6349 - Instructions

The repair man shouldnt have opened his big mouth. He told me exactly what the problem was over the phone, but said he couldnt get to it for a few days. 20 minutes later I found the part and overnighted it to my house. Removed the back panel with a few screws. Couldnt have been easier.

Washer originally purchased from Sears. Called Sears for repair. $65.00 to show up. Diagnosed the problem as a Bad belt and pump. Asked for approx. $250 to repair. I declined and ordered a belt and pump from PartSelect.com for half the cost. Took 10-15 minutes to install. Turned the washer on and put it through a drain cycle, it leaked all over the floor. Turns out the only problem was a cracked Outer Tub to Pump Hose. It took about 10 minutes to install. Whala, no leak. Now while I purchased an un-needed pump and belt from PartSelect.com, not their problem. Even though I purchased two items that were not required, the cost was still half of what Sears wanted to charge me for a repair that would not have fixed the problem. I will certainly continue to use and recommend PartSelect.com.

After turning the water off and unplugging the machine, I took the front panel off the washing machine. I then slipped the belt off the pump sprocket. The pump was right in the front and easy to remove. All I needed was a screwdriver, for the hose clamps, and a 5/16" socket to remove the old pump. I then installed the new pump, with the existing screws, re-attached the 2 hoses, slipped the belt back on, and popped the front panel back into place. The new pump works great and the leak is gone. The whole job onlt took about 30 minutes.

The valve was leaking. I shut off the water to the machine and unplugged the power supply. I removed the defective valve. I then installed the new replacement valve reconnecting the 3 hoses and the 4 wires to the selenoid. I plugged it in and tried it before I pushed the machine back in place. I had to retighten one of the hose connections due to leaking. The leak stopped and I then pushed the machine back in place.

It saved me some $500.00, the cost of a new machine.

Took a look at the new door switch assembly, used a socket wrench to remove the old, took wires off of old and attached them to the corresponding terminal on the new. attached the new assembly inside the top panel. Works!

Found noise to be belt slapping the base sheet metal, from being too loose. Belt was loose because the drive pulley was worn and one side of pulley was loose! Used allen wrench to loosen the pulley set screw, and pryed off the old pulley. Replace d with new pulley and new belts. Works and sounds like new!

The instructional video clearly told me how to remove access panels. I was able to observe the leak during operation, and determined it was coming from the siphon break and running down the internal drain hose. The video clearly showed me how to access the part and replace it. This saved me a $300 service call for sure. Thank-you for your excellent guidance. We're going for 30 years of operation from this appliance!

Lets just say thank god for part select!!!! # 1 By far. This was a one two three job.

I turned the dial to other selections and nothing worked, no power. I checked the fuse box, but nothing was off, and then I checked to make sure electricity was working with a light bulb. I googled the situation and came across this site and read other posts as they sounded exactly like what I was experiencing. I ordered the complete lid assembly not just the fuse. The item arrived quickly in two days. After about an hour, as it was pretty easy to replace, the washer was working again! Thank you all for posting, as it saved me at least a couple hundred dollars.

Removed top. Removed agitator and tubs . Replaced seals and reassembled.

opened front of washer, removed motor, replaced glides and springs, installed motor and replaced belts. Installed new hoses and vacuum breaker. Its been a week now and no leaks or other problems.

Easily

Our Maytag (A308) washer is now about 29 yrs old. I put in a PartSelect water valve 3 yrs ago. When it started leaking recently I found the cuplrit to be a flexible hose to the outer basis. The front came off easily (two screws at the bottom) and the hose clamps required some cleaning. I recommend purchasing new clamps. Under 30 minutes to get it running again.

Unplug from electrical outlet.Unscrewed control panel and laid it open. The switch is in 2 parts. Removed wires and unscrewed each switch. Put wires back on and tightened switch back to mounting plate. No brainer. Tried washer and worked perfectly. Two tips: Check fuse on plate to make sure it isn't burned out before ordering any parts. Secondly when installing if you have older model washer there is a nib that sticks up on mounting plate that keeps the switch from installing correctly. Cut this nib off with a wire cutter and then install. The directions don't mention that.

First closed hot & cold water faucets feeding the two washer water hoses, then turned the machine on fill momentarily to bleed off water pressure in hoses, and unplugged power cord. Used pliers to help break seal on brass hose ends, removed old hoses. Removed 1/4 & 5/16 sheet metal screws, replaced leaky valves. New assembly was EATON Made in USA, high quality. Replaced rusted outlet hose spring clamp with "IDEAL" stainless screw clamp. Replaced unit in machine, installed new hoses, runs fine.