt attaching belt to dryer drum . Remove back panel of dryer to better reach and adjust belt onto tension wheels. Put dyer back together. YouTube gives you an idea of how to properly change a belt on dryer

I replaced the drum bearing slides and also the main front drum bearing. First, disconnect the electric. Then I removed the two screws inside the door that attach the top cover, removed the top cover, removed two screws that attach the front cover, lift up the front cover and pivot it to the left leaving the wiring attached, removed the front bearing assembly by pulling it out at the top and then up, installed the new front bearing ring and snap it into place, installed the drum bearing slides, reinstalled the front cover, reinstalled the top cover, and tested the drum by turning it by hand first and then under power. The whole operation took less than 15 minutes....

I had never tried to fix a dryer before, but I checked your site and found detailed troubleshooting instructions. I found several parts diagrams that made me think it would not be too difficult. I found the GE Repair manual for my dryer and ordered it. I was able to determine that the sqeaking was in the front, and probably the slides were worn, as opposed to the drum roller. Whew! My daughter and I removed the front and checked them. They were totally worn away and the felt was crimped. We cleaned it up and ordered the replacement parts from you. When they arrived we made the repairs. One of the drum slide holders was too worn to hold the new slide so we applied a bit of super glue to hold it in place. My dryer is running quietly again. I am so glad for your online information. This was an fairly easy fix!

Top is hinged in back, removing the 4 screws over the door under the top allowed the top to open. Removing the 2 screws near the top of the door panel allowed it's removal. Marked and disconnected wiring. Lifted drum through top. New bearing housing required 3 mounting holes to be tapped to 10-24. Installed bearing and backing shims with old hardened allen head mounting screws inside drum while wife held bearing in back of drum. Furnished 3- 10-24 lock nuts to lock mounting screws in place from their back side. Reinserted drum through dryer top with belt on drum. Hardest part was getting the belt on motor pulley while holding the idler in it's correct position due to small access holes at the very bottom in rear panel. Works just fine again.

Unplug dryer from electrical outlet
unscrew 4 screws back off dryer panel
unscrew 2 screws each off sides that hold panel
had to get a wrench set to unscrew rotary start switch from front panel because the two sides would not come off. tilt front panel and unscrewed rotary switch with wrench. Insert and screwed in rotary switch. Place on new knob. Plugged dryer in electical outlet and tested parts. Everything worked. Place screws back in sides and back panel. Done Very easy.

I order the parts needed to replace the slides, the felt ,and the bearing on a Sunday afternoon. The parts arrived on Tuesday even though I used regular shipping. I followed the instructions posted by another customer. It was extremely easy and only took me about fifteen minutes. My only problem was that I needed 2 each of the front slide and the rear slide, and I unknowingly only ordered 1 of each. I order the other 2 on Tuesday via regular shipping and they arrived on Wed. AMAZING!!!!

When we first heard the screeching i thought right away that it was the belt. we ordered a new one and after i replaced it the dryer was still just as loud. I wished i went here first. Right away i found others with the same problem, did the same repair which was just taking 2 screws out, sliding the top and front panel off(watch for the electric wire connected to the panel) and replace a couple of plastic slides. now it is better than ever.

After ensuring all 5 temp sensors were not open, replaced the timer assy by removing the back of the control section. ( 5 screws ) . removed both wire connectors and 1 screw. removed the old timer assy and knob. put old knob on new timer, installed into slots, installed screw and replaced wire connectors. replaced back panel and vent hose, applied power. Works like new

Opened up the package and took off existing door handle. The new one snapped right into place. This took all of 10 seconds!

Removed the star bit screws on the top of the control panel then removed the front by opening the door and removing the screws in the upper corners of the door jam. I then removed the top which exposed the drum slides. NOTE: This model requires 4 drum slides and NOT two as specified in the video.

I removed several torx srews across the back control panel. Removed two philips screws under top of front dryer door. Pulled up on top surface of dryer case. Removed two more screws on backside of front door panel. Pulled front door panel forward and inserted drum slides into slots that they just popped into with a small button rod to keep them in place. The old drum slides were completely worn down or fell off. It runs like a new one again. It is over 10 years old.
The new door handle just snapped into place.
Original door handle had been broken off for several years.

This is the third time for a belt on this 28 year old dryer. Not too much to it. Unplug the dryer. Open the door. Remove the screws holding on the front panel and loosen the screw at the bottom. Disconnect the wires to the door switch and lift off the front panel and start up the shop vac to clean out the lint - there is a lot to be found in various places. Slide the new belt over the front of the drum and make sure there are no twists. You can now reverse the order to mounte the front panel but don't close the top so you have light to see inside. Go around to the back panel and remove the machine bolts holding on the access panel at the back. This allows access to the motor and belt tensioner. Get the shop vac out here and get to some more lint. Google the model number to find a diagram on how to route the belt. Put the belt on the motor shaft and around the tensioner as depicted. Occaisionally the plastic idler pully is worn and this can be the cause of the brokent belt. If the idler wheel does not spin freely, squeads or is cracked it should be replaced or you will be right back replacing the belt again. If all is fine it is time for a test run. CAUTION - you can plug the dryer in but keep your hands out of the cabinet as there are live exposed 220 volt terminals exposed. This allows you to observe that all is working and not binding during a test run with NO heat. If all is fine, unplug the dryer and put the covers back on. Reconnect the exhaust hose (now is a good time to clean that and the vent to outdoors as well).

First I watched the repair video on partselect.com and that really helped. It was really easy to replace the slides. I even ordered a new top bearing, old one was busted, and replaced it. Thank you for your help.

Old handle popped out by pulling back and out. Inserted new handle by pushing in and forward. Easy!