59678282802 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

The repair was pretty simple once we had the new one:

Unpacked new gasket and used a little heat in places to straighten it out.

Removed old gasket
just started at one corner by pulling out of groove and went around the door till all of gasket had been removed from the groove around the door.

Installed new gasket
Inserted into groove on one corner and then went around the door until all of gasket had been inserted.

Closed door and checked that there was good coverage all around the door.

Ordered new fan motor
Got part took fridge apart
Result was the motor was running
The fan blade had come off the motor
Replaced the motor anyway and reinstalled the fan, working well

My son (who does HVAC, but not appliance repair) did some investigating by taking front and back panels off and determined that the evaporator coil was freezing over because the defrost wire was not heating up. He and his girlfriend did some real-time internet searching for diagnostic info because NO control diagram was included with the refrigerator. He determined the problem was most likely the electronic control board. Ordered and installed a new board and the refrigerator is back to working fine. Took about 2 hours to diagnose the problem and 1/4 hour to actually install the control board. Kind of disappointing that this control board failed when the refrigerator was less that 4 years old.

After the original center crisper drawer slide rail broke and and second also looking in deep into your parts catalog I discovered that the refrigerator never came with a crisper frame brace from the store or factory.
Thanks to you , I no longer have the use of the center rail breaking off for now everything is made out of cheaply make plastic by whirlpool.

I first removed the bottom shelf. Then I popped the rail in. It was pretty easy although I did have to use some force to fit it in. Ordering the part and doing it myself was a lot cheaper than calling the repair man.

Googled "intermittent clicking noise" or something similar and consensus was it was either the capacitor or compressor start relay. You-tubed videos on how to replace these. Looked easy. Just unplug them from the condenser and replace. Contacted Part Select and staff said 50% of the the time it was the capacitor, 50% of the time it was the relay. I was in a time crunch so I ordered both and they came in a couple of days. I replaced the capacitor but the clicking noise continued. I replaced the relay and problem solved! Maybe I could have gotten away with just replacing the relay, but I had them both by then and figured with a 10 year old fridge, better replace them both at the same time and be done with the problem. So far, so good.

Very easy-slightly bend the end piece to fit over the peg.

Truth is, this took a couple hours of cursing, but that was due to poor information and no prior experience. I imagine the next one would take 20 minutes. The issues are these: videos tell you to use a putty knife to pry the old switch out. That is harder than it seems because each switch has a plastic spring that pops open to hold the switch on, and you can't access the spring when the switch is installed. So it is important to use the knife on the side of the switch (left or right of spring -- look at the new switch), and back and forth until the switch is worked out. Then it can get worse. The new switch has to plug in electrically before it can be installed mechanically. In my case, with the switch on the fridge wall rather than the top, the outlet for the plug was encased in foam insullation. That gives the appearance that the plug was fixed, immovable, which makes it impossible to plug it in electrically before the switch is in place, and of course once it is in place you can't then plug it in. The problem here was poor instructions. Just scrape out a lot of the foam around the plug and you find that the plug is really not fixed, but attached to reasonably long wires that allow you to plug it in with the switch a couple inches from the wall, and then insert the switch. None of the online instructions tell you this about the wires.

Pieces fit neatly into place; trim snapped firmly under railing and the interior fridge looks like new in time for Thanksgiving, when lots of people will be looking in it!

Let the ice in the freezer melt while installing P trap drain tube

Followed the video on the web site and proceeded in a slow to moderate speed. Didn't rush the job. It went smoothly

Total time 10 minutes. 9 minutes to clear out the food and 1 minute to install the part. Installation was self evident and could have been done blindfolded. Part just snapped in.

Old gasket pulled of easily with no tools. New gasket was placed on floor and heated with blow dryer to straighten. Then installed new gasket by pressing in with my hands. Noticed that the old gasket was hard and not flexible. All was great. Fit perfectly. No frost after a week. Happy.

To repair the problem,I ordered a new gasket. Once I received the gasket, I laid it flat on the floors and hot the blow dryer and blow out the creases in the gasket. I then took off the door by removing the four screws from the door and rest the door on the table. I then removed the old gasket and replaced it with the new one. It took about 15 minutes. My frig. Stop freezing up.

Talking with the service tech and youtube video it was a snap... Saved a service repair and a 25% parts mark up..