59679212013 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

My son (who does HVAC, but not appliance repair) did some investigating by taking front and back panels off and determined that the evaporator coil was freezing over because the defrost wire was not heating up. He and his girlfriend did some real-time internet searching for diagnostic info because NO control diagram was included with the refrigerator. He determined the problem was most likely the electronic control board. Ordered and installed a new board and the refrigerator is back to working fine. Took about 2 hours to diagnose the problem and 1/4 hour to actually install the control board. Kind of disappointing that this control board failed when the refrigerator was less that 4 years old.

Truth is, this took a couple hours of cursing, but that was due to poor information and no prior experience. I imagine the next one would take 20 minutes. The issues are these: videos tell you to use a putty knife to pry the old switch out. That is harder than it seems because each switch has a plastic spring that pops open to hold the switch on, and you can't access the spring when the switch is installed. So it is important to use the knife on the side of the switch (left or right of spring -- look at the new switch), and back and forth until the switch is worked out. Then it can get worse. The new switch has to plug in electrically before it can be installed mechanically. In my case, with the switch on the fridge wall rather than the top, the outlet for the plug was encased in foam insullation. That gives the appearance that the plug was fixed, immovable, which makes it impossible to plug it in electrically before the switch is in place, and of course once it is in place you can't then plug it in. The problem here was poor instructions. Just scrape out a lot of the foam around the plug and you find that the plug is really not fixed, but attached to reasonably long wires that allow you to plug it in with the switch a couple inches from the wall, and then insert the switch. None of the online instructions tell you this about the wires.

Let the ice in the freezer melt while installing P trap drain tube

Followed the video on the web site and proceeded in a slow to moderate speed. Didn't rush the job. It went smoothly

My freezer compartment gasket was torn and needed replacement. This was on a bottom freezer Kenmore refrigerator. I couldn't find directions for how to take the freezer compartment door off, and figuring out how was the hardest part. Here are the instructions:
1. At least 24 hours prior to starting, remove the gasket from the packaging and lay it out in a warm area, to allow the creases to come out.
2. Unplug the refrigerator.
3. You will have to take BOTH doors off, so put at least the freezer compartment contents in a cooler so they don't thaw. Also remove all items from the refrigerator and freezer door.
4. Remove the refrigerator door first - remove the plastic cover from the top hinge, then remove the 3 metal screws holding the hinge in place. Lift the door up, and it will come right off. Set it aside.
5. Now remove the freezer door - there is one bolt head, for the top hinge pin. Remove it, and lift the door up and put it down on a table.
6. Towards the center, pull up on the old gasket, and use a pair of diagonal cutters to cut it in half. It will take a few cuts, but eventually you will get it out and cut in half. Then remove the old gasket.
7. The new gasket simply presses in. Start at two diagonal corners, then press the other two corners in, then do the straight sections.
8. Now replace the freezer door, then the refrigerator door, plug in the refrigerator, and put the contents back in.

Access back of unit, lower left corner. Remove wire capacitor retention clip. Unplug cold capacitor, plug in replacement, reinstall wire retention clip, test.

Very easily removed top shel glass above crisper--removed old rail by lifting up--and place new one in slots provided---simple!! Part was delivered in less than 3 days-------very fast and cheap !!!

I followed the remove and replace instructions in the Part Sect video when I ordered the seal. Pulled out the old seal by hand and installed the new seal. No tools needed, very easy. Took 10 minutes at most.

Turned off power, Removed screw, disconnected wire harness and removed old rail from door, Connected new wire harness and attached new rail to door, replaced screw. Restored power. Done.

Easily pulled out the gaskets off the refrigerator doors and replaced them with the new ones. The installation video was also a big help in the process.

Replacement gasket extremely easy to install. Used hair dryer to soften and straighten out “kinks” in replacement gasket. Pulled old gasket out of groove in refrigerator door. Lined up corners of new gasket and pressed into place with my fingers. Went in exactly as video showed.

Old gasket pulled of easily with no tools. New gasket was placed on floor and heated with blow dryer to straighten. Then installed new gasket by pressing in with my hands. Noticed that the old gasket was hard and not flexible. All was great. Fit perfectly. No frost after a week. Happy.

Popped out with butter knife and unplugged 3 prong connector and reversed with anew switch.

But, unfortunately it got broken again exactly same way as before.
So, I ordered same switch again for 2nd time.

Maytag should recall that Rocker Switch and build with better materials.

I watched the video and it took away my trepidation. I did what it said and it went right in!!

Received gasket. Checked color and size. Because this unit is 33 inches wide one door is 3 inches narrower than the other. Removed shelves from door to provide more room to work. Took 15 seconds to pull out old seal and 1 minute to install the new one. Checked to make sure center sealing flap were on the center side of door. Started in upper corners, worked my way around the perimeter pressing in in with my fingers.
Took longer to R&R and wash shelves than to replace door seal.
VERY EASY